Backing up rig using toad

[RV Pirate]

Has anyone ever tried this? Might make life a lot easier at the gas pumps if you could use the toad to back up 15 or 20 feet..

Yeah , yeah I know, plan your stops. We all know that feces occurs and it's nice to have a "B plan".

Just wondering what y'all think [emoji848]

Thanks[emoji3517]

[paulwadley]

Remember that your coach is 3 to 4 times the weight of your toad and could cause damage to the towing system you are using on the toad. You might run into trouble pulling the coach backwards with your toad attached.

Paul

[EA37TS]

I wouldn’t dream of doing something like that, however, you can do anything your wallet can afford.

[lwmcguir]

A lot more downside issues than upside gain

[GTM41261]

Interesting idea. You may want to try in a parking lot to see how it does. I would imagine on flat ground it would work. Could possibly use it to help get unstuck as sometimes it does not take much. Just keep in mind depending on the toad how hard you want to push the drive train.

[16ACE27]

So exactly what are you trying to accomplish?

You can't back up a toad due to the steering wheels on the toad reacting to reverse caster and NOT following the correct path.

Using the toad's power train to provide the mode of force isn't a solution.

Manually steering the toad may work if you can coordinate the steering with the swing of the rear of the MH IF you can figure out the angles and physics to be successful.

Expecting the MH to follow the toad pulling it is completely unrealistic due to the weight differences as well as the MH's front wheels not following the desired track due to the reverse caster issue there.

[ducksface]

Straight(ish)line,
No problem.
I do it all the time with trailers.
Trailers are easier
But

Talent reigns.

I'd do it in a heartbeat to move straight backwards for an rv length or three.

[Elite Washington]

Besides what was already mentioned, I don’t get the time save? Or how that would make it easier? You still have to do whatever procedure is needed to get your toad into gear to be able to move the Motorhome. Besides the effort to make sure you back up exactly perfect to not damage anything. just in an extra effort to save a couple of mins to unhook. Kind of tripping over a dollar to save a dime. What’s 10 extra mins or so in the grand scheme of a 500 mile trip.

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by ducksface

Straight(ish)line,
No problem.
I do it all the time with trailers.
Trailers are easier
But

Talent reigns.

I'd do it in a heartbeat to move straight backwards for an rv length or three.

I want to see you using a trailer as the power source to pull the Motorhome backwards.

The OP wants to use the TOAD to pull the Motorhome backwards.

[ducksface]

You've overshot the black tank dump, you're setting up, the toad is coming off any way and you don't want to make the half hour circle around the veal-pen type rv park to take a second try.

Or

The immovable picnic table is blocking your man door and you're pulled all the way forward in the space.

The goof in front of you at the pumps locked his rv and went inside the store. It's been 20 minutes and you need to back up three feet to get around his locked rv sitting in front of the rv pump.

[Bob Denman]

Let us know how it works out for you...Take a video!

[ducksface]

Tractor.
Trailer hooked to front bucket.
Tractor powered, Trailer not.
All moving backwards.
Monthly, sometimes for a mile.
More often push the trailer backwards hooked to the front of the tractor.
easier than a towed.

I've also backed up my expeditionary 6,000lb vehicle with my 1,200lb tow'd sand buggy doing the pulling backwards with the tow bar.

I've also pulled a 4x4 with a trailer attached by hooking to the back of that trailer, pulling both of them backwards.

What needs done, needs done.

Except for the delicacy/locking of some tow bars, there isn't a reason in the world to not at least attempt it if it needs attempted.

Salt river Canyon headed south.
On the first pullout as you're headed back up, 69 Camaro convertible, powerglide with drum manual brakes, crapped out the brakes while towing my 67 rs ss big block Camaro with a tow bar. Spousal unit got it stopped on the gravel just as the front tires hit the non bermed edge of the drop off. She did this by being smart enough to jackknife the two cars.
I then used the 67 to pull the 69 backwards 100ft distance off the edge using the unattachable tow bar. (Left reat quarter on the convertible, left front fender on the 67 damaged)


One of the first thing everyone does here is doubt ability of things they haven't tried, yet immediately tells advanced airconditioner electrical theory to someone who has never held a screwdriver before.

Edit:
My first chore today was to put this trailer back in its home.
New wiring, a power Jack added...then sat there for a week while I thought of a stopping spot for mods on it.
I had to pull it backwards(forward) before I could push it forward(backwards). The shop patio is a dead-end.

That's a 3,000lb Tommy lift hanging off the rear of that 7x10(?) trailer.

[RV Pirate]

The original idea is at the gas pump after you're fueled up and you have to backup a bit to swing out. I'm talking about a flat straight pull, no turning or geometry involved here. 37' Challenger with fuel door in the rear means you're 30' in front of the pumps. A lot of places do not have enough room to swing out , unless you plan on taking out the pumps with your left rear quarter.

What I had in mind is unhooking the brake controller, hopping in the toad and "pulling" the rv backwards with someone driving both vehicles, the RV in reverse, just along for the ride. There would be almost no load on the tow bar. After getting away from the pumps, pull on the side , reattach the brake controller and off you go. Saves totally unhooking and rehooking everything...Guess I assumed y'all knew what I meant.

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by RV Pirate

The original idea is at the gas pump after you're fueled up and you have to backup a bit to swing out. I'm talking about a flat straight pull, no turning or geometry involved here. 37' Challenger with fuel door in the rear means you're 30' in front of the pumps. A lot of places do not have enough room to swing out , unless you plan on taking out the pumps with your left rear quarter...

It was a fair assumption.
I wouldn't hesitate. It's a fine tool to have in your Arsenal.

[RV Pirate]

Originally Posted by GTM41261

Interesting idea. You may want to try in a parking lot to see how it does. I would imagine on flat ground it would work. Could possibly use it to help get unstuck as sometimes it does not take much. Just keep in mind depending on the toad how hard you want to push the drive train.

I wasn't planning on dragging our Challenger backwards with our jeep. Would have drivers in toad and rv, just guide back a few feet..not tractor pulling here. lol

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by RV Pirate

The original idea is at the gas pump after you're fueled up and you have to backup a bit to swing out. I'm talking about a flat straight pull, no turning or geometry involved here.

If it's all lined up straight then just back it up slowly with the RV. Have someone hold the toad steering wheel if necessary (usually not necessary for 10 feet or so in a straight line). No advantage to cranking up the TOAD.

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

If it's all lined up straight then just back it up slowly with the RV. Have someone hold the toad steering wheel if necessary (usually not necessary for 10 feet or so in a straight line). No advantage to cranking up the TOAD.

This is a better solutiion since there are two of you.

[lwmcguir]

I don't hesitate at all to back up 3-4 feet to enable a wide swing out. Rear Camera on and watching the mirrors

With the 60º wheel cut I have to be careful of where the F150 or end of the Tuscany is going to wind up.

Given that I try to stay with outside lanes when fueling at a Mom and Pops or typical Quick Shop

Farm type stations when available are my first choice as I prefer Cenex Diesel

Diesel dropped on the last fill up to 5.34 still easy to hit 500 bucks on a top off

[Chance]

Tow bar will see much higher front-to-back forces during normal driving than it takes to roll a motorhome on fairly level pavement or concrete. That shouldn’t be an issue. When motorhome pulls toad up a 10% grade, tow bar tension loads are much higher than rolling resistance of MH at gas pump. Likewise, compression load backing up is no worse than during heavy braking without toad brakes. In any case tow bar must be designed for these loads which could exceed +/- 2,000 pounds, far more than what it takes to push or pull a MH on level hard surface.

The real “load/stress” issue is when toad front wheels want to go in one direction and motorhome hitch in another. These lateral forces should be very similar whether motorhome pushes toad back, or toad pulls motorhome backwards. I see it as a distinction without a (significant) difference.

For what it’s worth, I once saw a large motorhome push backwards a large toad while dragging front wheels turned all the way in opposite direction. Not too bright but he then pulled forward and left campground.

And as I mentioned a while back in a different thread, when I was young I often backed my flat-towed dune buggy just like it was a trailer. The front end was so light that it didn’t hurt anything to let front tires skid across pavement.

To be clear, I wouldn’t back up a car at all, particularly a front wheel drive car or SUV.

[Ottosails]

Check this out - Roadmaster claims to have a steering stabilizer for the towed vehicle that will allow backing up... (Exact Center Steering Stabilizer)

I have no experience with it but it sure looks like it works in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx_Kz7FjqWY

Go to 1:08 where they back up a Jeep wrangler around a corner.