Oil change - Page 2

glamperjan · 08-06-2018, 02:14 PM

It says on the cap to use that deox 5 W 30

Sent from my SM-G920V using Thor RV Forum mobile app

Muggs · 08-06-2018, 02:16 PM

Going to better grade oil/oil filter never hurts. The Motorcraft Synthetic blend seems to do good job. Going straight synthetic does not hurt anything. I just returned from Blue Ridge driving in NC and am approaching next oil change interval. Appears that the V-10 used no oil even though it was run pretty hard. I passed many DPs as well. I also learned to never get off parkway at SR 80, is like a slalom course for RV.

The LS style engine in my 12 year old Suburban will use more oil with syn blends, even more with full syn. The older Tahoe it replaced with SBC saw no consumption change with syn. The Nissan commuter car does fine with syn. I do not use in my race motors as it seems to hurt ring seal on loose clearance 7500 RPM small block chevy.

Nanaimo · 08-11-2018, 06:34 PM

No problem with the oil change, but what needs to be greased under there?

rickymac · 08-11-2018, 06:47 PM

What is the difference with the Mobile One "Annual Oil."

jgwmjw2 · 08-11-2018, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desnichols

We are changing the oil in our 2017 Thor Ace 29.4 with a Ford V10 engine. Any advice on best oil and how much?

This is a nearly new MH, it may still be under Ford warranty. If so, I would stick with the recommended oil in your owners' manual. Also, for warranty purposes, fully document your oil change with receipts, diary etc. if you insist on changing it yourself.

jgwmjw2 · 08-11-2018, 09:44 PM

and don't forget to look for grease fittings on the front axle. There are at least 10 on my Challenger.

Forest Grump · 08-11-2018, 10:07 PM

Owners manual:

Recommended motor oil (U.S.):
Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil

Pretty much true for all Ford products for quite awhile.

slomarsh · 08-11-2018, 11:23 PM

Same here. Under warranty still so I use the recommended Motorcraft syn blend and Motorcraft filter. My E450 pol drain is easy compared to the F-53 we did have.
For the F-53 crossmember problem try this: Get a new or used radiator hose long enough to reach your oil catch pan from the drain plug. Loosen the last few threads of drain plug by hand and when it drops, quickly hold the hose over the oil flow. You will still get a little oil splash depending on how quick you are. I used to try to hold an oil pan on the cross member. Spilled it each time until I discovered the radiator hose trick.

mjgigliophd · 08-12-2018, 01:19 PM

When we bought our 2014 35HT Challenger in Jan w/4K miles our inspector tested all of the fluids and found some contamination in the oils (all of them). Had them all replaced with a synthetic recommended by Ford. Think it was 10 its but not sure. How much we use the coach our inspector said we'd age out the oil in 2-years before needing to change due to miles

gmc · 08-20-2018, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nanaimo

No problem with the oil change, but what needs to be greased under there?

Someone posted this a while ago... I saved the image. For F53 chassis.

Dilley-Dilley · 08-23-2018, 01:49 AM

It’s a great idea to get under your MH and inspect these lubrication areas. Check the grease seals (boots) and the zirc fittings. On our 2017 Miramar 34.1 the grease seal on the connection of the Pitman Arm to the Drag Link (#8) was cracked and dry of any grease when brand new. Our local Ford Dealer gladly replaced the seal under warranty. Furthermore, the rest of the lubrication areas needed an ample amount soon after we took ownership.

knightfam · 10-20-2018, 07:35 PM

Does ford use a standard size drain plug? I want to add the drain plug, but don't want to order the wrong size.

Peterrrr · 10-20-2018, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowpokes3r

Does ford use a standard size drain plug? I want to add the drain plug, but don't want to order the wrong size.

If your talking about the Fumoto Drain Plug, at their site you input the year, make and model and your options come up. On my 6.8L V/10 I installed their F106N model.

Tom Bowe · 10-21-2018, 02:31 AM

Mobil 1 is on sale at Costco right now. 6 quart case for just under $30. Much easier to deal with than the 5 quart jugs.

knightfam · 10-21-2018, 06:41 AM

Going tomorrow!

Long & Winding road · 10-21-2018, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickymac

What is the difference with the Mobile One "Annual Oil."

They say you can go "20,000 miles" (So for most auto's "once a year"). But the old Mobile one use to say "15,000" miles so I guess they improved it or perhaps tested it to 20K miles?

Thats the oil I use on one of my cars and Im going switch my RV over to his oil as well next weekend.

Not sure if I will just change once a year in the RV or wait until like 1.5 years. It just feel wrong to wait longer but perhaps it wont hurt if your only doing 3 or 4K miles a year?

geno929 · 10-21-2018, 01:03 PM

Mobil 1 5w-20 full synthetic in the Ford V-10 and Royal Purple 10w-30 in the generator. The coach get an oil change every fall and the generator once a year, based upon use, of course.
It's very easy to change the coach oil. Flat ground, place it up on the levelers, block the tires, Drain the oil, remove the oil filter, let drain for 10 minutes or so. Add some oil to filter, replace and hand tighten. Replace drain plug. Start coach, and check for leaks.
The generator is a bit messy. I try to have the coach at a slight lean towards the side away from the generator. The fill port is almost the same level as the "full" on the dipstick. Remove the small bolt holding the drain plug cover, spin it away to gain access the the drain plug. Start and warm the generator. Put some electric on: AC or lights and fridge to stress the generator for a few minutes.
After it is warmed a bit, turn off. Wait a few minutes prior to removing the drain plug. Let drain for at least 10 minutes. Replace drain plug and place cover back in it's proper place. Fill with a quality synthetic oil and use a funnel to avoid spilling.
Depending on how much you utilize the generator, will dictate how often you change the oil. For us, once a year is fine.
Keeping an oil drain pan w/ the needed tools etc. in one place is a helpful thing. For the extra expense of Synthetic oil vs. regular oil is cheap protection for a complex and loved machine!

Peterrrr · 10-21-2018, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Long & Winding road

They say you can go "20,000 miles" (So for most auto's "once a year"). But the old Mobile one use to say "15,000" miles so I guess they improved it or perhaps tested it to 20K miles?

Thats the oil I use on one of my cars and Im going switch my RV over to his oil as well next weekend.

Not sure if I will just change once a year in the RV or wait until like 1.5 years. It just feel wrong to wait longer but perhaps it wont hurt if your only doing 3 or 4K miles a year?

If your going to feel wrong about, I would change it at the one year. After all that's what all the manufactures recommend, even when you have the oil monitor.

axis earl · 10-21-2018, 02:30 PM

Onan/Cummins calls for either 30 weight or 15/40 for the more diverse climates for their generators. I decided to go with teh 15w/40 weight. Synthetics are hard to find on the shelf so I ordered from Amazon. Schaeffer is one brand I have used and recently ordered a case of Royal Purple 15w/40.

HaRVey · 10-21-2018, 05:04 PM

Go to Bob is the Oil Guy for everything you want or need to know about which oil and why and avoid all of the personal opinion or marketing hype.

If you are also trying to change your oil only as required, having oil analysis done (I use Blackstone Labs), especially for DPs which use a lot of expensive oil can pay for itself in short orde.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

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