Level MH Shifts After Slide Deployed

[BuzzDoc]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Experience and manual leveling procedure will get you were you need to be before deploying the slide, but soft ground may still throw you a curveball over several days. Id so, bump up the low slide manually with the slide still out.

I would strongly recommended against leveling with the slides out. The manual process of using the levels is not smooth and almost always results in a jerky movement of the coach which could (combined with the slides being out) result in twisting of the frame and potentially messing up the drive spindles.

Instead. I use the Level Mate Pro system. I block and perform my level with slides in and have the coach 0.75 inches low on the passenger side (opposite the full length slide). Then when the slide is extended I wind up level.

A recently learned process is to always manually level the coach side to side then front to back. There is less risk of torquing the frame and it seems to require less pushes of the buttons to acquire a level finish.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by BuzzDoc

I would strongly recommended against leveling with the slides out. The manual process of using the levels is not smooth and almost always results in a jerky movement of the coach which could (combined with the slides being out) result in twisting of the frame and potentially messing up the drive spindles.

Instead. I use the Level Mate Pro system. I block and perform my level with slides in and have the coach 0.75 inches low on the passenger side (opposite the full length slide). Then when the slide is extended I wind up level.

A recently learned process is to always manually level the coach side to side then front to back. There is less risk of torquing the frame and it seems to require less pushes of the buttons to acquire a level finish.

I've been manually leveling my coach for over 5 years now - never had any jerkiness in MANUAL mode - AUTOMATIC mode is a whole different story.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by JeffThor325

If you have a kitchen measuring cup with a flat bottom (a ¼ cup measure will do just fine), fill it to the rim with water and carefully set it on the counter. Instant 360° bubble level.

Or pay 1 cent

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Or pay 1 cent

Yeah but you have to add tax to that. Now if I can just find my measuring cup

No I actually use this an automatic level.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25505-E...56958046&psc=1

If always gets it right. If my autolevel can't level, I move the coach to more level ground.

I am lucky as my slide when extended has no impact on the leveling

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Yeah but you have to add tax to that. Now if I can just find me measuring cup

No I actually use this an automatic level.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25505-E...56958046&psc=1

If always gets it right. If my autolevel can't level, I move the coach to more level ground.

I am lucky as my slide when extended has no impact on the leveling

Nice ..added to my cart to review

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Nice ..added to my cart to review

There are times when I park and put that leveler on the middle of the floor facing the front of RV; the coach may already be level (all green). But I level anyway because I like the support, but especially if the slide is going out. I won't extend my slide unless all 4 jacks are firmly on the ground.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

I've been manually leveling my coach for over 5 years now - never had any jerkiness in MANUAL mode - AUTOMATIC mode is a whole different story.

Automatic mode jerkiness is part of the experience. Actually I can't tell the difference, when it starts it helps to remind everyone to stay seated.

IMO I don't think the motorhome should shift if already leveled with all 4 jacks firmly on the ground? Must be some other root cause, or maybe it is just poor design.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Or pay 1 cent

Looks like $2 with $1.99 shipping.

This one is 2 cents cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Port.../dp/B0BTD96KRW

[TRMott]

Originally Posted by Deadahead

Still considering myself a novice, third season with Thor, but I've gotten pretty good at reading the level and choosing the correct blocking.

Yet here's my question, I've noticed that once level and I put the slide out, the new weight distribution throws everything off.
Do I just let this be or do I account for this action and adjust the blocking from the beginning?

I know the importance of of leveling and one being avoiding undo stress on the slide motors. I just want to do it right, any words would be helpful.

Thanks all.

We do manual, even though we could use the auto leveler. We use a bubble level and leave the slide side just a hair high, and when the slide goes out it is level.

[racefan]

I have a Freedom Elite F24. Just for giggles when I had it set up and level, I measured from the ground to the bottom of the slide, then I retracted the slide and took the same measurement. Now I know the driver side drops 1 1/2” when the slides out. P.S. I have my level mate pro set to compensate for it I just wanted to know how mush it dropped.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by racefan

I have a Freedom Elite F24. Just for giggles when I had it set up and level, I measured from the ground to the bottom of the slide, then I retracted the slide and took the same measurement. Now I know the driver side drops 1 1/2” when the slides out. P.S. I have my level mate pro set to compensate for it I just wanted to know how mush it dropped.

I have a 24f with full wall slide. I did the same... but I use el-cheapo fixed bubble levels. I calibrated them in a fixed position (the side to side) so that when it indicates level, the driver side is actually about 1 1/2" high. Pop the slide out and it's perfect. BUT I occasionally set up with the driver side ever so slightly higher - the head of the bed. After a couple years of tinkering I just have a feel for it.