electrical damage and door issues

HarleypsychRN · 08-16-2022, 12:08 PM

Two issues after our recent trip in our 2016 ACE 29.4

1. Does anyone know what type of screw holds the strike plate secure to the frame we seem to be missing one see attached photo.

2. When I broke camp it appears that the electrical connection was fried (but was still working mind you) Yes, I used a surge protector. again see pics

Can anyone speak to either of these issues?

Oh btw I spoke to Thor's tech support and they said there is no need to use an additional surge protector...has anyone heard this before?

paulwadley · 08-16-2022, 01:27 PM

Looks like it is time to replace the entire shore line and coach connector. You are lucky it did not burn down the entire motor home. The connector might not have been fully connected and twisted together which could have caused that damage with arcing. As far as the surge protector, I always use mine. You never know if the pedestal has issues or if you might get a sudden surge/lightening strike.

Paul.

Beau388 · 08-16-2022, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarleypsychRN

Two issues after our recent trip in our 2016 ACE 29.4

1. Does anyone know what type of screw holds the strike plate secure to the frame we seem to be missing one see attached photo.

2. When I broke camp it appears that the electrical connection was fried (but was still working mind you) Yes, I used a surge protector. again see pics

Can anyone speak to either of these issues?

Oh btw I spoke to Thor's tech support and they said there is no need to use an additional surge protector...has anyone heard this before?

The wood screws are square drive. The bits come in number sizes 1, 2, 3 and 4. My calibrated eye says they are #2 round head wood screws.
The damage to the shore line inlet was probably caused by insufficient contact. The weight of the shoreline can pull the plug partially out of the inlet. This reduces the service contact of the hot and neutral wires causing them to overheat when high amperage is required. Running a 15,000 btu A/C continually will cause both ends of a 30 amp shore line to get warm. For this reason I prefer the twist lock RV inlet and corresponding shoreline end. The same failure can occur at the pedestal if the receptacle is worn, lose or the shore line plug is not fully inserted.

Travelin' Texans · 08-16-2022, 04:15 PM

Hopefully your using an EMS (Electrical Management System) rather than just a surge protector, there's a huge difference between the 2 as far as protection. But you're now needing a new shore cord & the new rv connection. You might be able salvage the cord, but once you cut the damaged end off if the wire is discolored I'd replace it.
You were very fortunate your rv didn't burn to the ground.
As for the screw, remove the other one & find one that closely matches. Then with some wood glue, either wooden tooth picks or wooden matches place them the hole, let the glue dry & put the screws back & adjust the striker plate. Or use the next larger screw.

HarleypsychRN · 08-16-2022, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

Hopefully your using an EMS (Electrical Management System) rather than just a surge protector, there's a huge difference between the 2 as far as protection. But you're now needing a new shore cord & the new rv connection. You might be able salvage the cord, but once you cut the damaged end off if the wire is discolored I'd replace it.
You were very fortunate your rv didn't burn to the ground.
As for the screw, remove the other one & find one that closely matches. Then with some wood glue, either wooden tooth picks or wooden matches place them the hole, let the glue dry & put the screws back & adjust the striker plate. Or use the next larger screw.

Yes I am using a Progressive Industries EMS system. I've had the coach since 2018 and this is the first electrical issue we have had. It was very hot in South Dakota and the air conditioner got used quite heavily for a week strait. Perhaps this was one of the causes .

HarleypsychRN · 08-16-2022, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulwadley

Looks like it is time to replace the entire shore line and coach connector. You are lucky it did not burn down the entire motor home. The connector might not have been fully connected and twisted together which could have caused that damage with arcing. As far as the surge protector, I always use mine. You never know if the pedestal has issues or if you might get a sudden surge/lightening strike.

Paul.

Yes I count this as a close call. I thought the same thing, this could have ended in a fire. The odd thing is we were getting power right up until I flipped the breaker and unhooked the line from the box.

OldWEB · 08-16-2022, 08:24 PM

Your style of striker has threaded inserts on the strike plate. Remove the remaining screw and obtain a replacement making sure it is a pan head... don't try a wood screw please...

The connector was working as the connection overheated and melted/charred the 'plastic' surroundings. The temperature must not have reached the melting point of the copper, so you still had power. Only when you "removed" the connection, it just tore apart the now brittle copper wire. Flipping the pedestal breaker first ensures there will be no SPARKS!!!
Any place that sells RV products should have replacements, as long as you are comfortable with this "minor' wiring task.

Good luck

OldWEB · 08-16-2022, 10:10 PM

Also, now would be the time to convert to a SmartPlug system for ~$150 or stay with the standard 30A style. Some like to spend the extra, myself I don't think it is worth it.

Bill Johnson · 08-16-2022, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Also, now would be the time to convert to a SmartPlug system for ~$150 or stay with the standard 30A style. Some like to spend the extra, myself I don't think it is worth it.

I looked at the smart plug, it's a nice idea but how would I plug my adapters into it. When I'm home I have an adapter for 120 power, 20 amp to keep my fridge running. The adapter plugs into the side of the motorhome and I plug in a short 12 ga cord. I don't feel like dragging the 50 amp cord out and connecting an adapter. Great idea but like you say I'll stick with the standard plug

Chateau_Nomad · 08-16-2022, 11:33 PM

When you replace that electrical connector, I suggest getting one with a threaded collar. When you plug in, you give a slight clockwise twist on the plug, then thread the collar on... if connected correctly, it's nearly impossible to pull apart or create a short.

I had that type connector on both our previous Grand Design trailer and now on our 2020 class C. They're pretty much fool-proof for connecting.

**16ACE27** · 08-16-2022, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

When you replace that electrical connector, I suggest getting one with a threaded collar. When you plug in, you give a slight clockwise twist on the plug, then thread the collar on... if connected correctly, it's nearly impossible to pull apart or create a short.

I had that type connector on both our previous Grand Design trailer and now on our 2020 class C. They're pretty much fool-proof for connecting.

That's what he had, and is pretty standard on RVs with detachable cords.

Beau388 · 08-17-2022, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Also, now would be the time to convert to a SmartPlug system for ~$150 or stay with the standard 30A style. Some like to spend the extra, myself I don't think it is worth it.

I agree, especially since a NEMA L5-30P twist lock plug and inlet are less than $40 on Amazon.

HarleypsychRN · 08-18-2022, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulwadley

Looks like it is time to replace the entire shore line and coach connector. You are lucky it did not burn down the entire motor home. The connector might not have been fully connected and twisted together which could have caused that damage with arcing. As far as the surge protector, I always use mine. You never know if the pedestal has issues or if you might get a sudden surge/lightening strike.

Paul.

Thanks everyone for your help.

HarleypsychRN · 08-18-2022, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

When you replace that electrical connector, I suggest getting one with a threaded collar. When you plug in, you give a slight clockwise twist on the plug, then thread the collar on... if connected correctly, it's nearly impossible to pull apart or create a short.

I had that type connector on both our previous Grand Design trailer and now on our 2020 class C. They're pretty much fool-proof for connecting.

I've never heard that you are supposed to give the plug a clockwise turn in the 4 years I've been doing this. Was I doing it incorrectly?

**16ACE27** · 08-18-2022, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarleypsychRN

I've never heard that you are supposed to give the plug a clockwise turn in the 4 years I've been doing this. Was I doing it incorrectly?

Yes, they are called Twist-Lok connectors for a reason.

HarleypsychRN · 08-20-2022, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Yes, they are called Twist-Lok connectors for a reason.

Stupid me I thought that referred to the twist lock ring. Does anyone know what size bolt fits inside the strike plate?

HarleypsychRN · 08-20-2022, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Your style of striker has threaded inserts on the strike plate. Remove the remaining screw and obtain a replacement making sure it is a pan head... don't try a wood screw please...

The connector was working as the connection overheated and melted/charred the 'plastic' surroundings. The temperature must not have reached the melting point of the copper, so you still had power. Only when you "removed" the connection, it just tore apart the now brittle copper wire. Flipping the pedestal breaker first ensures there will be no SPARKS!!!
Any place that sells RV products should have replacements, as long as you are comfortable with this "minor' wiring task.

Good luck

Not quite sure why neither Thor or the lock set manufacturer could tell me the size bolt.

It is 1/4"-20 X 1/4. I used 1/2" length (that's all I could find and I took a chance) and it worked out fine. I used blue Loctite and an impact driver. Matches the bolt that was in the remaining position.

MLP · 08-21-2022, 09:20 PM

Oxide builds up on the contacts of the power connectors. Oxide is not conductive and will cause heat to buildup do to the resistance it adds to the contacts. I use DeOxit all all my power connectors every three months. Several years ago it solved a big heat build up on my fifth wheel connector from the truck. That thing got really hot.

HarleypsychRN · 08-23-2022, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MLP

Oxide builds up on the contacts of the power connectors. Oxide is not conductive and will cause heat to buildup do to the resistance it adds to the contacts. I use DeOxit all all my power connectors every three months. Several years ago it solved a big heat build up on my fifth wheel connector from the truck. That thing got really hot.

Thank you I will check it out!

HarleypsychRN · 08-23-2022, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Your style of striker has threaded inserts on the strike plate. Remove the remaining screw and obtain a replacement making sure it is a pan head... don't try a wood screw please...

The connector was working as the connection overheated and melted/charred the 'plastic' surroundings. The temperature must not have reached the melting point of the copper, so you still had power. Only when you "removed" the connection, it just tore apart the now brittle copper wire. Flipping the pedestal breaker first ensures there will be no SPARKS!!!
Any place that sells RV products should have replacements, as long as you are comfortable with this "minor' wiring task.

Good luck

I have a friend who is a recently retired Master Electrician (and fellow Thor owner) he has volunteered to come over and swap out the Power inlet, I should be good.

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