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Old 01-29-2022, 01:54 AM   #1
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Roof ac’s

I have a Thor Hurricane…36’ two ac units on the roof….they are not putting out much cool air…really none…I know u can’t just put Freon in them like u can car AC so I heard they have to be replaced…has anyone ever replaced a roof ac unit…I am pretty sure my warranty will cover them but just in case would love to know ball park amount!

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Old 01-29-2022, 02:04 AM   #2
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Can you give us more info about the ac units and your MH?
We might help you fix 1 or both.

Changing the units doesn't look hard, YouTube is your friend.
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Old 01-29-2022, 02:16 AM   #3
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How old is your coach?
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Old 01-29-2022, 11:28 AM   #4
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I added a 13,500 Coleman Mach 3. Rooftop unit cost $1200 but can be found on sale for less. You shouldn’t need the plenum and controls. At an independent shop I think install would run around $500.
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:09 PM   #5
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It may be a bad capacitor or something other than freon. Depending on the age, I wouldn't just think replacement. It may be something simple and far less expensive.

Like others said. Would help greatly if you put in your units year, age, and what units are on the roof may even help.
Should go into your signature and enter your RV's spec's there. That way they are saved for future questions.
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:16 PM   #6
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https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f4...ane-29139.html


A 2017 34J — seems a little too new to need air conditioners replaced already unless it was a bad batch.
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:53 PM   #7
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It may be a bad capacitor or something other than freon. Depending on the age, I wouldn't just think replacement. It may be something simple and far less expensive.

Like others said. Would help greatly if you put in your units year, age, and what units are on the roof may even help.
Should go into your signature and enter your RV's spec's there. That way they are saved for future questions.
Sorry….2017 they say Coleman Mach on them.
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Old 01-29-2022, 02:08 PM   #8
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Sorry….2017 they say Coleman Mach on them.
Then I would have them looked at before buying or thinking of buying new ones.
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Old 01-29-2022, 02:15 PM   #9
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Then I would have them looked at before buying or thinking of buying new ones.
I would think that they would have to be diagnosed by an approved repair facility in order for his ESP to pay for their replacement. But then, wouldn't the ESP pay for the labor as well? So why is he researching DIY replacement?
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Old 01-29-2022, 03:41 PM   #10
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inlyzbldcj are you interested in any very easy DIY projects to maybe get your ACs preforming MUCH better?

PM sent
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by inlyzbldcj View Post
I have a Thor Hurricane…36’ two ac units on the roof….they are not putting out much cool air…really none…I know u can’t just put Freon in them like u can car AC so I heard they have to be replaced…has anyone ever replaced a roof ac unit…I am pretty sure my warranty will cover them but just in case would love to know ball park amount!

Strange is both went out at same time? What the odds of both losing coolant pressure at same time and will not cool at all.
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:45 PM   #12
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Fellow camping besides us last week had very green AC units visible from the ground. Perhaps he might have a bit of an air flow issue.

Good place to start with AC units both inside and exterior
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:52 PM   #13
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Both A/C units go bad at the same time? What are the odds?

On our old 2006 Gulfstream the A/C start capacitor went bad. My neighbor is an HVAC tech for the local hospital he changed out the capacitor and added a piercing valve to the low side tubing then added a bit of freon. When he was done you could hang meat in a 10-year-old motorhome.
Most RV repair shops will only remove and replace the A/C as the roof top units on most of today's RVs are a sealed system, but a knowledgeable tech can add a bit of juice to improve performance.
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Old 01-29-2022, 06:48 PM   #14
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You can always check the A/C for function by turning then one on at a time and checking the input air temperature and comparing it to the output temperature. After about 15 minutes of running (with no cycling), the temperature differential should be 20 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees. That will be true if the outside temperature is between 50 and 100 F degrees and regardless of the interior temperature. Be aware there were/are four different refrigerants used in RV roof top A/Cs plus many different replacement refrigerants including ultra pure propane. A/C units should be cleaned and checked once a year; not just cleaning the filters but checking the evaporator and condenser coils. The outside cover should be removed and all the debris removed (mud dauber nest, ext). Any good car A/C shop can evaluate your roof A/Cs operation and add refrigerant if necessary.
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Old 01-29-2022, 06:54 PM   #15
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You can always check the A/C for function by turning then one on at a time and checking the input air temperature and comparing it to the output temperature. After about 15 minutes of running (with no cycling), the temperature differential should be 20 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees. That will be true if the outside temperature is between 50 and 100 F degrees and regardless of the interior temperature. Be aware there were/are four different refrigerants used in RV roof top A/Cs plus many different replacement refrigerants including ultra pure propane. A/C units should be cleaned and checked once a year; not just cleaning the filters but checking the evaporator and condenser coils. The outside cover should be removed and all the debris removed (mud dauber nest, ext). Any good car A/C shop can evaluate your roof A/Cs operation and add refrigerant if necessary.
You think auto air shops have piercing Schrader valves and the correct refrigerant? And that they can do anything other than swap parts and do what the Freon machine tells them (which isn't even set up for RV A/Cs)?

Boy, you have a lot of faith!
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Old 01-29-2022, 06:59 PM   #16
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“Say Coleman Mach on side”. Filters clean? Plenum blocked? Parked fairly level? Tried one at a time? Coils on top cleaned? Airflow blockages?

Maybe just take it to a dealer and let it sit on the lot for a few months.
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Old 01-29-2022, 08:04 PM   #17
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Ok,
Im going to say it.

The op didn't give enough information for anyone to think differently:

Did you bump the fan switch and only the fan is coming on?
Is a wire loose at the thermostat?

I see no other way to mitigate both going bad at once.


If I missed where the op said the sound it made, or didn't make, when it kicks on...
Then
Never mind,

Signed,

Emily latella
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Old 01-29-2022, 09:24 PM   #18
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You think auto air shops have piercing Schrader valves and the correct refrigerant? And that they can do anything other than swap parts and do what the Freon machine tells them (which isn't even set up for RV A/Cs)?

Boy, you have a lot of faith!
No just experience. When I bought my UltraVan, it came with a Colman Polar Pal 9,000 BTU (made from 1964-8) filled with F-12 refrigerant. Since was 30 years old when I perched it, I wanted to keep it as original as possible. Harland Automotive in Murray KY [https://harlanautomotive.com/] pumped it down replaced the receiver/drier and refilled the unit with reclaimed F-12. The A/C was still working when sold it in 2009. I had Harland install a new Coleman Mach 3PS in 2009 because the old Polar Pal would stall my Generac 400XL in the 100 degree temps.
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