Side Mirror Replacement

[mcpandt]

I am having an issue that I have seen others post about with the chrome peeling from my side mirrors. The mirror chrome itself is fine, but the chrome on both bases is peeling.


I was looking at painting it in place with chrome paint as some have suggested, but there is a place nearby where I can get rechroming done which will look a lot nicer, and I have also found replacement base arms online for about $150 each.


Either way, I need to remove the base arm and disconnect/reconnect the electric and camera. I understand that there should be a connector plug, but I am not sure how easily accessible it will be.


Unfortunately the manual provided in the Thor Owner's portal is useless as it shows installation for a Ford or Chevy truck, and it doesn't even appear to be the same model mirror.



Has anyone replaced their mirrors on their own, and if so how involved is it? I am sure I can do it if the connector is easily accessible, but I am a little worried about how they may have done it at the factory.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Something to consider IF you replace the entire mirror... especially with aftermarket:

When I bought my F-150 for towing, I had the dealer install the manual extending "pull-out" mirrors usually found on F-250 and up. The mirrors themselves are motorized "power" mirrors.

Surprise... the factory plug didn't match up. so I have "manual " mirrors that are power mirror capable - if I wanted to go in and splice/cut/reconfigure wiring.

So... I've had manual mirrors for 4+ years! But no biggie... I've never had to adjust them in those 4 years.

[ducksface]

I've written this up before but unfortunately it was not in my signature thread.
There is no fun to be had in any of the four mount types.
It's contortion and a fairly well equipped tool box and bad words and raw fiberglas and blind wiring connections.
It is well worth taking it to a body shop to have them removed.

Also
Chrome plating is expensive but not nearly as expensive as the prep required.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I've written this up before but unfortunately it was not in my signature thread.
There is no fun to be had in any of the four mount types.
It's contortion and a fairly well equipped tool box and bad words and raw fiberglas and blind wiring connections.
It is well worth taking it to a body shop to have them removed.

Also
Chrome plating is expensive but not nearly as expensive as the prep required.

Said the wise man... 100% agree!
. .

[Mr Sunshine]

My 2016 Vegas had that issue under warranty and Thor sent new complete mirrors and arms. I did the swap, and there were long enough cables attached to reach the radio unit. I'd try pulling the mirrors myself before running it to a body shop. Just IMHO...

[mcpandt]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Something to consider IF you replace the entire mirror... especially with aftermarket:

When I bought my F-150 for towing, I had the dealer install the manual extending "pull-out" mirrors usually found on F-250 and up. The mirrors themselves are motorized "power" mirrors.

Surprise... the factory plug didn't match up. so I have "manual " mirrors that are power mirror capable - if I wanted to go in and splice/cut/reconfigure wiring.

So... I've had manual mirrors for 4+ years! But no biggie... I've never had to adjust them in those 4 years.

Thanks for the heads up Chateu. That really stinks, but like you I rarely adjust either of the mirrors, but the camera is essential. I will be using OEM parts only if I replace, and I don't plan on replacing the entire mirror. I found the original Velvac mirror for $550 to $800 online, but the base that I need is also available for $150.

[mcpandt]

Originally Posted by Mr Sunshine

My 2016 Vegas had that issue under warranty and Thor sent new complete mirrors and arms. I did the swap, and there were long enough cables attached to reach the radio unit. I'd try pulling the mirrors myself before running it to a body shop. Just IMHO...

Thanks,


That's how I am leaning. I was assuming that like the back camera, the connection would be at the mirror rather than running all the way to the multiplexor under the dash. The mirror remote control and video seem to terminate in a 4 way harness connector and the multiplexor takes a single male connector per camera. I really hope to avoid having to fish the cable through.


How hard was it to pull the mirrors?

[mcpandt]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I've written this up before but unfortunately it was not in my signature thread.
There is no fun to be had in any of the four mount types.
It's contortion and a fairly well equipped tool box and bad words and raw fiberglas and blind wiring connections.
It is well worth taking it to a body shop to have them removed.

Also
Chrome plating is expensive but not nearly as expensive as the prep required.

Thanks, that's part of my reason for asking. I have a really good shop back in Florida who could do the work if I go that route, but I am in Oregon for the next several months and I don't know anyone out here well enough to have them do the work. The wiring is what worries me the most.

[mcpandt]

Update:


Just found this on YouTube and it looks like I can remove the mirror from the base, disconnect the wiring between base and mirror, replace the base and reconnect wiring. Actually two separate connections out of the mirror, one for video and one for remote control and heating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfDb79JD3ck

Thanks everyone for your input.

[Sappy2]

These are typically Velvac on a class A, or if a C, it may be a Ford mirror or Velvac (or something else).

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by mcpandt

Update:


Just found this on YouTube and it looks like I can remove the mirror from the base, disconnect the wiring between base and mirror, replace the base and reconnect wiring. Actually two separate connections out of the mirror, one for video and one for remote control and heating.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Good find!

I've had my passenger mirror apart to that point and did not see the connectors. I guess I didn't pull the wires out far enough?

Please document your repair and show us how you did it. This peeling chrome is a very common issue on these Velvac mirror bases.

[mcpandt]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Good find!

I've had my passenger mirror apart to that point and did not see the connectors. I guess I didn't pull the wires out far enough?

Please document your repair and show us how you did it. This peeling chrome is a very common issue on these Velvac mirror bases.

Will do! I am ordering the new arms today.

[Eeeride]

I just replaced the peeling chrome bases on both my Velvac mirrors (2017 29M). Very easy to replace - removing the whole mirror after cutting the caulk and pulling out the wires until you can disconnect. The mirror tops come off with 3 Allan set nuts and then a split collar ring to keep the mirror in place. There were lots of different mirror bases available and a couple quick emails to the distributor ensured I ordered the correct ones the first time. As a side note: we did try to strip the chrome off the original bases, but the underlying material was corroded and not able to be either repainted or re-chromed. Replacing and recaulking was relatively easy.

[VetPartTimer]

Originally Posted by Eeeride

I just replaced the peeling chrome bases on both my Velvac mirrors (2017 29M). Very easy to replace - removing the whole mirror after cutting the caulk and pulling out the wires until you can disconnect. The mirror tops come off with 3 Allan set nuts and then a split collar ring to keep the mirror in place. There were lots of different mirror bases available and a couple quick emails to the distributor ensured I ordered the correct ones the first time. As a side note: we did try to strip the chrome off the original bases, but the underlying material was corroded and not able to be either repainted or re-chromed. Replacing and recaulking was relatively easy.

Would you mind sharing the cost of the new bases?

I would like/need to do this as well, my biggest concern is that the new bases will start bubbling in 1-2 years also, as these appear to be substandard quality. If they are relatively cheap, I'll consider.

Thanks!!!

[Eeeride]

Hey VetPartTimer,

My cost for both bases was $314. I emailed Jack@PacificRvParts.com to get the right arms the first time.

[VetPartTimer]

Originally Posted by Eeeride

Hey VetPartTimer,

My cost for both bases was $314. I emailed Jack@PacificRvParts.com to get the right arms the first time.

Great info, much appreciated!!!!