Satellite TV

[Chinasrig]

I've searched the forum but have not found any recent posts so this is to find out if anyone has anything new on the subject.

Our Vegas is not wired for satellite (antennae and cable only.) I've been unable to get the internal cable coax to hook up to the satellite receiver so for a temporary fix we are running the coax through the rear window and connecting directly to the receiver and bedroom TV. Which by the way has been replaced with a decent smart TV.

Has anyone figured out a way to utilize the existing wiring in their rig? Thor has a tutorial on their website but it doesn't make a lot of sense.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Chinasrig

[Geterdun]

To use the "Cable" cable you would have to remove it from the power injector/splitter inside the MH and then connect the removed cable to your satellite receiver via a COAX female-to-female connector and additional COAX cable.

[The Gritz Carlton]

I have the Dish Tailgater Pro that I use on the road and at home. I just run the cable through the door in the front and straight to the "Wally", then to the TV up front. I've tried connecting to the cable input on the coach and it doesn't work. The cable input works great for campgrounds that have cable but not with the Dish receiver.

[Bill Johnson]

If your handy drill a hole near the receiver through the wall and put a cable connection on the side

[The Gritz Carlton]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

If your handy drill a hole near the receiver through the wall and put a cable connection on the side

Quite handy but no drilled holes. Great idea, though. I just roll up the cable and place it behind the passenger seat, just under the receiver. Quicker than unscrewing and one less connection point. Dish (Wally) is very sensitive to multiple connections.

[Bill Johnson]

I have the Wally also and I bought a bunch of 90⁰ connectors and straight connectors that are made for satellite, they are blue in the center. I thought about putting a connection under the slide or or behind the tv. I'm tired of running the cable through the window. I need to check my Tailgater because it didn't work at the last place. I need to make sure the tracking device I put inside didn't come loose and jam it up

[JamesLewis]

Satellite ready may refer to the dish mounting backer plate on the roof. If you are using a stand alone unit ,like a tailgater, you can connect through the F type cable connector on the exterior. You will need to locate and modify your antenna booster switch so you can bypass the switch with an A/B selector switch. The dish/receiver signal get messed up when it is routed through the antenna booster switch electronics regardless of the switch being on or off. I can post a rough diagram if that would help.

[Chinasrig]

Please do when you have the time. I've got one schematic but it involves placing another wall plate beside the booster plate and there's not enough room.

Another question, has anyone tried running multiple tv's using an HDMI switch? Like someone posted earlier, satellite does not like additional connections very much.

thanks again

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Chinasrig

Please do when you have the time. I've got one schematic but it involves placing another wall plate beside the booster plate and there's not enough room.

Another question, has anyone tried running multiple tv's using an HDMI switch? Like someone posted earlier, satellite does not like additional connections very much.

thanks again

You don't need another plate Just drill a 5/16" hole in the lower part of the present plate and install a RG6 cable connector. The lower part of the control plate is not used.

Splitters are used all the time in sat RG6 coax, they just have to be able to pass DC current which is blocked by the cable only hookups. I use DirecTVs "Green label" splitters. Solid Signal has them.

[taylorbob1]

I installed a Winegard Trav’ler for DISHnet on my ‘17 Vegas roof.
Used a Winegard backing plate for added stability.
The unit weighs over 40#.

Regarding the OP…I opted to run the cable thru the existing roof entry point for the standard TV antenna. Then routed into the upper cabinet where my Wally (or Hopper3) is stored.
All three TVs are cabled from the Wally via HDMI splitter.
So all three TVs view the same channel (at the same time if desired)
Or, each TV can view a DVD or streaming independently.

Here’s a photo of the roof.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by JamesLewis

Satellite ready may refer to the dish mounting backer plate on the roof. If you are using a stand alone unit ,like a tailgater, you can connect through the F type cable connector on the exterior. You will need to locate and modify your antenna booster switch so you can bypass the switch with an A/B selector switch. The dish/receiver signal get messed up when it is routed through the antenna booster switch electronics regardless of the switch being on or off. I can post a rough diagram if that would help.

I have 4 tv's in my motorhome and there is no way a signal can go through all those spliters, it needs to be a direct line from the tailgater to the Wally, I even contacted Thor and they said it wouldn't work

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I have 4 tv's in my motorhome and there is no way a signal can go through all those spliters, it needs to be a direct line from the tailgater to the Wally, I even contacted Thor and they said it wouldn't work

In a sat splitter there IS a direct line to the LNB in the sat antenna. It carries DC from 12 to 24 volts (depending the LNB and receiver set) and the control signals for the Low Noise Block down converter (LNB) as well as power to move the dish (if it is a carry-out antenna). RG-6 coax is incapable of carrying the Ku sat frequencies, so they are down-converter into a much lower block of frequencies. Your receiver selects the block of frequencies to be used by the LNB. Your receiver decodes, decompresses and amplifies the digital signals and puts them back on the coax in a different frequency block suitable for a digital TV receiver. The typical receiver signal strength can be split 5 ways before the receiver's output TV signal is degraded sufficiently to cause problems. In fact this is the system used by most sat systems military, public and private. The sat reception was developed in the 1960s and it is still the only one used commercially.
Just for the uninitiated - DirecTV HS-17 receiver paired with the 3B2RB LNB can receive all the signals from the 9 DirecTV sats in three galaxies, simultaneously. The LNB is capable of down-converting 24 different different channels simultaneously. The receiver has 7 Ka/Ku HDTV frequency receivers and two reverse band receivers (RB) for UHTV (4K); so with splitters, 8 additional receivers with 16 additional TV sets can all watch different TV programs from the same antenna. All this info is on the same RG-6 coax or if you have 4 smart TVs, they can receive 4 of the channels wireless. It also does steaming and can record all on a 2T hard disk.

[JamesLewis]

Here is a rough schematic of how I bypassed the antenna power switch and it works great. You say you didn't have space to put another plate in the area where your current antenna plate is. Where is it located? Mine is inside a cabinet over the entry way and just above and back of the passenger seat. The wall it is mounted on is hollow with about a 2" space. There is no box, the plate is mounted directly to the panel with wood screws. So the 2" space allows enough room for routing the coax to the switch and TV etc. I opened and disconnected the coax from the antenna power switch and connected it to the A/B switch. From the A/B switch "B" terminal connected an 8" RG6 coax jumper cable to the cable-in terminal on the antenna power switch. I connected a RG6 coax cable from the A/B switch "A" terminal directly to the satellite receiver. When I want to watch programming off the satellite dish I press "A" on the A/B switch. If I want to watch park cable I press the "B" button. For over-the-air I press the "B" button and the "on" antenna button on the antenna power switch. The A/B switch I used is a Steren Network Switch with high isolation from Amazon for $18. I made my 8" RG6 jumper but you can find a similar one from Amazon. Also, a HDMI splitter from the receiver to 2 TVs shouldn't be a problem. but the programming will be the same on both TVs.