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Old 11-10-2021, 05:08 PM   #1
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Used rv inspection

So we are looking at a used rv and want to get it inspected. However, it would appear that not all inspections are created equal and price can very widely. One group charges 300 flat but seems to only check the major things whereas another group charges 1k and will get the engine oil analyzed. What do you think are the necessity items to have done? Is it worth getting the fluids analyzed? Seems a bit over kill to me, but I do think all of the functions of the rv should be checked. Biggest concern is water damage in my mind.

Also can anyone recommend an inspector in the Atlanta area?

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Old 11-10-2021, 05:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Campnjoe View Post
So we are looking at a used rv and want to get it inspected. However, it would appear that not all inspections are created equal and price can very widely. One group charges 300 flat but seems to only check the major things whereas another group charges 1k and will get the engine oil analyzed. What do you think are the necessity items to have done? Is it worth getting the fluids analyzed? Seems a bit over kill to me, but I do think all of the functions of the rv should be checked. Biggest concern is water damage in my mind.

Also can anyone recommend an inspector in the Atlanta area?
Engine oil analyzed?? I guess if you're buying a 500k USED coach... But pulling the dipstick out and looking at it is the old fashioned way.

The engine is the LEAST of my worries - similar to buying a car, look at the mileage, age and how "dirty" the engine bay is. You can tell a LOT about maintenance history just by how cruddy things are. A 10 year old motorhome with 1,500 miles is just as crucial to inspect as a 2 year old with 50,000 miles. Sitting unattended/unused is a killer.

Balance the cost of the unit against what you're willing to pay for an inspection. Have the inspector show you a sample report they generate. Are all systems covered? Do you walk through the inspection with them - while they explain what they're looking for?

I'd be willing to spend $500 for a few hours inspecting a $100+k unit if they satisfied everything I was looking for. Then I'd make my decision, and fix the rest of the issues myself - AFTER dickering down the price to cover those items.
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Old 11-10-2021, 05:45 PM   #3
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$1,000=1%...2% for a beater old RV.

Do it.
Consider it a built in fee which is more betterer than the dealer built in fees.
What guarantee does the inspector offer?

Dog him like a shadow. Video it all.

We had our current home inspected by two different companies because I didn't believe myself when I found nothing wrong during my personal, by myself, inspection.
I needlessly paid for two inspections.
I couldnt be happier about it.
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Old 11-10-2021, 05:46 PM   #4
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Have if you have a rv tech that is local not a big business they may do. My guess is my guy would do for under $500 and check everything

Good luck..ask them if owner would deduct from price and big issues if you like the MH
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Old 11-10-2021, 07:16 PM   #5
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First

Determine if the inspector is certified and bonded. Generally RV technicians are not certified inspectors and can do nothing but swap parts.
Determine what their level of responsibility/coverage is if they miss something critical.
Determine if there is/are transferable warranties in place on the house or chassis.
Determine what is included in each level of inspection. Yes the levels differ in what is inspected and the time and cost of the inspection is dependent on the level. Some basic level inspections do not climbing on and inspecting the roof.
Determine if the inspection includes getting and recording the dates of tires and batteries

Next

Request the service records for the house and chassis.
Determine what, if anything, is included in a PDI.
If the tires or/and batteries are over four years old request they be replaced or the purchase price be discounted.

FWIW

If the coach has a full wall Schwintek slide walk away and find another unit.
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Old 11-10-2021, 07:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by EA37TS View Post
First

Determine if the inspector is certified and bonded. Generally RV technicians are not certified inspectors and can do nothing but swap parts.
Determine what their level of responsibility/coverage is if they miss something critical.
Determine if there is/are transferable warranties in place on the house or chassis.
Determine what is included in each level of inspection. Yes the levels differ in what is inspected and the time and cost of the inspection is dependent on the level. Some basic level inspections do not climbing on and inspecting the roof.
Determine if the inspection includes getting and recording the dates of tires and batteries

Next

Request the service records for the house and chassis.
Determine what, if anything, is included in a PDI.
If the tires or/and batteries are over four years old request they be replaced or the purchase price be discounted.

FWIW

If the coach has a full wall Schwintek slide walk away and find another unit.
Thanks, this is some seriously good info. Why walk away from the full wall Schwintek slide? My current coach has one of these.
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Old 11-10-2021, 07:32 PM   #7
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I'd want to make sure that the coach is solid and leak-free first...
After that: each of the coach's systems should be trouble-free.
After that: I'd have them give the "driving bits" a quick review...
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Old 11-10-2021, 07:57 PM   #8
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Thanks, this is some seriously good info. Why walk away from the full wall Schwintek slide? My current coach has one of these.
Because they are hit and miss as to problems. A full wall slide is too heavy for the Schwintek system. 13 feet and under they’re good, over 13 feet they can be problems.
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Old 11-10-2021, 08:04 PM   #9
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Unless you're looking at a diesel skip the oil analysis unless you are the kinda guy that does that when buying a used car.

If you're an RV owner you should be able to verify all systems operational.

The big thing, as you mentioned, is water intrusion. That's when you need a guy that knows how to look in all the hidden and out of the way places for signs of that.
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Old 11-10-2021, 11:34 PM   #10
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Because they are hit and miss as to problems. A full wall slide is too heavy for the Schwintek system. 13 feet and under they’re good, over 13 feet they can be problems.
Also it's best to avoid an RV that has utilities in the slide such as water and gas. The flexing become weak point for leaks and pinched line. The lighter the slide the better. Ideal slide would have dinette, sofa, etc, not kitchen appliances. Certainly not bathroom items.
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Old 11-11-2021, 12:10 AM   #11
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So,
I missed a call yesterday.
Friend broke down on I-40 needed trailered in.
For the first time in 10 years he didnt leave a goofy message. Just tapped my phone and hung up. Call at 4:48, he got home at 10pm, about 100 mile round trip for whoever rescued him.
The ding ding was so upset he forgot he had aaa.

He's a good mechanic on old cars, lost on new cars, but noises are noises and the 2008 jeep he bought, that went 50 miles down I-40 before it coughed a rod right through the block, that was a surprise.

50 miles. This guy can here a knock or sticky lifter in a tornado.
A vet living on whatever they pay disabled vets, This is devastating.

Get the inspection
AND
take it to whoever the chassis is, ford, GM, kenworth.

Just a current story.
Pics if required.
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Old 11-11-2021, 12:20 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Campnjoe View Post
So we are looking at a used rv and want to get it inspected. However, it would appear that not all inspections are created equal and price can very widely. One group charges 300 flat but seems to only check the major things whereas another group charges 1k and will get the engine oil analyzed. What do you think are the necessity items to have done? Is it worth getting the fluids analyzed? Seems a bit over kill to me, but I do think all of the functions of the rv should be checked. Biggest concern is water damage in my mind.

Also can anyone recommend an inspector in the Atlanta area?
You can get an oil analysis for about $35. You can draw the sample yourself. It is a standard in the boating world but with the hours on the motor might pass. Would depend on the service records.
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Old 11-11-2021, 12:41 AM   #13
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The "oil analysis" I got last month turned into needing a prostate exam... be careful what you ask for...
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Old 11-11-2021, 12:43 AM   #14
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The "oil analysis" I got last month turned into needing a prostate exam... be careful what you ask for...
Oh that guy behind the 7-11 is a tricky one.
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Old 11-11-2021, 01:14 AM   #15
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Also it's best to avoid an RV that has utilities in the slide such as water and gas. The flexing become weak point for leaks and pinched line. The lighter the slide the better. Ideal slide would have dinette, sofa, etc, not kitchen appliances. Certainly not bathroom items.
Our prior coach, 2015 Challenger 37ND had all kitchen appliances and fixtures in a slide. Owned the rig for 5 years and never had an issue. All three slides on that rig were under 13 feet and other than a wire coming loose from a slide motor on the shakedown the slides worked without issues the entire time. During the shakedown Thor reimbursed me for a mobile tech to troubleshoot the slide issue.
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Old 11-11-2021, 01:31 AM   #16
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We have a 24F with full-wall "dinette" slide. The ninnys ran the city water connection through it under one of the benches. After 2 years no issues, but I keep an eye on it. It is always level before extending. So fingers crossed...
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Old 11-17-2021, 08:05 PM   #17
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My husband is certified. His name is Bill Scurry. Reliable Mobile RV Service. Give him a call 770-363-0472
Good luck with your search.
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Old 11-17-2021, 08:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by njarret1 View Post
My husband is certified. His name is Bill Scurry. Reliable Mobile RV Service. Give him a call 770-363-0472
Good luck with your search.

Hi for future reference is he in colorado to California?
Address: 1444 Caballo Ranch Rd, San Dimas, CA 91773
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Old 11-18-2021, 01:02 AM   #19
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Right on!!!!

"Because they are hit and miss as to problems. A full wall slide is too heavy for the Schwintek system. 13 feet and under they’re good, over 13 feet they can be problems".

A absolutely TRUE statement. My 20ft slide must weigh at least 2,000 lbs, with stove, microwave, sink, and all electric ref, with the Schwintek electric slide. I've put $5,000. into it the 1st year I owned it.
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