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Old 03-12-2016, 01:51 PM   #1
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Spring right around the corner...

Given that we have some nice weather today and the fact that its supposed to stay warm for the next week or so (warm being 50s and up) I took the time to take the cover off the camper. Step 1 for dewinterizing it...

I also took it for a spin and topped off the gas tank. I burned about 20 gallons of gas just running the engine & genny over the course of the winter. A lot more than prior seasons.

It survived the winter pretty well; with only the drivers side mirror coming loose--I must have had the cover too tight there.

This is a good two or three weeks earlier than I've done this the past two seasons (The first year we got the Axis we went camping in late April and it still was freezing out). Local forecasters here are predicting a very warm spring & summer...hmm have to make sure the A/C is good to go.

Still have a good month, though, before we take it camping. In addition I still have a few things to do to get it ready for camping:
  • Flush out the antifreeze
  • Sanitize the water system
  • A good wash inside/out
  • Check tire air pressures
  • Get a new house battery
  • Check all the fatmat--make sure its all still there
  • Finish any remaining mods for the year
  • Go camping!
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
....cut....

This is a good two or three weeks earlier than I've done this the past two seasons (The first year we got the Axis we went camping in late April and it still was freezing out). Local forecasters here are predicting a very warm spring & summer...hmm have to make sure the A/C is good to go.

.....cut.....
What's typical timing for de-winterizing that far north?

About 20 years ago I was in Kalamazoo on May 1st and it was snowing -- and very cold. Do most campers risk de-winterizing early knowing they may have to do it again?
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance
What's typical timing for de-winterizing that far north?

About 20 years ago I was in Kalamazoo on May 1st and it was snowing -- and very cold. Do most campers risk de-winterizing early knowing they may have to do it again?
Usually I'm dewinterizing around the first two weeks in April. We've been camping in Northern Michigan in May when its snowed. In those cases it usually doesn't get cold enough to freeze the water in the camper--the water hose outside may freeze a little; but haven't had one burst. In fact, in the 17 years we've had a camper of some sort we've never had any of the pipes freeze.

In late April and May it may get down to freezing outside overnight, but that temperature usually happens around sunrise and then it quickly rises when the sun comes up. Thus it doesn't stay freezing long enough to get the camper cold. Once or twice I've brought a camper home so I could run the furnace overnight to keep it warm in the 17 years.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:59 PM   #4
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I have no clue how to dewinterize my Axis.

Anyone have a step by step guide with pictures? Video?

I'm a visual learner!
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:22 PM   #5
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Dewinterizing is pretty easy: Setup all the valves to normal and pump water through the system.

I'm sure Ed has the procedure in his manual:
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f17...ists-2488.html

Which Axis do you have?
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:20 PM   #6
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I have the 24.1
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:36 AM   #7
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All your valves are below the passenger rear bed and behind the cold air return.

I can reach everything by removing the panel the bed rests on (in my camper its held down by two screws).

With that removed:
  • Low point drain valves: Closed (easy to identify as one side of these valves disappears into the floor)
  • Tank drain valve: Closed
  • Tank to pump valve: Open
  • Hot water valve (on the hot line on the water heater): Open
  • Cold water valve (on the cold line on the water heater): Open
  • Hot/Cold transfer valve (goes between hot and cold on the water heater): Closed
Fill the tank with some water, open a sink, turn on the pump, close the sink, then go to each faucet opening each side until clear water runs out (I start with the outside shower and let it run a bit).
Once you have clear water coming out of all your faucets you're dewinterized.

At this point it is also a good idea to sanitize the system: Drain the water tank, fill with a bleach/water solution, run that through all the faucets like above, let it sit for a while, drain tank and fill with fresh water, repeat faucet flush procedure.

I believe Ed's manual has all of this to much greater detail.
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:29 PM   #8
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Thanks Jamie. If you have the manual, I would love to check it out. I will PM you my email address.

I reached out to Ed, but I'm not sure how often he checks his email.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:39 PM   #9
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RV -- never saw your email. Send me another at bevedfelker@live.com and I'll send the manual.
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Old 03-13-2016, 04:08 PM   #10
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Im with Jamie, in early April, but each season is different, this year has been a mild winter her in Michigan at least lower MI. We might de-winterize early this year so we can camp in April.

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Old 03-13-2016, 06:49 PM   #11
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What's a fatmat
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:57 PM   #12
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FatMat: Amazon: Fatmat sound proofing

Self-adhesive sound proofing that I added inside the engine compartment. I had noticed last summer that some if it that I put in place fell down.
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
FatMat: Amazon: Fatmat sound proofing

Self-adhesive sound proofing that I added inside the engine compartment. I had noticed last summer that some if it that I put in place fell down.
Is this the same item? Do you think adhesive could be getting too hot and releasing over time? This spec shows 100*C (212*F) continuous.

FatMat xTreme Liner Kit Sound Dampener | FatMat Sound Controlâ„¢
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:50 PM   #14
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FatMat: Amazon: Fatmat sound proofing

Self-adhesive sound proofing that I added inside the engine compartment. I had noticed last summer that some if it that I put in place fell down.
Had the same happen last year also. I used some 3M or Loctite spray contact adhesive to keep it in place. So far all is ok under the hood going thru last summer and a west coast trip. It is very aggressive and you only get one chance to position your pieces.
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance
Is this the same item? Do you think adhesive could be getting too hot and releasing over time? This spec shows 100*C (212*F) continuous.
I don't think it was heat. I had applied it to the underside of the dash on the far left & right sides of the engine compartment (including blocking the holes into the A-Pillars). Those are the pieces that fell on me. They probably fell for a couple of reasons:
  • It was difficult to get my arm in there and position them correctly causing me to stick them, remove them, and re-stick them repeatedly
  • There are a lot of fasteners sticking down from the dash that would prevent good contact by the self-adhesive
  • I'm sure it gets pretty windy and turbulent in there
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:19 PM   #16
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That is the reason when I did my doghouse I went with DynaMat rather than FatMat. Numerous reviews indicated the adhesive used by FatMat is not conducive to installation on vertical or overhead installations. They also stated that the adhesive used is primarily for roofing applications and meant to be horizontal and not overhead.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:46 PM   #17
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I used a foil faced duct insulation under the hood. It was quite sticky, but did not hold in the heat. Could have been that the underside of ducts, dash etc. may not have been as clean as it should have been even though I had washed and dried it.
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Old 03-14-2016, 05:47 PM   #18
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I used a foil faced duct insulation under the hood. It was quite sticky, but did not hold in the heat. Could have been that the underside of ducts, dash etc. may not have been as clean as it should have been even though I had washed and dried it.
A potential issue that would concern me a little is that when you stick any insulation with a sticky side to a metal surface like the underside of a hood, the adhesive side remains relatively cool because the metal hood can transfer heat to the surrounding air.

On the other hand when it's applied to areas that are partially insulated, or where fresh cool air can't keep the adhesive side as cool, then the adhesive "may" not perform as originally intended.

I'm not sure how the 100*C temperature rating for FatMat was determined. Is that the equivalent of 100*C air underhood with actual hood much cooler, or is it like applying the insulation inside an oven at 100*C where all parts are exposed to same temperature? There could be a lot of difference depending on how it's tested.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance
A potential issue that would concern me a little is that when you stick any insulation with a sticky side to a metal surface like the underside of a hood, the adhesive side remains relatively cool because the metal hood can transfer heat to the surrounding air.
The only metal in the front of an Axis/Vegas is the engine, and frame. The surrounding structure is fiberglass and wood. Where I stuck the fatmat too (the underside of the dash) is primarily plywood.
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
FatMat: Amazon: Fatmat sound proofing

Self-adhesive sound proofing that I added inside the engine compartment. I had noticed last summer that some if it that I put in place fell down.
Jamie...the 2016 has the mat in place...Ron found it when looking at the battery access..under the board, is this mat...fortunately, we did not have to cut it to access the battery as our problem was resolved for the moment.
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