New Axis 24.1- What I have learned so far and what is still unresolved

[DavidEM]

I picked up my new Axis 24.1 in late January and have been making some mods and learning more about it, but no camping so far- too cold here in Ct. Here are some things I know and some I am still working on:

Parasitic loads- I have resolved myself to living with 10-15 amp hours daily of parasitic loads- those not specific to any system or appliance. Since all of our camping is dry camping I am not happy with this but I guess I can live with it. It probably means running the generator for a few hours every 2nd or 3rd day. Hope it will put near its rated 55A spec when the batteries are down, see below.

Generator charging- I haven't as yet definitively determined whether the generator is charging the batteries through the converter and at what rate. When I run the generator the battery voltage doesn't change but that is probably because the batteries are full and the solar panel controller is in float. I will disconnect the ground lead to the batteries and start the generator. That will at least tell me that I am getting power from the converter if the lights and other DC stuff works. I will have to wait until I run the batteries down to determine what the full charging rate is.

Refrigerator- I haven't tried the fridge yet on propane. Hopefully we will get a warm day soon and I can start the fridge on propane and see if the burner lights. If the burner lights I am 99+% sure it will cool down and work ok.

Water system- Waiting until the last freeze to de-winterize it, maybe in early April. Then I can fill the tank with water and check out the pump and piping for leakage.

Girard hot water system- Same as above. FWIW the Girard adds 5 amp hours daily to the amperage consumption when the outside switch is on whether the inside control panel is on or not. I am becoming less of a fan of the Girard tankless water heater.

Leveling- At least for now I will rely on ramps to level the Axis. I bought what was claimed as a 16,000 lb GVWR pair of heavy duty service ramps (the Axis is 12,500). One failed as soon as I used it on one front wheel (about 2,500 lbs of load or about half of the spec). So I have ordered another pair rated at 10,000 lbs per wheel for three times the price. They are twice as heavy (in shipping weight) as the one that failed, so maybe they will hold up.

Sooner or later I will probably install a Bigfoot system, but I want to see how ramp leveling works first.

No complaints at all about the new 7.3 liter V8 and the Ford chassis, although access to anything under the hood is a bear. Thor piles stuff around the bare Ford engine. That is one advantage to a Class C- the cab and engine compartment is the chassis builder's design and he knows how to do it, Thor doesn't. Of course there is more room in a Class C since you are not sitting on top of the engine.

Would welcome your thoughts on these issues.

David

[Pete'sMH]

Cool. Enjoy the learning curve. Go ahead and turn on your fridge. Absorption fridges don’t work quite as well in really cold weather as they do in “normal” temps but they still do the job. We were in Texas last month including most of a week without electricity with temps sometimes in the teens. Fridge worked fine.

[Oneilkeys]

I dry camped a lot with my Vegas and Axis - To Alaska and back twice - and I found that some of the greatest parasitic loads came from the two radios that always draw power for the clocks and lights. I put on/off switches on both so I could turn them off completely when I was dry camping and it helped a lot.

[Chance]

I would first check the converter’s manual to confirm that it’s OK to power it without batteries being connected. Some older models required the batteries in order to regulate voltage correctly, although newer models may not. I’m not sure. Either way, I think your idea to run the batteries down some and testing charge current under actual load would be of greater value. As frugal as you seem to be with electricity, you may not need to run generator more than an hour at a time every couple of days.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

.....cut....

No complaints at all about the new 7.3 liter V8 and the Ford chassis, although access to anything under the hood is a bear. Thor piles stuff around the bare Ford engine. That is one advantage to a Class C- the cab and engine compartment is the chassis builder's design and he knows how to do it, Thor doesn't. Of course there is more room in a Class C since you are not sitting on top of the engine.

Would welcome your thoughts on these issues.

David

Class “A” versus “C” has been discussed/debated many times in different threads, each having pros and cons.

The one variable I wish designers could accomplish more often is a flat floor from coach area in back up through cab and front seats. Having front seats at different elevation than rest of house, whether higher or lower, detracts from overall design for me.

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Chance

The one variable I wish designers could accomplish more often is a flat floor from coach area in back up through cab and front seats. Having front seats at different elevation than rest of house, whether higher or lower, detracts from overall design for me.

Unfortunately what you note is the nature of the beast. To keep the overall roof line low, the coach builder drops down 6" or so behind the driver/passenger seats. You can't make that area lower as the engine and suspension are in the way.

David

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Oneilkeys

I dry camped a lot with my Vegas and Axis - To Alaska and back twice - and I found that some of the greatest parasitic loads came from the two radios that always draw power for the clocks and lights. I put on/off switches on both so I could turn them off completely when I was dry camping and it helped a lot.

Interesting, I assume you are talking about the Axxera radio and rear camera display on the dash. It does have an on/off switch built into it right below the display. But that on/off switch may not be turning all power off although it does turn off the display and kills the radio sound. Were the switches you added on the dash?

I have found another similar device- the Girard tankless hot water heater. Unless the outdoor switch is off it pulls about 0.2A continuously. The Girard manual talks about installing a user supplied switch to limit this current for dry camping, but obviously Thor doesn't do that.

I can probably live with 15-20 amp hours of parasitic loads each day. That assumes that things like the fridge controls don't eat up more. On my T/T the fridge controls consumed about 5 amp hours daily.

If I can get the total loads: lights, device charging, slide, awning, water pump, etc down to 30 amp hours daily I will be ok.

David

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Chance

I would first check the converter’s manual to confirm that it’s OK to power it without batteries being connected. Some older models required the batteries in order to regulate voltage correctly, although newer models may not. I’m not sure. Either way, I think your idea to run the batteries down some and testing charge current under actual load would be of greater value. As frugal as you seem to be with electricity, you may not need to run generator more than an hour at a time every couple of days.

I was also concerned about running the converter with no battery attached, but the WFCO manual says: "The WF-8900 Series Power Centers will charge the 12-volt House battery if installed. A battery DOES NOT have to be installed for WF-8900 Series Power Center converter operation." So I think I am ok disconnecting the battery.

I am frugal with electricity. I am hoping to get both my parasitic as well as normal loads down to 30 Ahs daily. With 200 Ahs of AGM batteries I will be fine for 3 days and an occasional 4th day shouldn't kill them. I have never camped in one spot more than 3-4 days.

But I am concerned with the converter's output. I have quite a bit of experience with full time live aboard boating and it is my experience that with 50% depleted batteries you can get rated current from your charger for 10-15 minutes, then it starts to drop. That is the BIG advantage of LiFePO4 batteries- they charge at full rate until they get close to 90% and then taper off.

My converter is 55A and that is as big as I want to go with 200 Ahs of AGMs. I suspect it will take a couple of hours of generator time to put 60 Ahs back in. Of course that is the other advantage of LiFePO4s. They can take charging at 50% of C.

With my AGM batteries I think I will not see any harm by discharging to 25% SOC once or twice a year. as long as I immediately recharge.

David

[Chance]

I did not recall you upgraded to AGM. Recommended charging for AGM suggest taking batteries back to 100% SOC regularly, which could take a while. Since final 10~20 percent is slower, you may consider running generator less frequently but for longer period. Topping-off AGM batteries slowly with solar over many hours could work, but I recall you saying that you park in shade.

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Chance

I did not recall you upgraded to AGM. Recommended charging for AGM suggest taking batteries back to 100% SOC regularly, which could take a while. Since final 10~20 percent is slower, you may consider running generator less frequently but for longer period. Topping-off AGM batteries slowly with solar over many hours could work, but I recall you saying that you park in shade.

Generally we drive for 2-3 hours and camp in one campsite for a couple of nights, then drive a couple of hours to another site for a couple of nights and then back home. I would hope that the two hour drive will add some amp hours. I do know that the Precision Circuits BIM 160 works to tie the two battery systems together.

When we get back home 4 nights later I park it in an RV storage yard which is wide open to the sun. The batteries should be topped off in a few days.

David

[Oneilkeys]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

Interesting, I assume you are talking about the Axxera radio and rear camera display on the dash. It does have an on/off switch built into it right below the display. But that on/off switch may not be turning all power off although it does turn off the display and kills the radio sound. Were the switches you added on the dash?

I have found another similar device- the Girard tankless hot water heater. Unless the outdoor switch is off it pulls about 0.2A continuously. The Girard manual talks about installing a user supplied switch to limit this current for dry camping, but obviously Thor doesn't do that.

I can probably live with 15-20 amp hours of parasitic loads each day. That assumes that things like the fridge controls don't eat up more. On my T/T the fridge controls consumed about 5 amp hours daily.

If I can get the total loads: lights, device charging, slide, awning, water pump, etc down to 30 amp hours daily I will be ok.

David

There are two power inputs to the dash radio - one goes to the chassis battery and is turned off when the key is off - and the second - which powers the memory and light- goes to the house batteries - at least in my 2016 Axis. The second radio in the bedroom also is powered all the time from the house batteries. I put an on/off switch in the power lines from the house batteries to to the two radios so I could turn them off when I dry camped or when I stored the vehicle.

[DavidEM]

I think my 2021 Axis is different. The dash radio/rear camera display is only powered from the coach batteries and is turned off or on with a push button switch underneath the display. There is no radio in the back.

David

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by Oneilkeys

There are two power inputs to the dash radio - one goes to the chassis battery and is turned off when the key is off - and the second - which powers the memory and light- goes to the house batteries - at least in my 2016 Axis. The second radio in the bedroom also is powered all the time from the house batteries. I put an on/off switch in the power lines from the house batteries to to the two radios so I could turn them off when I dry camped or when I stored the vehicle.

I cut that 2nd connection and wired it into the key off wire. Thus when the key is off the radio is completely off.

[Oneilkeys]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

I think my 2021 Axis is different. The dash radio/rear camera display is only powered from the coach batteries and is turned off or on with a push button switch underneath the display. There is no radio in the back.

David

Yes. They change them all the time. However, unless you have to reset your clock every time you turn off the key, there are two power wires to the dash radio. One turns off with the key and one stays on all the time - as long as the house batteries are hooked up. JamieGeek has another way to solve the problem. The only difference is with my way the clock is the correct time until I dry camp for more than two days or put it in storage.

[DavidEM]

Are we talking about the Axxera display shown in the pic below. That is the radio selection display and when you are in reverse or turn signals are flashing, it shows the back or sides. It is a touch screen that lets you select radio stations. AFAIK that is the only radio control. Maybe it has a clock display when in radio mode, don't recall.

David

[Oneilkeys]

That’s a new Axxera radio to me. However, if it has a clock or it has a function where you can set radio stations so you can easily find them again, then it must have a memory function. If it has a memory function, all radios do, it has to have power to the memory unit. That is usually supplied by a second wire from a battery that does not shut off when the key is removed. If you do not have a schematic in your packet for the radio, you should be able to google the model number and get it.

[hacock@satx.rr.com]

I have a 2021 Vegas and it has the new V/8 but I cannot see the dip stick. Can you see yours on your axis?

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by hacock@satx.rr.com

I have a 2021 Vegas and it has the new V/8 but I cannot see the dip stick. Can you see yours on your axis?

At the PDI I asked the tech to show me the dipstick and the filler port. He couldn't find them and got another guy to help him find it. As I recall the dipstick was on the left (facing the engine looking aft) and the filler port was on the right, but both were buried in stuff.

FWIW that stuff is heater hose and similar that Thor added. They didn't do a good job of routing them for basic access to the engine.

David

[DavidEM]

Well, I spent quite a bit of time with my new Axis at the storage yard, checking out stuff and getting ready for our first shake down camping trip in a few weeks. Here is what I did:

Started the genset and disconnected the battery. The lights, fan, etc continued to run. So that is pretty solid evidence that the generator is powering the converter and is providing DC to the coach.

Started the absorption fridge on gas. Lit right up and I watched it for an hour as the outside tube got hot and the inside started to cool down. All is well there.

Checked the tire pressure. They were all very low about 50 psi and spec is 75 front and 65 rear on my coach. Used two different compressors, one AC powered and the other DC to pump them all up. I settled on the DC to take with me as its fitting was easier to screw into the valve stems.

Wiggled my new Lectric folding E bike into the pass through compartment from the drivers side. It just squeezed in place.

Set up a pair of very heavy ramps in the passenger side compartment. These are rated at 10,000 lbs each and lift a bit over 6". I will use these and a pair of lower lift ramps to level up the coach for camping.

Found the Winegard Connect2 password on the side of the antenna and plugged it into my iPhone and it connected. As is I guess it is just a wifi extender antenna. I don't think I will get a SIM card for cell phone data.

The last thing I need to do is to fill the water tank and check out the fresh water system. But that iwill have to wait a couple of weeks until I am sure that we won't get a hard freeze here in Ct.

David