Driveway outlet (GFCI) trips

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by VJRocky

Hi to all. So today I revisited my problem with the GFCI tripping. With SP on I checked every outlet with a circuit tester. All tested good. Then, to be redundant, I disconnected SP and used an Ohm meter to check for continuity on every outlet. Again, all checked out OK. I have one GFCI outlet in the stair well that I believe feeds all outlets ( not entirely sure about that and have not confirmed). As far as I can tell everything checks out OK. I haven't been able to speak to the service mechanic that changed my batteries as of yet. Its on my list. I also removed a recliner to get at an outlet on the floor that it plugs into. No issues there either. I can turn on every breaker except the converter without the outlet tripping. That includes the AC units (2). As soon as I turn on either the converter or one of the AC units the outlet trips. Otherwise all other breakers for the rest of the MH have no effect on the outlet. What is common to the AC's and the converter?

The "in common" thing is 12 VDC:
From the converter/DC Buss to the batteries
From the DC Buss/batteries to the furnace ==> to the thermostat ==> to the A/C units as control power to turn the A/C fan and compressors on.

The negative of the 12 VDC system is tied to the MH frame.
The ground of the 120 VAC system is tied to the MH frame.
The neutral of the 120 VAC system should NOT be tied to the MH frame anywhere except for the generator output which doesn't apply if the generator is not being used.

That's why I had you remove the negative post from the house batteries and see if that made a difference. You said it did not.

Maybe pull the furnace fuse (marked Appliances in most cases) and see if the Converter still trips the GFCI.

If so, pull the 2 large reverse polarity fuses on the DC Buss and see if the converter still trips the GFCI. If so, I think you have a problem in the converter.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Trophy1200

Not sensitive at all and yes I’m wearing my big boy pants.

I just don’t see the need for your condescending replies to members’ posts where you feel the need to enlarge the font size, change the font colour and post a gif or meme.

It would have been a lot less effort if you just said that the OP had already done what I suggested, or better yet, say nothing and let the OP respond.

I’m not surprised that new members don’t come back to their posts if a 6,000 plus post member is constantly making posts like yours. Especially from a “site team” member.

We all try to help each other if able but belittling others efforts is not the way to do it.

Remember to err is human, to forgive divine.

I'm not "belittling your efforts". Just pointing out in a light hearted way that your suggestion was already covered in the thread. Nothing confuses a thread more than the same recommendations over and over again from people who don't bother reading the thread before posting. That does NOT help the OP with their problem.

Any sarcasm was in your posts, not mine.

No need for you to reply and clutter up this thread even more.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by VJRocky

Hi to all. So today I revisited my problem with the GFCI tripping. With SP on I checked every outlet with a circuit tester. All tested good. Then, to be redundant, I disconnected SP and used an Ohm meter to check for continuity on every outlet. Again, all checked out OK. I have one GFCI outlet in the stair well that I believe feeds all outlets ( not entirely sure about that and have not confirmed). As far as I can tell everything checks out OK. I haven't been able to speak to the service mechanic that changed my batteries as of yet. Its on my list. I also removed a recliner to get at an outlet on the floor that it plugs into. No issues there either. I can turn on every breaker except the converter without the outlet tripping. That includes the AC units (2). As soon as I turn on either the converter or one of the AC units the outlet trips. Otherwise all other breakers for the rest of the MH have no effect on the outlet. What is common to the AC's and the converter?

I'm not surprised the A/C's trip the GFCI. Items that produce an inductive load are problematic for a GFCI circuit and will often trip them.

Theoretically speaking, the Converter / Charger should probably not trip it. Did you check the outlet your Converter is plugged into on the back of your Power Distirbution Center?

[VJRocky]

Thanks, I will investigate that next. I appreciate all your help. I have a trip the the NYS Fair coming up next month. I would like to get a handle on this before hand.

[VJRocky]

No, I did not. I will check that also next time around. Thank you

[VJRocky]

Hi All TGIF. It's a sunny great day on Long Island, too nice to be working on my RV but I have to keep at it. Rather than be redundant I will just say I have investigated all the advice from 16ACE27 and Judge. Thank you for that and forgive me if I have forgotten anyone. Today I went through the troubleshooting guide from the manufacture of the WFCO 9855 converter. Everything check out OK. The voltage output was on the low side but within limits. I ran another "process of elimination" test on the system. I shut all AC breakers except for the main and converter. Then I plugged in at the driveway which tripped the outlet immediately. Then I repeated the process but with the converter breaker off. I plugged in at the driveway which DID NOT trip the outlet. Then I turned on the converter breaker. It came on and stayed on. I turned on all other breakers including AC units. No issues, however as soon as I turn on one the AC units the outlet tripped. I ran the generator next and turned everything on. No issues there either. So for now I am at a dead end.

[Jimbo56]

In an earlier post you said everything worked when plugged into a non gfci receptacle. If it was me, I’d get me a plain Jane receptacle, switch it out for the gfci, and see if that solves your problem. I also wonder what other receptacles are downstream of the one your using. I am assuming it has the breaker in it.

[taylorbob1]

Been following this since the start…
- why not just plug into a good non-GFCI circuit. See if that works
- reduce your extension cord length from RV to outlet (you said your length is 50’, 20 amp cord)
- go to HomeDepot/Lowe’s & get a new GFCI outlet, replacing the current one on your house that may be to blame

Finally, I gave up on 15 amp circuits running my RV AirConditioning. So I added a 50amp sub-panel in my garage (for future EV), then ran a 30amp RV outlet & a 20amp regular outlet outside my garage protected from elements.

Problem solved.

[VJRocky]

Jimbo, everthing works fine on a non-GFCI outlet. I did try one other, probably unorthodox experiment. I unplugged the converter from the AC bus. Then I ran the MH engine. Then plugged into the driveway outlet. All was ok until I turned on an AC unit which tripped the driveway outlet. So, from my modest knowledge, I removed the converter altogether except for the DC leads. So, I'm thinking its not the converter.

[VJRocky]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

Been following this since the start…
- why not just plug into a good non-GFCI circuit. See if that works
- reduce your extension cord length from RV to outlet (you said your length is 50’, 20 amp cord)
- go to HomeDepot/Lowe’s & get a new GFCI outlet, replacing the current one on your house that may be to blame

Finally, I gave up on 15 amp circuits running my RV AirConditioning. So I added a 50amp sub-panel in my garage (for future EV), then ran a 30amp RV outlet & a 20amp regular outlet outside my garage protected from elements.

Problem solved.

Everything runs fine on a non-GFCI outlet, been there done that. I have also changed the outlet with new, changed extension cords too. I have been using this setup for 6 years without issues. Thanks for the help though

[Jimbo56]

Do you have a non gfci plug you can use.

Did it work for 6 years with his same coach.?

Is something different plugged in on same circuit downstream of this receptacle? Something else that was plugged in recently? Like a refrigerator in the garage?

[CactusJuice]

It seems odd that your GFCI would trip with the converter breaker in the on position upon applying power but not if it is off and then manually toggled. It is far-fetched but in desperation have you tried swapping breaker positions in the RV panel to see if the problem/leakage is possibly with the converter breaker itself? (or possibly the AC breaker?).

[TurnerFam]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

"... adapters for RV use are a bit strange. They take the 110 volt power from that side and apply it to both 110V legs of the 50A side but they are both in the same phase, unlike standard 50/110/220V power."

David

I have no idea what you mean by 50/110/220v power... you mean 50amp 240v power, the ONLY option at campground and rv parks for larger coaches. There is no '110' 50amp power, at least none you'll ever see for RVs.

while typical 240v service is different phases on each hot leg, it has NOTHING to do with adapters for a 50amp RV. 'Sharing' the 120v power is simply that: sharing the power to both legs.
And, since the VAST majority of 50amp RVs have NO capability to 'combine' the two hot legs into 240v power, since none is needed, the effect is that the Main Panel is simply 'two' 120v panels. The breaker box, or better yet the two 'sides' of breakers in the breaker panel DO NOT CARE about one phase of the other - they are ALL 120v power, regardless.

Using a simple adapter for a 50amp RV will NOT be impacted by what power 'source' is providing the power - whether a 30amp campground outlet, a 20amp outlet in your shed, or a GFCI 15amp outlet in your garage. They are all slmply 120v power sources. Phases have nothing to do with it.


But, if you want to argue the 'point' when it comes to larger Motorcoaches and the like, who 'might' have use for 240v power, then YES, of course, the phases matter, but I'll bet those coaches also rarely, if ever, 'adapt' down to a 120v outlet of ANY size. IF they ever do, they simply LOSE the ability to operate the 240v Appliance or any 240v Needs within their coach. Simple. That's it. The only time 'phase' is in question is for 240v power. The breaker box doesn't care.

Fun. Keep it simple.

[VJRocky]

Jimbo, it's the same coach, same setup for 6 years. I have not added anything to the coach. Everything was working before I had the house batteries changed and had them look at a noisy slide motor. It seems as soon as I turn on a major appliance be it AC, absorption frig (on AC) the GFCI trips. I can change the driveway outlet to a non-GFCI but that will reduce the safety which I don't want to do. I know there is a solution and I will keep at it until its resolved. I don't want to start replacing equipment if I can't pinpoint the problem. I suppose there could be a problem in the AC panel which I haven't looked at yet.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by VJRocky

Jimbo, it's the same coach, same setup for 6 years. I have not added anything to the coach. Everything was working before I had the house batteries changed and had them look at a noisy slide motor. It seems as soon as I turn on a major appliance be it AC, absorption frig (on AC) the GFCI trips. I can change the driveway outlet to a non-GFCI but that will reduce the safety which I don't want to do. I know there is a solution and I will keep at it until its resolved. I don't want to start replacing equipment if I can't pinpoint the problem. I suppose there could be a problem in the AC panel which I haven't looked at yet.

Go over your ground wires one by one, especially the battery connections

Did you try the GFCI with the battery cables lifted? Didn't read all the post

[VJRocky]

Yes, that was one of the earlier suggestions, but thanks for the info.

[Jimbo56]

This is my last go at this.

What else is plugged into that circuit downstream of the driveway outlet?

Does the slide work that you had them check?

Are the batteries wired correctly?

[VJRocky]

I'm using a dog bone to connect to the driveway outlet I assume the service is being shared across all AC appliances (not sure about that) I have used another dog bone with the same results. The batteries are wired correctly. They are in the same configuration as my old batteries. Both slides are working also. I have checked and rechecked all outlets including the one the frig is connect to. Everything checks out OK. There must be a leak somewhere other than the obvious places, maybe behind a cabinet or other piece of furniture. I washed the roof recently, not sure if before or after taking it in for service. Maybe water got into the AC units somewhere. I have checked them from the inside and everything is dry. Funny thing, now I am able to plug into the outlet with all of the breakers turned on without tripping the driveway outlet, but as soon as I turn on one of the two AC units and the compressor comes on the outlet trips. I have always been able to run one AC unit of the 15 amp outlet before. Could be an intermittent problem. I will put this to rest for now, but I hope I don't have problems at the Fair next month. I don't believe their pedestals have GFCI outlets. Lets hope not as the weather in Syracuse can be very hot in August. Thanks to all for the help. Feel free to add to this story at anytime. I will be checking in often. Happy camping, stay safe.

[AJMike]

Originally Posted by VJRocky

2014 Hurricane 34E
WFCO Converter "WF9855"
Furion Transfer Switch "F50-ATS" 50 AMP

Hi all, well I have a new electrical issue on a MH that has not given me issues in a long time. I always plug in at the driveway to keep the batteries charged and give me some AC while inside. I recently had the batteries changed (new) at my local RV maintenance shop. When I returned home and plugged in, the GFCI outlet on the driveway tripped. So far I have checked all connections, changed the GFCI outlet, and by the process of elimination turned off all AC breakers and then turned on one at a time. The results are that anytime I turn on the breaker for either the converter, front or rear AC units the driveway outlet trips. If I connect to a non GFCI outlet everything works with all breakers turned on. Aside from the batteries, nothing else has changed. Let me add that the AC units don't cause a trip of the outlet until I turn one of them on. The driveway outlet trips as soon as I turn turn on the breaker for the converter. Any ideas?

What is surprising is that the exact same thing happened to me, although with a 30 amp RV and no dog bone.

I had been bringing home our RV and plugging it in the night before we left for a long time, but we bought a new RV and I had the WFCO charger/converter replaced with a PD version (just the charger/converter deck mount) to support our Lithium batteries. When I plugged that into our garage outlet it popped the GFCI, and did so every time I plugged it in. When I plugged it into a normal outlet I had no issue.

I also checked to see if I could prevent the GFCI from popping by switching off the circuit breakers in the RV and found that if I shut off the one for the converter the problem disappeared.

I also replaced the GFCI outlet assuming that was the first place to start, but have not had a chance to test plugging the RV into the new outlet. The shop that replaced the WFCO deck mount with the PD one said that it might have something to do with the age of the outlet (the house is 20+ years old), but this did not happen before the change in the deck mount.

I just thought it was interesting that my problem parallel the OP's problem so closely. But the important thing will be for me to see if I have this problem when we plug into shore power at an RV park. Since we normally boondock I still don't know if I will have a problem with normal RV park power.

[sip]

I also find this power meter to be pretty useful tool in my arsenal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8JKLG5

Of course you don't want to exceed 15amps on a 15amp outlet and this can let you know how close you are getting. With new big batteries, you could be pulling a lot of current just to charge them and then you add the AC. In my experience, gfci tends to trip before the circuit breaker at the panels when you overload them.

Not sure if it has been discussed but maybe let the batteries fully charge if they aren't before adding more loads.