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Old 09-25-2018, 10:33 PM   #41
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Was that little cover left in the open position on yours?

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Old 09-25-2018, 10:45 PM   #42
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Not that I could tell, after you take the big plastic cover off, there is a screwed on piece of metal, which I believe is a wind screen, then a little cover over the flame, all in place
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:07 AM   #43
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Ran all night fine on electric going to unplug it and force it to be on LP and see how long it runs. If it’s a LP issue then it should know if it’s that vs it blowing out when on the road. Any other thoughts?
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:14 AM   #44
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Not really sure if this was discussed...tried to read back through the post but couldn't find anything...if you don't have an inverter I would just buy one and install it in a closet/basement locker somewhere near your fridge. Run the power supply directly to coach battery and plug fridge into converter, using it for power while underway. It would also work for you while plugged in at camp since the converter keeps your coach batteries charged while plugged in. You would have the gas or electric option when camping but eliminate the gas usage while traveling. I never was a fan of using gas while on the move. Rarely, but it has happened, that the road wind fueled the flame enough to start a fire.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:27 AM   #45
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Yes that sounds like a good idea since it seems to stay running on electric, in fire wise much safer. Sounds like you did this already. Did you wire the inverter to the the batteries directly or through the main power switch? If so it I may put mine on a toggle switch so it’s not one if I don’t have the fridge on and there would be no need to run it. What do you think of this one?
https://www.campingworld.com/nature-...iABEgK3r_D_BwE
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:36 AM   #46
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Run directly to batteries and install a lighted in-line switch like you said. I did this on an old truck camper that had the 3 way fridge but the 12v power option while underway sucked so I used 120V. you can also run another outlet for additional things like TV but make sure you match the wattage of the inverter to the max load you will put on it. Best to go with a 1500 or 1800 True Sine. More than you probably need right now but reserve power is like 7 bullets in a six shooter. This would give you the "quick use" option of coffee maker or microwave while at rest areas, etc., not having to run generator for just a few minutes at a time.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:39 AM   #47
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Thanks am looking into doing when we get back to Phoenix, our home, on a long trip right now in Maine, then on through DC, to see family, then on to Goosecreek, SC then home. Thanks for all the advice
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:42 AM   #48
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"Run the power supply directly to coach battery and plug fridge into converter,"

I meant to say "inverter", but you probably figured that out.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:48 AM   #49
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If you had a few minutes to play around you can buy one of those 400W (+/-) models for a few buck at a truck stop or auto parts store and play with it. What is the amp draw of the fridge on 120V? How close it your fridge to your coach batteries?



https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Power-.../dp/B00UFERZKO
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:29 PM   #50
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It’s right next to the two 12v batteries, it draws 2.7 amps
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:43 PM   #51
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First, it sounds like a great trip that you're on. Sorry you're dealing with the fridge issues. I had something similar.

When I hooked up at CG electric, I would turn LP off (to conserve my propane).
When leaving, I think I was unhooking the electric before turning the LP back on.

Initially, everything looked OK, but after a few miles down the road, the check light would come on. I'd have to pull over to light the stove & bleed the lines.

Our new procedure is to turn the Fridge to OFF while unhooking.
When we're set to hit the road, I turn ON the LP and set the Fridge to GAS.

When I pull in to fill up, we do the same procedure...set the Fridge to OFF, turn LP OFF and then fill up.

When we're ready to roll, turn the LP ON and set the Fridge to GAS and all has worked well.

If you've tried all of that, one other consideration is ...can you use your generator while driving to keep the fridge going?
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:48 PM   #52
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Thanks for the added info BangG. I think for the safety issue, I will eliminate the LP and go totally electric with an an added inverter. One new concern is the added load on the batteries and vehicle alternator and engine. Hmmmm ? Something also to consider.
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:55 PM   #53
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That equals 324 watts needed...most of these inexpensive inverters around 400amps will surge near 800 so you would be good. Try it before you get home with one of them..I think the sun will shine down on you today!!! This is a very small draw and will not affect your batteries or alternator...especially since the fridge doesn't run all the time. Good luck with it!!
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:56 PM   #54
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If you've got the V-10: Ford offers a much stouter alternator, that would be a drop-in replacement...
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:01 PM   #55
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So you think a 400 vs a 1000 watt will do? What about the draw down on the batteries when we’re not plugged in or the engine running? I wouldn’t think it would deplete the batteries that quickly. Should I run it through the inverter 24/7 or I could put a double through switch in the circuit to have it be back on the regular electric and save on the batteries and charging system when plugged in. Your thoughts?
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:03 PM   #56
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Yes I have the Ford v10
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:19 PM   #57
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Go back to Posts 46 & 49. 46=Go big with permanent inverter wired directly to your battery with inline lighted switch as a reminder it's "on". You don't need additional alternator and you don't need to over-engineering this. 49=suggested you buy one of those $40, 400 watt models at a truck stop or auto parts stores to try/play with this until you get back home for a more permanent option. If you only use the inverter while traveling, as this is what you state as your problem, then you will not have a battery depletion issue. It will power the fridge for a good amount of time with engine off, but not for days....just a few hours during rest stops, lunches, etc. Again...don't over engineer this.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:26 PM   #58
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Ok I get yah..... I understand your point about battery depletion. Was just concerned about added load to general system with my onboard system plugged in keeping the batteries up while running the inverter. I guess if others have done it and it works, i’m Going for it
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:30 PM   #59
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NOW...you'll have plenty of cold beer while driving to the next campground...where you can pass out!!


Regarding your other question...you could change the plug back over to the factory plug while at campgrounds or stored while plugged in. My suggestions are more directed to a solution of gas not working while underway. There are a number of other ways to wire this...depends on how much you want to spend and how much you know about how everything in the coach works.
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:08 PM   #60
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Or I could install a relay and have I switch over to shore power when plugged in, but as they say, “Keep it simple stupid” still going over it in my head and will make a final decision when i’m back home. In regards to the rest of our trip, if it happens to go out again while on the road, it seems to stay cold enough even in the freezer where nothing thaws, so we should be okay till we get home. I do appreciate all the suggestions. Thanks again
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