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Old 07-07-2022, 11:36 PM   #21
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THOR #20274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligan2 View Post
These from a few years ago were frame failures.. (Not mine) Looks like failed while braking...
Looks like the 1/8 inch steel gave way, when the 1/4 inch metal from the trailer hitch bolted to it gave up. What manufacture would attach a trailer hitch to a spot like that without reinforcing it first

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Old 07-08-2022, 10:42 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Yep, that's so easy to do as you have the the sturdy rings right there and there's no other "ready to go" place to connect it.

On my ACE it's easy: I have a steel rear bumper with access to the hollow interior so it's just a matter of drilling the right size hole and installing a stainless eye bolt with washers and nyloc nut, tightening it up, and you're good to go.

Thank you 16ACE27. No bumper, but I will look suitable location on my rig. Again, great info on this topic.
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Old 07-08-2022, 11:49 AM   #23
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THOR #20274
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Originally Posted by robebur View Post
Thank you 16ACE27. No bumper, but I will look suitable location on my rig. Again, great info on this topic.
You have a metal bumper on your motorhome, just like my ACE. But I would make a bracket that fits under the bumper and sticks out so it's easy to reach, all it's doing is pulling a pin out to activate the brakes
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Old 07-08-2022, 01:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bill Johnson View Post
You have a metal bumper on your motorhome, just like my ACE. But I would make a bracket that fits under the bumper and sticks out so it's easy to reach, all it's doing is pulling a pin out to activate the brakes
That's why installing an eyebolt in the bottom lip of the bumper makes this job ez-peazy.
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Old 07-08-2022, 01:49 PM   #25
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THOR #20274
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
That's why installing an eyebolt in the bottom lip of the bumper makes this job ez-peazy.
Yes that would be the easiest, but he said he didn't have a bumper, all ACE's have bumpers. Like you say in the bottom no one would see it. There is a bracket holding the exhaust pipe for the generator that could be extended with an L angle and attached to that if he didn't want to go into the bumper
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Old 07-08-2022, 04:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Yep, that's so easy to do as you have the the sturdy rings right there and there's no other "ready to go" place to connect it.

On my ACE it's easy: I have a steel rear bumper with access to the hollow interior so it's just a matter of drilling the right size hole and installing a stainless eye bolt with washers and nyloc nut, tightening it up, and you're good to go.

If the "bumper" you're referring to is that flimsy square tube designed to carry your sewer hose, I wouldn't mount anything to it. As said it was designed to carry the weight of the sewer hose & very little more, it might hold up to the slight pull of the ebrake cable, but I wouldn't put bikes, a hitch or mount a generator on it if you want those items to arrive at your destination with you.
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Old 07-08-2022, 05:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
If the "bumper" you're referring to is that flimsy square tube designed to carry your sewer hose, I wouldn't mount anything to it. As said it was designed to carry the weight of the sewer hose & very little more, it might hold up to the slight pull of the ebrake cable, but I wouldn't put bikes, a hitch or mount a generator on it if you want those items to arrive at your destination with you.
It's not.

The ACE bumper is slightly more substantial.

Definitely strong enough to attach a "Protect-a-Tow" or pull a breakaway brake cable.
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Old 07-08-2022, 05:26 PM   #28
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I have a Challenger, not the same rear setup as an ACE.
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Old 07-08-2022, 07:00 PM   #29
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I have a Challenger, not the same rear setup as an ACE.
Yep, the challengers have a full fiberglass rear cap just ans the Windsports, Hurricanes and Miramar with no rear bumper. The rear cap is screwed to the main rear structure along the top and sides. The bottom of the cap is not attached except for the two sheet metal braces.
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Old 07-08-2022, 10:54 PM   #30
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On our Windsport I bolted a short length of chain to the end of the left frame rail, just above where the hitch is bolted on. I used that location because there was a hole there, no drilling required.
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Old 07-08-2022, 11:56 PM   #31
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My 2017 Thor Vegas 25.5 had the hitch bolted on with Grade-3/5 Carriage bolts. I am convinced that none the bolts had seen a torque wrench at any point in their lives. All 6 of them were just a little more than finger tight.
I replaced them with Grade-8 bolts, Grade-8 Nylock nuts and Hardened washers. I torqued them to the spec for the bolts. These bolts along with the frame and hitch are all inspected carefully before every trip. So far, nothing has lost torque and ((knocking on wood)) no stretched bolts needing to be re-torqued.

One thing I have learned in 30+ years of RVs…. Trust no one but yourself to keep you and your family safe.
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Old 07-09-2022, 12:00 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John & Diane View Post
On our Windsport I bolted a short length of chain to the end of the left frame rail, just above where the hitch is bolted on. I used that location because there was a hole there, no drilling required.
I like the chain idea. I will see what space is available.
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Old 07-09-2022, 12:17 PM   #33
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Tiffin replaced our hitch under recall...
Nice and solid now!

This was our year for recalls:
The hitch
Wheel covers
Speed sensors (Mercedes)
freshwater tank pan
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Old 07-13-2022, 08:51 PM   #34
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Do you periodically check every fastener on your automobile or truck to ensure they haven't loosened up? Some of them, like lug nuts, definitely need to be checked regularly. Others are intended to be "set and forget."


I would replace the missing bolts with either SAE Grade 8 (or, better yet, Class 10.9 metrichardware, which is even stronger), use red Loctite when installing them to ensure they do not loosen on their own, and torque them according to the recommended spec for whatever size and grade of bolts/nuts you end up using. If it makes you feel better to check them periodically then knock yourself out but in that case DO NOT use Loctite.
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Old 07-13-2022, 09:23 PM   #35
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THOR #20274
Quote:
Originally Posted by robebur View Post
I have a Challenger, not the same rear setup as an ACE.
I saw a thread where it shows an ACE 30.4, that you started. I didn't see where you changed, sorry
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Old 07-14-2022, 01:32 PM   #36
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THOR #14921
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisoldman View Post
Do you periodically check every fastener on your automobile or truck to ensure they haven't loosened up? Some of them, like lug nuts, definitely need to be checked regularly. Others are intended to be "set and forget."


I would replace the missing bolts with either SAE Grade 8 (or, better yet, Class 10.9 metrichardware, which is even stronger), use red Loctite when installing them to ensure they do not loosen on their own, and torque them according to the recommended spec for whatever size and grade of bolts/nuts you end up using. If it makes you feel better to check them periodically then knock yourself out but in that case DO NOT use Loctite.
Handy Chart ….
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Old 07-15-2022, 05:23 PM   #37
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Hitch ball also not torqued on my Hurricane

I almost lost my towed car on our first trip because the Hitch ball was not tight enough.
Now we check it every trip ( hasn't moved since I tighten it to proper torque), but I've never thought about the hitch coming undone.
I will add that check to my pre-trip checklist.

Thanks for sharing your experience.
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