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Old 07-24-2020, 06:13 PM   #21
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Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
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I dont have any experiance with the Ford F 550 but I know my old Jeep Wrangler with leave springs rides better when I replaced the OEM bushing (in the leave springs + shackles + Sway bar etc) with poly bushing that are greaseable and I upgraded the shocks.

The OEM shocks are nomally very cheap (lowest bidder get the job so they made very cheap) so I would upgrade your shocks with some quiality aftermarket ones ASAP (even with only 20K miles on your Ride).

Maybe try dropping your PSI 5 # per a tire?

Just some thoughts.

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Old 07-24-2020, 06:25 PM   #22
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Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post

Maybe try dropping your PSI 5 # per a tire?

Just some thoughts.

A LOT of people think psi is a verse in the Bible. But you're absolutely right. Experiment with pressure.

IF anyone takes a real look, low tire pressure has to be incredibly, maybe half of normal to get a blow out or overheated.
Others will dispute this and I'll let them.

The neighbor has 90psi for his 3/4 ton truck.
I have 38psi in my 3/4 ton truck.

Mine grips better, doesn't spin in gravel, doesn't overheat and rides like a dream and still gets 80,000 miles.
His spins at the slightest effort, rides like a gut wagon and gets the same Temperatures and mileage and has a slight ridge developing on his next to center tread. Feathering.

5psi is an excellent start. Lower it at those increments until you're happy with the ride, do some research and see what really is meant by
Low pressure blow out.

And
I've mentioned this here before but it got poo po'od because it couldn't be logically combatted:

There is a thing called
Tire chalking.
You'll have to type
Tire pressure chalking
And then still do a bit of a dig.

It means to put a wide chalk stripe across your tire tread, roll your vehicle slowly over a level paved area, and read the stripe for cupping or over inflation. Then set your pressure so the tire rides flat on the tread.
Easy. 120 years proven, no religion or brand preference required.
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Old 07-24-2020, 07:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pstandiford View Post
Not sure what the difference is between steer and drive tires. The “knobs” I was referring to was each individual tread. The front of each tread on ours was just a trifle bit higher. He indicated that this was the start of the issue they saw on the fleet vehicles. Eventually the tread started to peel off. He said it only happened with the Continental tires. Just something to keep an eye on.
They call these new ones a "hybrid", so guessing they're designed for any location. They have no lugs per say, and the literature states the design is to reduce cracking, so thinking they know they had an issue.
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Old 07-24-2020, 11:22 PM   #24
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Very interesting thread. Nice to hear from some folks who have a Super C. Funny on the highway, I always look at the oncoming RV's and in two years have seen.............2 F550 Chassis. No kidding! The E450s are like the rabbits in my neighborhood! The 6.7 turbo is the beast. I tow my Jeep WK2 and it doesnt know its back there. Will take the Mack truck ride all day for it! Mine had.. has the Continentals. Its not the miles, its the age. About 5 years said the collision center guy I just got mine back from when one of the Continentals exploded. 20,000 miles but 5 years of the elements. Still its a great tire for the heavy loads IMHO. BTW, I replaced the Conts with Hancooks that were supposed to be a better ride. Junk IMHO. I just ate the 2500 RV bucks on sketchy knockoffs and put the Continentals back on. Bummer but a lesson learned.

We did a bunch to make our coach quieter. Took out the earth quake shower door and put up a curtain. We got rid of the sliding doors to the aft berth and put up curtains again. Just the two of us. Lots you can do if you think about it.

Finally as mentioned, proper air pressure makes a big difference. You just have to put up with riding on an earthquake.

Be well and if you find something that makes it not ride like a trucks that is credible. Im in.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:00 PM   #25
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Sumos front and rear make a huge difference...did it myself. Front a bit easier than back to install. I run the standard 110 psi on the tires.
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Old 07-29-2020, 09:13 PM   #26
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Did you just do the Kelderman system on the front or both axes?
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Old 07-29-2020, 09:32 PM   #27
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Stock system, just added the Sumo Springs. They take the place of the factory bump stops.
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Old 07-30-2020, 01:27 AM   #28
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I have the 2017 Thor sf35 also. It’s quite and rides smooth in the front but when wife goes to the back she comments about how everything bangs and how rough it is back there. Looking for some suggestions also.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:58 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glensouth View Post
I have the 2017 Thor sf35 also. It’s quite and rides smooth in the front but when wife goes to the back she comments about how everything bangs and how rough it is back there. Looking for some suggestions also.
I think the sumos are going to be on my to do list. That being said, there are lots of ways to make it quieter in the back, lots. How is your stuff stored in cupboards? Silverware? As I mentioned, I swapped out my shower door setup for a shower curtain. Decibel down! Got rid of pocket doors to aft room. Decibel down. But in the end, I think the Sumo upgrade will be well worth it.

Cheers'
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Old 08-26-2020, 06:32 PM   #30
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Suspension

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucev View Post
Sumo springs didn't do much for my f53. I just took them off and put on Kelderman Stage II front suspension. Ride is soooooo much better. I just checked thier website and they have an air suspension kit for the f550 for 1445 but you would have to call them to see if it will work on the RV chassis.
Brucey,
I'm hoping this reply gets to Brucey. I'm not really adapt on this forum. Did you do a complete front end suspension change or just the springs? I have a Hurricane 35M and I'm really tired of getting beat up by the road and am definitely looking for a solution. Sometimes I feel like I could run over a quarter and feel it. I put Sumo's on the back but haven't done anything to the front except a steering stabilizer. I'm just looking for suggestions on a fix to my rough ride.
Thanks,
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:35 PM   #31
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TomKat334,


I bought the Kelderman kit that includes springs, airbags, hardware and manual fill kit. It cost me an addtional $1000 for installation. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner. The ride is much smoother and not nearly as harsh as it was before. I am trying to determine if I can add the rear kit but Kelderman can't promise it will fit because there are so many models and options.

The new springs are softer and the airbags mount on top of the springs. On our test trip we took a route that I avoided when ever I could. It is so bad that everything on the dash and my phone in the holder ended up on the floor, on the test trip nothing hit the floor, my phone even stayed in it's mount but did turn a little sideways at one point. I would do it again. The Sumo springs that I took off are still sitting in the drive waiting for someone that wants them.



Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:47 PM   #32
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One more thing, the new springs have about six thinner leafs of various lengths vs. the stock two one length. I think that makes it much more progressive when you hit a pot hole or something. I have also noticed there is more of a bounce, kind of like riding in an old Cady vs. a sports car. It's not perfect but I think about as good as a truck can get.


Good luck and let us know how you do. HavsuDave upgraded the same time I did. He may be able to offer his review if you want.
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:28 PM   #33
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Did you just do the front? Not rear? I have sumo springs front and rear… I am ready to go air upfront. The Kelderman kit is pretty good.
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Old 11-11-2020, 12:58 AM   #34
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I just did the front. Kelderman can't guarantee the back will fit. He said it all depends on the configuration from Thor. One guy had to cut a corner out of a storage compartments. I really like the difference they make on the front so the rears are on still on my list.
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Old 11-11-2020, 01:00 AM   #35
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I just noticed this is a super c thread. My apologies. But Kelderman probably has a great package for you.
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Old 11-11-2020, 02:09 AM   #36
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Thanks Buddy....Did you have Kelderman do it or a local distributor?
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Old 11-11-2020, 02:36 AM   #37
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Local suspension shop that I got off Kelderman website. Kelderman specializes in light truck and off road suspension. I bet they have a trick system for the super c. If not there are others out there.
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Old 11-11-2020, 04:35 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstandiford View Post
I’m curious how many miles you have on the Continental tires. I had a guy tell me a few weeks ago that he used to work for a company that had fleet trucks and the Continental tires would begin to self destruct at about 10,000 miles. He said the tread would start to peel off starting at the front of each “knob” on the tire. That’s the exact miles I have on mine and they still look good. Anyone see anything like this?
I ran 16 ply Continentals [made in Germany] on several Kenworth tractors..Always got 150k [steer]to 250k [drives] out of them, then capped them and ran them out on the trailers.
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