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Old 12-22-2021, 01:29 AM   #21
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Model: Citation
State: Texas
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THOR #8139
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
2X12's... or 2X10's. Just screw 4 or 5 of them together with the incline already cut on each board. Just slide them out of the way when not in use. Cheap but strong option. 5 of them would give you a 7.5" X 10.5" block...cut lengthwise as long as you need for whatever angle you cut as the ramp.
On our way to WaffleHouse we pass a 1' high ramp made out of what looks like this.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in...ber/1000054235

Its holding up really well for 3+ years.

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Old 12-22-2021, 01:51 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by inlyzbldcj View Post
Tried that Bob.....use exactly those boards and they split in just over a month so total waste of money.
I used a 2 x 12 to make wood blocks for the levelers when needed. I knew they would split so I used these to keep them together:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Str...ing/1002702950



! in the center on one side, 2 torwards the edges on the other side. 2 years later they're still in one piece.
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Old 12-22-2021, 04:58 AM   #23
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You can buy a poop load of 2x12 planks for the grand it costs to pour more concrete.
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Old 12-22-2021, 04:38 PM   #24
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Here's a worthy honorable mention:
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=17
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Old 12-25-2021, 07:27 PM   #25
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ramps

Here is a set of 8/5 in Harbor Freight ramps. https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

Here is a set of 9in Harbor Freight set of ramps https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-...set-63250.html

If you absolutely need 12 in, then you could stack one or two 2x10s under them.

JC
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Old 12-25-2021, 07:43 PM   #26
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2x6 or 2 X 12 stack up
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Old 12-25-2021, 11:14 PM   #27
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Not easy going hard-core on a neighbor and friend. However, for him to charge another $1,000 to repair his shoddy work seems excessive.
I agree with those suggesting 2" x 12"s. Lowes is selling Severe weather, pressure treated 2" x 12" x 12' for less than $30.
I would also suggest using a high grade outdoor adhesive between layers. That should help distribute the weight more evenly.
I recently had my pad poured and was fortunate that is only a half-bubble off.
Good luck.
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Old 12-25-2021, 11:56 PM   #28
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A situation like this can happen even with a contract job. Hard lesson learned with "hiring" friends and neighbors... it can, and often does turn sour. Just like selling a car to a friend... think twice about how important that friendship is.
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:00 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by inlyzbldcj View Post
I am looking for some advice and hopefully guidance on where I can purchase some good strong ramps around 10" high to park the front tires of my Thor Hurricane 34J on to level it out when it is parked on the pad I had built for it. I was hoping it would have been done more level but when it was all done and $3800 bucks later it is still at about an 8% down grade. I want to park it level so there is no stress on any of the components or the residential refrigerator. I did build some steps with 2" thick and 10" wide lumber but it just split after about 3 months parking it on that. I am hoping that there is someone out there that can guide me to some good strong ramps. All I can find is those little yellow ones that raise it 4" which it is on right now. Any ideas?
Lumber is cheap and not that heavy. I'd just use 2x10 or 12" boards. You could drill pilot holes in one board then put screws to match the holes and stack like Lego's?
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Old 12-26-2021, 02:55 AM   #30
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There are many different grades and types of wood. Cheap pine will split if you look at it the wrong way. Quality lumber should stand up very well to the weight of even the heaviest motorhome, especially if properly braced.
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Old 12-26-2021, 03:38 AM   #31
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There are many different grades and types of wood. Cheap pine will split if you look at it the wrong way. Quality lumber should stand up very well to the weight of even the heaviest motorhome, especially if properly braced.
Yep; wood holds up ships in drydock:

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Old 12-26-2021, 04:05 PM   #32
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I know the OP says a solution was found, but in case anyone runs across this in the future, here’s what I did in case it gives someone an idea.

Our driveway has about an 8” slope over our coach’s 262” wheelbase on the passenger side, which is about 3% and about 1-2” side to side. Back when we had a trailer, that wasn’t too bad as we just put some blocks under the low side wheels and raised the tongue sufficiently to keep it level. Having a motorhome changed things quite a bit as I now had about 8000lbs of a motorhome front end to deal with supporting.

This is what I wound up doing:


Starting at the bottom, what you’re seeing is one 16x16 1” thick rubber “Hoss Pad” and two 12x12” ones. These provide anti-skid as well as about 1” height. On top is about one and a half 2”x10”x10’ pressure treated boards. The green bits are probably not necessary any longer and were left over from the first iteration of this, just cut a 3/4” chamfer to the top ends of the boards and use some solid rubber chocks instead. I then cut a 2” (?) hardwood closet pole I had sitting around so it would be about 3/4” shorter than the stack, drilled a hole from top to bottom about 6” in from the end of the shortest board, but not quite all the way through the bottom one (maybe 1/2”), and finish the hole with a 3/4” bit to allow it to drain. Assemble the stack, insert the closet poles in the holes which ensures the stack says together when driving up onto it, but still allow it to be easily disassembled if necessary. The only tools necessary would be a circular or miter saw, and a drill with a 2” and 3/4” Forstner bit.

The other side is exactly the same, but needed to be raised a little more so I added another 12x12” hoss pad to the top of the stack to raise it another inch.

Our tire covers are a little big and cover the top two boards, so the whole top of the stack stays pretty dry. The air underneath helps dry the lower boards a little faster after it rains. The larger surface area helps as well since our driveway was never really built with a 24000lb vehicle in mind.

The whole thing is very stable with the motorhome on top of it. Because of the pads and the way the tire backs onto the front (left) one , it doesn’t budge at all when backing onto it. Figuring out where to set it up on the driveway so I could back onto it and be right where I wanted took a few attempts, but you see the white mark to help me center the stack appropriately. Centering on side-to-side on the tire varies a little bit, so I just make sure it’s aligned with the tire and sight down the cargo door panel to ensure it’s even along the length.

The wood stack stays home since it’s very heavy and pretty big, but the rubber pads and rubber chocks (mentioned, but not shown) travel with us.
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Old 01-01-2022, 03:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inlyzbldcj View Post
I am looking for some advice and hopefully guidance on where I can purchase some good strong ramps around 10" high to park the front tires of my Thor Hurricane 34J on to level it out when it is parked on the pad I had built for it. I was hoping it would have been done more level but when it was all done and $3800 bucks later it is still at about an 8% down grade. I want to park it level so there is no stress on any of the components or the residential refrigerator. I did build some steps with 2" thick and 10" wide lumber but it just split after about 3 months parking it on that. I am hoping that there is someone out there that can guide me to some good strong ramps. All I can find is those little yellow ones that raise it 4" which it is on right now. Any ideas?
Unless you buy the made for heavy truck/RV ramps they will probably break. I had a class C Jayco and I had two sets of ramps that were rated above the weight of the front of the Motorhome and destroyed both sets. They make service ramps for heavy trucks for right around 1,000 dollars and you would never need to worry
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Old 01-01-2022, 03:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDustyGeek View Post
I know the OP says a solution was found, but in case anyone runs across this in the future, here’s what I did in case it gives someone an idea.

Our driveway has about an 8” slope over our coach’s 262” wheelbase on the passenger side, which is about 3% and about 1-2” side to side. Back when we had a trailer, that wasn’t too bad as we just put some blocks under the low side wheels and raised the tongue sufficiently to keep it level. Having a motorhome changed things quite a bit as I now had about 8000lbs of a motorhome front end to deal with supporting.

This is what I wound up doing:


Starting at the bottom, what you’re seeing is one 16x16 1” thick rubber “Hoss Pad” and two 12x12” ones. These provide anti-skid as well as about 1” height. On top is about one and a half 2”x10”x10’ pressure treated boards. The green bits are probably not necessary any longer and were left over from the first iteration of this, just cut a 3/4” chamfer to the top ends of the boards and use some solid rubber chocks instead. I then cut a 2” (?) hardwood closet pole I had sitting around so it would be about 3/4” shorter than the stack, drilled a hole from top to bottom about 6” in from the end of the shortest board, but not quite all the way through the bottom one (maybe 1/2”), and finish the hole with a 3/4” bit to allow it to drain. Assemble the stack, insert the closet poles in the holes which ensures the stack says together when driving up onto it, but still allow it to be easily disassembled if necessary. The only tools necessary would be a circular or miter saw, and a drill with a 2” and 3/4” Forstner bit.

The other side is exactly the same, but needed to be raised a little more so I added another 12x12” hoss pad to the top of the stack to raise it another inch.

Our tire covers are a little big and cover the top two boards, so the whole top of the stack stays pretty dry. The air underneath helps dry the lower boards a little faster after it rains. The larger surface area helps as well since our driveway was never really built with a 24000lb vehicle in mind.

The whole thing is very stable with the motorhome on top of it. Because of the pads and the way the tire backs onto the front (left) one , it doesn’t budge at all when backing onto it. Figuring out where to set it up on the driveway so I could back onto it and be right where I wanted took a few attempts, but you see the white mark to help me center the stack appropriately. Centering on side-to-side on the tire varies a little bit, so I just make sure it’s aligned with the tire and sight down the cargo door panel to ensure it’s even along the length.

The wood stack stays home since it’s very heavy and pretty big, but the rubber pads and rubber chocks (mentioned, but not shown) travel with us.
Pretty crafty! That's similar to the last iteration I tried before going to hydraulic levelers ($$$ ). The wood system works GREAT at home (as was the OP's use case). But I just didn't have the storage room for all leveling scenarios on the road.
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Old 01-01-2022, 04:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Pretty crafty! That's similar to the last iteration I tried before going to hydraulic levelers ($$$ ). The wood system works GREAT at home (as was the OP's use case). But I just didn't have the storage room for all leveling scenarios on the road.
Looks great, I tried everything on my Jayco, blocks, ramps. I finally told the wife we would take a trip to Iowa and have Automatic Leveling Jacks installed because every camp site and the driveway at home I would need to level it. She said she hated the bedroom because she couldn't walk around the bed and make it, so we traded it in on the Thor she got her walk around king bed with tables and I got my jacks. She is very happy with this one and doesn't mind driving it but she hated the Jayco and wouldn't drive it
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