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Old 12-19-2016, 12:45 AM   #21
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And Merry Christmas to all as well from Louisville
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:57 AM   #22
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LOL.... Us Texans are not use to freezing weather....
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Old 12-19-2016, 01:12 AM   #23
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We are a bit more accustomed to the cold - that's why we are heading to Key West for 3 months!!
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Old 12-19-2016, 01:48 AM   #24
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We are a bit more accustomed to the cold - that's why we are heading to Key West for 3 months!!
most be nice... LOL...
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:05 AM   #25
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Don - it is WONDERFUL. Temps are like paradise.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:24 PM   #26
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Re light bulb in bay. Good idea but make it better and more reliable by using two in series just like the old xmas light strings. That drops voltage for each bulb and makes for almost forever bulb life. Still have same amount of heat and a lower risk of damage from hot bulb.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:40 PM   #27
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Light bulbs for sure the way to go. Instead of using a 100w 120vac light bulb which would work very well maybe consider using a automotive fog light. The cheap work/fog lights are 55w and you can use them without shore power or a generator.

For boats a lot of people use the 100w bulb to keep the motors from freezing.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:47 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentilebrian
For boats a lot of people use the 100w bulb to keep the motors from freezing.
My father used to use 100w floods aimed at the through-the-hull fittings to keep them from freezing when "bubbling" our boat ("bubbling" = storing the boat in the water over winter bubbling compressed air underneath it to keep the water from freezing for those that don't know the term).
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:34 PM   #29
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Any concerns about a fire hazard using a 100w light? I know they get hot enough to melt plastic if they come in contact.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #30
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Any concerns about a fire hazard using a 100w light? I know they get hot enough to melt plastic if they come in contact.
Absolutely. They could easily start a fire if not placed properly.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:43 PM   #31
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Yes, a 100W bulb can cause trouble if improperly located too close to something that can't handle the heat. Finding 100W bulbs is getting to be a problem. But if you put a high
wattage bulb into a trouble light enclosure, you have lessened your risk. Ideally, locate the trouble light by the hook and have the shield not in close contact with anything. Free air flow all around. This sort of thing combined with a blanket over the hood kept my car starting all through some Great Lake winters.
Chuck Peck in CasaLoca (currently parked in Florida)
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:44 PM   #32
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Well I called the Thor tech line about a heated bay area, it went from I don't know, to I am not sure, to there should be, to I cant find it on any drawings. He said he would call me back later. Well 6 hours later I call him back, now its I didn't have time and said I would call you, to it should be in the wet bay, to yea its in the wet bay. So I ask if he found it on any drawing, no he said couldn't find it but if its to cold you have to take it to a dealer.
WOW... this was the worst call to Thor I have ever had.
I guess when I have time I will just add a duct my self.
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:38 PM   #33
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Basement heating

I have a Challenger 37GT and had some of the same heating issues in the forward cabin as others have mentioned. Opened the front register and found foil and sawdust blocking the channel. Cleaned it out and still didn't have much in the way of airflow with the heater on. Went back to the heater compartment and opened the grill and discovered 4 heater vent discharge lines. The one closest to the grill goes to the front. Pulled the metal flange end out of the floor and discovered that the circular metal part that extended into the chase was too long and essentially blocked any air flow to the front. Took tin snips and cut 1 inch off and now airflow to the front has dramatically increased from before. There is also a similar flange going to the basement. Same issue which limited any hot air getting into the basement. Snipped that one off and temps went up in the basement.
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:26 AM   #34
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Here's another trick I've used successfully when it starts to go below freezing. Purchase a digital thermometer with a remote sensor. These can be had for $20 or less. Put the remote sensor in your wet bay and set the console to alarm when it goes below freezing. It might wake you in the middle of the night but it beats frozen pipes. Also provides great peace of mind when you can just view the temperature in there anytime and know what kind of a buffer you have. It's amazing what even a 40 watt bulb will do in an enclosed space.
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