Chassis Battery question

[Jerry B.]

I’m attempting to change the chassis battery on my Vegas. I have the whole process done down to removing it. However, it doesn’t budge. Is there some type of “Lock Down” tab or something that secures the battery that I’m missing?Appreciate any info or suggestions. Thanks

[16ACE27]

Most batteries have a "hold down" tab near the base that needs to be loosened. This replaces the older "over the battery" hold downs. You will have one or the other but not both.

[Mo_Mike]

Originally Posted by Jerry B.

I’m attempting to change the chassis battery on my Vegas. I have the whole process done down to removing it. However, it doesn’t budge. Is there some type of “Lock Down” tab or something that secures the battery that I’m missing?Appreciate any info or suggestions. Thanks

We are getting ready to change ours (2016 25.2). Is it lining up pretty good with the hole in the dash to try and get out?

What are you using to lift the battery out?

This is the one job I put off all last year...

[Jerry B.]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Most batteries have a "hold down" tab near the base that needs to be loosened. This replaces the older "over the battery" hold downs. You will have one or the other but not both.

Thanks 16ACE27 appreciate the info. I knew there had to be something of that nature. I did finally locate a tab buried under some black spray insulation next to battery. Appreciate your help.

[jerry getlan]

I used a rope ,like a sling pulled tight and lifed it up myself

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by Mo_Mike

We are getting ready to change ours (2016 25.2). Is it lining up pretty good with the hole in the dash to try and get out?

What are you using to lift the battery out?

This is the one job I put off all last year...

I have had the snap-on version of this battery carrier in my tool box for decades. Works for carrying most square or rectangular items so it's not just a one function tool.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2531...3509150&sr=8-7

[Jerry B.]

Originally Posted by Mo_Mike

We are getting ready to change ours (2016 25.2). Is it lining up pretty good with the hole in the dash to try and get out?



What are you using to lift the battery out?



This is the one job I put off all last year...

I’m going to try looping a rope around it in some fashion and pull it up. Once you get it all disconnected you have to jockey it over to the right wheel well area in order to clear some lines, wires, etc. There are the two large air duct hoses that have to be positioned out of the way as well. I opened the front panel and disconnected them. It’s just a matter of maneuvering it around and up after that. It’s a tight fit through the hole but manageable. Probably would have been a bit easier had I enlisted some help. Good luck [emoji106]

[ducksface]

It does not line up well with the dash-hole.
Please take a lot of pictures during your removal so you can post a tutorial.

I'm not entirely sure the tool above will fit in the hole and between the battery and the dash.
I could be wrong, but a strap type which hooks over the terminals will give some added flexibility and result in a considerably lower profile.
I'm pretty sure it's a one handed thing. I couldn't begin to get two hands and forearms into that hole.

I took a very good look when I opened that dash-hole.
I made a mental plan but didn't do the swap. I had opened it to add a wireless battery cut off and a shunt for a battery Guage.

What size is the screw/bolt head on the battery retention wedge that was under the spray on stuff?
I'm thinking 7mm but knowing exactly would help us ALL when trying to blindly fit a socket on a hard to see head.

[ducksface]

I'm going to suggest a shunt and a $15 or so digital battery health meter while you're messing around in there. No need not to, the labor is the rough part of it... And you're doing the hard labor while replacing the battery.

Too many available on amazon and ebay for me to make a recommendation.
The $15 ones do the same as the round $300 popular brand units.

My remote battery jump cable and lugs were $40ish. They hook to the battery cables and provide remote lugs to attach jumper cables to.

My wireless battery cutoff was $40ish on amazon. I think a manual switch unit was $22.
You might as well do some mods and upgrades while you're in there.

[Jerry B.]

Originally Posted by ducksface

It does not line up well with the dash-hole.

Please take a lot of pictures during your removal so you can post a tutorial.



I'm not entirely sure the tool above will fit in the hole and between the battery and the dash.

I could be wrong, but a strap type which hooks over the terminals will give some added flexibility and result in a considerably lower profile.

I'm pretty sure it's a one handed thing. I couldn't begin to get two hands and forearms into that hole.



I took a very good look when I opened that dash-hole.

I made a mental plan but didn't do the swap. I had opened it to add a wireless battery cut off and a shunt for a battery Guage.



What size is the screw/bolt head on the battery retention wedge that was under the spray on stuff?

I'm thinking 7mm but knowing exactly would help us ALL when trying to blindly fit a socket on a hard to see head.

Sorry ducksface I had the battery out and replaced before I seen your thread about pictures. I did wind up using an old leather belt around the battery to give me a hand hold to pull it up out of the tray. I jockeyed it over to the wheel well then picked it up tilting it downward and up out through the hole. The screw/bolt head on the retention wedge was 5/16th on the one I had. A tip here, I had to unscrew it all the way out to get the battery to release. It may be possible to just loosen it until battery can be moved out of the tray but installing it may cause some issues. Not a lot of room there and most of it was blind work. I positioned the wedge and started the bolt prior to installing the new battery saved some headaches. When I reinstalled the two air hoses I routed them over the battery so as not to be touching it and tied them off to hold them “up” off of it. It was basically a straight forward task though time consuming. Lifting the batteries in and out was the most strenuous and caused the most issues. I would have been smart to have had someone help with that. I plan on installing some hinges when replacing the wood cut out and a piece of insulation before closing it back up. Appreciate all your input and your other recommendations. Stay safe

[ducksface]

The hold down sounds like the same in my f150.
Thanks for 5/16 info. It sure beats going at it totally blind.