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Old 09-03-2017, 02:12 PM   #21
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Tfryman, be careful with that cabling, cat5 does not have the insulation that is needed for carrying 110AC circuits.

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Old 09-03-2017, 02:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ComputerChips View Post
Tfryman, be careful with that cabling, cat5 does not have the insulation that is needed for carrying 110AC circuits.
I have to agree. Cat5 was NEVER meant to carry 110V 30-50A load. It will get hot and the insulation will melt. Eventually it will short. Perhaps sparking a fire. DO NOT DO THIS!
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:57 PM   #23
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I've been reading various threads and forums the past hour, after reading this thread. I finally realize I should just ask!

My Challenger is 50 amp. If I go to a CG with only 30 amp hookups, am I better off using a dogbone connector like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55185-P...trical+adapter

Or a Progressive Industries adapter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I...b4fbf9e8af3903

I have a Progressive 50 amp surge protector, if that matters.

Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:26 PM   #24
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GBrown, It's not carrying the "load" (it couldn't) but is is carrying the AC line voltage to the meter on that one input. The other input is carrying an induced voltage produced when the load passes through that coil "pickup" sensor. That iallows it to monitor the amperage load so tbe meter can present that value.
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #25
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Mike, they both do the same thing. Some folks like the flexabilty of the corded version. Some outlets may have covers that might prevent the non corded version to be inserted along with the power cord attatched.
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Old 09-04-2017, 10:57 PM   #26
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Here's a question for you gurus...

I thought that I had a 30 amp hook-up in my garage...
...But it was a plug for a dryer!
My questions: does that dryer plug have a 30 capacity?
If so: does anyone make a 30 amp to dryer plug converter?
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:07 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Here's a question for you gurus...

I thought that I had a 30 amp hook-up in my garage...
...But it was a plug for a dryer!
My questions: does that dryer plug have a 30 capacity?
If so: does anyone make a 30 amp to dryer plug converter?
Careful... Quick way to fry an RV....
The 30A RV plug is unique. It is 110v with a hot, neutral, and ground....

Dryer plugs are 220v... If 3 prong then hot, hot, ground.... No safe way to adapt.
Same for most welder outlets.
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Old 09-04-2017, 11:28 PM   #28
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Don't attempt this. The dryer circuit is 220V. You will destroy your RV if you attempt it.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComputerChips View Post
Tfryman, be careful with that cabling, cat5 does not have the insulation that is needed for carrying 110AC circuits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrown View Post
I have to agree. Cat5 was NEVER meant to carry 110V 30-50A load. It will get hot and the insulation will melt. Eventually it will short. Perhaps sparking a fire. DO NOT DO THIS!
Wrong on all counts:

CAT5 Plenum cable is rated for 300 Volts"
Quote:
Cat5e Plenum Cable Ratings:
  • Tested to 350 MHz for Zo, Next, RL, Atten, PSNext, Elfext, PSEIFext and Skew
  • Maximum Operating Cable Temperature: 75°C
  • Voltage Rating: 300V
And there is basically no current going through the CAT5 cable, both the voltage and current sensing lines are actually measuring voltage so they are high impedance, low current (almost no current) sensing devices.

There is no "30-50 A load" in these cables: the current transformer increases sensed voltage as the AC current increases.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:16 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Here's a question for you gurus...

I thought that I had a 30 amp hook-up in my garage...
...But it was a plug for a dryer!
My questions: does that dryer plug have a 30 capacity?
If so: does anyone make a 30 amp to dryer plug converter?
If an adapter existed (I don't know of any that do), it would do the same thing that a 50 Amp to 30 Amp dogbone adapter does except the source in the case of the dryer is normally breakered at 30 Amps.

So if your dryer plug is 4 conductor (most modern ones are) and you knew what you were doing, you could tap into that plug receptacle box and mount a 30 Amp RV receptacle next to it, but that probably would be per code as you would only use one of the two hot legs for the RV.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:10 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
I've been reading various threads and forums the past hour, after reading this thread. I finally realize I should just ask!

My Challenger is 50 amp. If I go to a CG with only 30 amp hookups, am I better off using a dogbone connector like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55185-P...trical+adapter

Or a Progressive Industries adapter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I...b4fbf9e8af3903

I have a Progressive 50 amp surge protector, if that matters.

Thanks!
Use the dog bone one, those little hockey puck ones in the past have been fire hazards, they got VERY hot & melted, maybe they've changed the design, but I wouldn't chance it.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:42 AM   #32
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I absolutely agree with TT, the little adapter has a bad tendency to overheat and sometimes melt, not something you want to happen! Get a good quality dogbone adapter like the one from Amazon. I also carry the 30 to 15 dogbone so I can keep batteries charged at home. Plug both adapters in a chain then you can use 15 amp, won't run AC but will allow you to precool your fridge.
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:30 AM   #33
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Tfryman, you have the right size wire ( 3 #10 )
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:10 AM   #34
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Whoops I wasn't finished. You should have 3 or more #10 conductors. So you could install a single pole 30 amp breaker in the panel. (In a new opening or swap out the old double pole 30 breaker and use a filler plate for the unused space. Choose a spot so that the old white wire will reach the neutral buss and the black wire will reach the breaker, if you put it in a new spot). Then replace the dryer outlet with a 30 amp single pole outlet ( RV ).
You have to be careful to connect the hot/black to the correct prong on the outlet and the neutral/white on the correct prong and the ground/bare or green on the correct prong.
If your one of the guys with a special surge protector you will certainty want to test your new outlet before use to be sure it's right.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:47 AM   #35
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Thanks guys!
Now that i know what is possible: a call to my Brother-In-Law (The Electrician), is on my "To-Do" list!
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
I absolutely agree with TT, the little adapter has a bad tendency to overheat and sometimes melt, not something you want to happen! Get a good quality dogbone adapter like the one from Amazon. I also carry the 30 to 15 dogbone so I can keep batteries charged at home. Plug both adapters in a chain then you can use 15 amp, won't run AC but will allow you to precool your fridge.
Thanks Dave! I wondered if that was possible. That's going to be very handy, being able to plug into an outside outlet at home and run the fridge overnight before a trip!

BTW, just learned something about this forum's "Thanks" feature. I tried thanking you for this post, but it said "you have to spread the thanks around to others before thanking SuperD again." Weird!
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:52 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
Thanks Dave! I wondered if that was possible. That's going to be very handy, being able to plug into an outside outlet at home and run the fridge overnight before a trip!

BTW, just learned something about this forum's "Thanks" feature. I tried thanking you for this post, but it said "you have to spread the thanks around to others before thanking SuperD again." Weird!
LOL! No thanks are necessary, glad I could assist!
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