caulking shower pan

[ghof]

The pan has a lip on three sides about 1 inch high that the wall panels overlap. Water doesn't have the capillary ability to climb this, but water can flow under the wall panel on top of the pan to the front where there is no lip. Hope this helps explain.

[sforl]

ghof
This is my first experience with this type shower surround! Thank you for describing its design!
I do believe mine is not fitting as tightly as perhaps it was designed! There are some fairly large gaps along the edges!
Not sure how to approach the problem! I'm leaving for a 3 month trip first of August and my dealer says they will not be able to get to it within that time period!
In the meantime I'm going to try to think of a temporary fix!
Thanks for everyone's input!

[ghof]

Originally Posted by sforl

ghof
This is my first experience with this type shower surround! Thank you for describing its design!
I do believe mine is not fitting as tightly as perhaps it was designed! There are some fairly large gaps along the edges!
Not sure how to approach the problem! I'm leaving for a 3 month trip first of August and my dealer says they will not be able to get to it within that time period!
In the meantime I'm going to try to think of a temporary fix!
Thanks for everyone's input!

For a temp fix I might try some of the tape as seen on tv

[ghof]

Oct 10, 2017 the shower developed another leak in less than 4 months. The 5200 series sealant did not work. I'll try another plan. PITA!

[sky_blue]

About once a week I spray the pan/wall space with bleach to control the mold. I have never experienced any leaking.

I would not seal it. There is a lot of motion in the RV. If you seal that joint with 5200, something else will have to absorb that motion and possible break.

[ghof]

It's not the joints where the stiles meet the bottom rail. The water is under the bottom rail that I bedded with 5200, I should have used the 4000 series as it flexes more. When I say leaks I mean two towels type leak! I had removed the entire frame and sealed and bedded it. I am going to remove the frame again and put a new bottom rail in of 1x1 aluminum bedded and screwed to the base the reattach the frame.

[axis earl]

Originally Posted by sforl

I just got back from a 4 night trip and after showering I found water leaking into the hallway on my Axis 25.2.
When I removed the access panel in the bath, I found that the p- trap was not properly tightened. After tightening it, I poured water into the shower and didn't see any more leaks.
While inspecting the shower for other potential leak sources, I did notice that there is no caulking at the bottom of the shower where the wall surround connects to the shower pan.
Should this be caulked or is it designed to prevent water from entering this seam?
Thanks

Sforl,
Curious as to the year of your coach.... our Axis just started experiencing the same problem with the shower. Looks like the same problem and fix as you had.

[rfd2117]

I tried everything I could to stop a leaking shower on a new class c 26b and ended up caulking around the bottom of the surround. I first just did the bottom door rail and it still leaked so then I did all around the surround base. All I could assume was that it was installed on a late Friday afternoon and just slapped in place not paying attention to how it was supposed to sit or be attached. The 1inch lip to me is not enough, water is funny it WILL find a way to leak if anything is not installed completely correct. Not a drop anywhere since doing that and looks good to.

[ghof]

I removed the entire frame again. I epoxy puttied the ends of the bottom track then put 3m water proof two sided tape on the bottom piece and set it in place. I then installed the side pieces into a bedding of caulk on each end and filled the ends with a further amount of caulk. I then caulked the entire frame. The bottom piece leaked at each end ,there is a 1/8 gap on each end that needed to be filled because water flowed on top of the bottom track right to the ends and onto the floor.


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[Forest Grump]

Originally Posted by rfd2117

I tried everything I could to stop a leaking shower on a new class c 26b and ended up caulking around the bottom of the surround. I first just did the bottom door rail and it still leaked so then I did all around the surround base. All I could assume was that it was installed on a late Friday afternoon and just slapped in place not paying attention to how it was supposed to sit or be attached. The 1inch lip to me is not enough, water is funny it WILL find a way to leak if anything is not installed completely correct. Not a drop anywhere since doing that and looks good to.

Now that it is sealed let the mold and dry rot begin!

[Laco]

I wonder if some sort of rubber or silicone overlay, that is not sealed, but covers and directs water into the pan might work? That would still allow what may be required air flow to prevent mold and mildew to still happen, but would not allow water into that seam space.

[ghof]

In my miramar the under side of the shower pan is open to the electrical plumbing tunnel / raceway and should provide a decent air flow to avoid the mold or rot you think will happen by sealing the pan to the side walls. THAT BEING SAID the seam at the bottom normally does not need sealing. If you decide to seal this add air vents.

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[Forest Grump]

The less perfect the man made seals the more probable that capillary action could occur. I would not seal.

[ghof]

Forest I see your point. Until I solve the leak in my miramar I'll seal the entire pan. I think the bad seal / leak on mine is the front Frame at the end joints not the 1 inch lip.

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[rfd2117]

Originally Posted by Forest Grump

Now that it is sealed let the mold and dry rot begin!

I respectively agree to disagree, the underside oof the shower pan and wall cavity is vented and has only seen a small amount of water and has never been more than a couple of minutes before I opened the access panel and cleaned up with a small towel and fan to completely drive out.

[Forest Grump]

It only takes a small amount of water, I.e. dry rot.

[Forest Grump]

It only takes a small amount of water, i.e. dry rot.

[Forest Grump]

Dry rot!

[penguin]

Originally Posted by Forest Grump

It should not be caulked by engineering design. Calk it and learn about dry rot and mold.

Don't have a lot of confidence in engineers, very smart people but no common sense or real world experience. I caulked mine. Just my 2 cents.

[ghof]

Penguin, you are spot on about engineers. But the shower pan problem is due to the bean counters. Fix it your way if that is what you decide but ventilate and make an inspection port.

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