Drain plug in water heater

[devnul@timmade.com]

I have the same problem in my new, to me, 2018 26HE. No socket can get in there and I actually bought a cheap slip joint plier to remove it. Problem is you can only get an 1/8 turn each time. I agree that a PEX setup, with ball valve, is in order. Don't mix metals, they don't play well together.
Tim

[Subdev10]

I have an ‘08 34B, but the same silly design as yours, so I know your grazed knuckle pain. I have used a large pair of slip-joint pliers for many years now so the nylon edges are wearing down. I like the idea of adding some pex and some shut-off fittings.

[Travelin' Texans]

Originally Posted by IDguy

That doesn’t work if you have corrosion rod. Although it would be simple to put a separate drain on the tank bottom.

There are 2 brands of water heaters Atwood & Suburban.
Atwood is the one with the complaints mentioned in this post with no anode rod needed.
The Suburban has an anode rod that must be inspected occasionally & easily removed to drain the tank.

[MLP]

It better be an Atwood, otherwise without an anode rod in it, he will be replacing it in about two years of age. Don't ask me why I know.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Brakeman48

Need to vent. Just finished winterizing my 2016 Hurricane 35C.
I really like to meet with the engineer that decided the best place for the water heater nylon drain plug was directly behind the propane gas piping.
PS: In a dark alley. There will be blood but most of that from the cuts on my hand from the exhaust flanges. 🤬🤬🤬

6 point socket, universal joint, ratchet. works every time.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by devnul@timmade.com

I have the same problem in my new, to me, 2018 26HE. No socket can get in there and I actually bought a cheap slip joint plier to remove it. Problem is you can only get an 1/8 turn each time. I agree that a PEX setup, with ball valve, is in order. Don't mix metals, they don't play well together.
Tim

that is why they make universal joints.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by Mrfixitman

I got a threaded pipe and shut-off valve for plumbing and installed that so no tools, just turn the valve by hand, no drip and easy!

Can you post a picture? We love pictures!

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Mrfixitman

I got a threaded pipe and shut-off valve for plumbing and installed that so no tools, just turn the valve by hand, no drip and easy!

Ask a plumber about that setup. Measure from the bottom of that valve to the bottom of the tank. That's how much sludge and crud you are leaving in the tank.

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by cavie

Ask a plumber about that setup. Measure from the bottom of that valve to the bottom of the tank. That's how much sludge and crud you are leaving in the tank.

So any plumbers onboard to answer this?

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by cavie

Ask a plumber about that setup. Measure from the bottom of that valve to the bottom of the tank. That's how much sludge and crud you are leaving in the tank.

When I winterize mine, before bypassing the hot water tank, I leave the plug out and blast water through it to try to wash that crud out. I can theorize (starting to sound like Duckie) that with a turn and a valve it wouldn’t flush through as forcefully. Mine doesn’t have enough space to run a pipe and an elbow out from the drain. Less than an inch. Which is why I would love to see a picture of the pex setup.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

When I winterize mine, before bypassing the hot water tank, I leave the plug out and blast water through it to try to wash that crud out. I can theorize (starting to sound like Duckie) that with a turn and a valve it wouldn’t flush through as forcefully. Mine doesn’t have enough space to run a pipe and an elbow out from the drain. Less than an inch. Which is why I would love to see a picture of the pex setup.

You can buy a small nozzle for that specific purpose. It’s about a foot long and curved at the tip so that you can blast the sediment out. I don’t remember what they cost as I’ve had mine for decades but it can’t be much more than a few dollars.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by cavie

6 point socket, universal joint, ratchet. works every time.

No it doesn’t. Worked great on my last several coaches but my current Atwood is the design that totally is blocked by the gas line. It’s a silly design for sure.

[knucklehead]

Originally Posted by RCouch

I finally pulled mine out and replace it with a couple fittings, a very short piece of PEX hose, and a small ball valve. Works great.

Great idea man---I'm gonna do THAT!!!!!

[kbatschke@gmail.com]

Mine (Chateau 28Z) was also a real pain to get out. That, and whoever installed the nylon drain plug absolutely bunged up the corners, so much so that I couldn't get a socket on it. I'm going to need to track down a new one.

[Brakeman48]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

No it doesn’t. Worked great on my last several coaches but my current Atwood is the design that totally is blocked by the gas line. It’s a silly design for sure.

Totally agree and was my point in the first post. Then the experts chime in with ratchets, extensions, deep sockets, etc. The point was Atwood has a very bad design. But, we did receive SOME good input especially the one using PEX. Hopefully we will see pictures of that modification.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Brakeman48

Totally agree and was my point in the first post. Then the experts chime in with ratchets, extensions, deep sockets, etc. The point was Atwood has a very bad design. But, we did receive SOME good input especially the one using PEX. Hopefully we will see pictures of that modification.

Yes I’d consider doing a mod like that but then it would be difficult to flush out the sediment with the special sprayer that works so well. I get quite a bit of deposits out at year end. The cheap stamped offset wrench works pretty well.

[BandG]

My gas line is directly in front of the plug on my unit too. After scraping knuckles & butchering a few nylon plugs, I ordered a 15/16 Flex Head Ratchet Wrench from Home Depot.

It cost $30 or so, but since I to take my plug out to winterize & then a few times again in the spring to clear all the calcium deposits with white vinegar, it was worth it to me.

It works like a charm & no more cuts!

[MJC62]

The cuts, the blood and the cussing are all part of RV maintenance. If they made it easy nobody would be paying the dealer the buck and a half to winterize their RV anymore!

[cavie]

Originally Posted by OldWEB

So any plumbers onboard to answer this?

nice picture but all those fittings have been on the flat end of my heaters. Not on the round sides.

[MaceMan]

First time I used an open/box end wrench. Not easy as the stroke you can get is 30° of turn. Last two times I have a 3/8th air ratchet I am able to work in there. 1 quick comes right out. Hand start it and zip! It's right back in.