Steering Issues - Page 3

Retired Soldier! · 09-22-2014, 07:28 PM

I'm taking my brand new 2015 Thor Windsport 32N in Oct 15 on the way a home from the Hersey show ( that's where we bought it) I got a rattle in the drivers side front sounds like a broke shock! Also it sways a lot could be the shock and I know the alignment because the steering wheel is off center! I'm not talking a little sway I mean enough to where my wife got physically sick! Also the damn window washer doesn't spray out at all! I paid 500 for prep for what!

TEUSeller · 09-23-2014, 01:05 AM

I know this sounds trite, but I bought an ACE 30.1 and the first few months were spent fixing an endless litany of stupid issues. We're getting them nailed down finally. I've come to accept the fact that we're not buying a Mercedes or even a Chevy. It's like the difference between a nice block home made with good shingles and drywall versus a mobile home. If we want the construction quality of even a low end Chevy in a vehicle of this size and complexity, we should expect to spend a couple of hundred grand.
I have always had a minimalist budget when it comes to this stuff. I went through it with our pop up and later with our travel trailer. For what we pay, I find we're extremely fortunate to get this much.
I also started reading the fine details and realized I over inflated the tires. The tires say 110psi, but the manufacturer says 82. It rides much better now.

Good luck.

FW28z · 09-23-2014, 02:41 AM

I guess at some point you have to consider a moho is just a high-end version of a tent (although it is a shame it is so much more expensive).

RichyFL · 09-23-2014, 03:16 AM

Yeah, I have been getting our 2011 Hurricane set up after purchased it. I see many places they cut corners. I also found Thor does not have a point to point wiring diagram or schematic. Things like that would build my confidence in them as a builder. In upgrading I have found objects left over from manufacturing that could have lead to something failing.

As far as your alignment, you need to set the couch up as you would have it driving down the road... Water, propane fuel, goodies you hall with you. This way the weight and distribution will be the same... Then take it to be alignened! This will make a HUGE difference. I also put on the RSSA stabilizer. I highly recommend nitrogen in all the tires, works good on aircraft and race cars and I have used it since 2008.

Jvsnyder · 09-21-2015, 03:31 AM

We purchased our Thor Ace 29.3 in May. We are on an across USA trip starting in N FL. After fighting the swaying for 3000 miles, we went to Roadmaster and had an anti sway bar put on the rear. We already had a steering stabilizer put on. The sway bar made a huge difference and worth the $1000. It is a shame we have to put so much into it to make it safer to drive.

blw2 · 09-21-2015, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jvsnyder

We purchased our Thor Ace 29.3 in May. We are on an across USA trip starting in N FL. After fighting the swaying for 3000 miles, we went to Roadmaster and had an anti sway bar put on the rear. We already had a steering stabilizer put on. The sway bar made a huge difference and worth the $1000. It is a shame we have to put so much into it to make it safer to drive.

From my research, this rear bar (Panhard Rod), after proper alignment and tire pressure, is the single best solution at best pointing to the problem with these leaf spring chassis. The front stabilizers are a solution for a different problem that help by masking....

I found that my E-450 chassis handles really quite well with the factory damper and no additional stabilizers.... but AFTER I properly adjusted the tire pressures based on weight and had the alignment done.

I still have a lack of center in my steering, which apparently is due to a lack of enough positive angle caster, which with the factory set up is not possible. Aftermarket bushing are apparently required, based on some experience from some more knowledgeable than me on another forum.
This lack of center isn't nearly the nuisance that it was when I was running higher tire pressures..... but I'd still like to get the blow out protection from a safe t steer or similar.... and I'd like to get the added stability from a panhard rod.... but it's now a lower priority for me and hard to justify the money to DW....

I agree, it's a shame these things aren't built ready to go. Amazing really.

Chance · 09-21-2015, 02:02 PM

Doesn't Ford provide front and rear stabilizer bars on all F53 chassis, and front track bars on all but the 16,000 pound GVWR chassis as standard? And even on the 16,000-pound chassis it's listed as an option in the 2014 specs.

Most chassis include 1-1/2 inch diameter bars so I'm not sure how much bigger you'd want to make them if already present. Is it possible they are being deleted or not being installed?

I think what is often overlooked is that these are truck-based chassis that are crude in design on multiple levels. There is a reason why passenger vehicles rarely use live axles and leaf springs. Trucks still do out of necessity but it's inherently going to lead to poor handling and or ride quality. That's not to say some can't be set up better than others, but they will not handle and ride like personal vehicles.

With modern Class A motorhomes being over 12-feet tall, one of my biggest concerns is a chassis with spring centers in the range of only 42 inches controlling a motorhome with such a high center of gravity. I can visualize these big boxes going down the road rolling side to side. And adding heavier sway bars can only do so much before it causes other problems. These RVs are 3-1/2 times as high as the springs are spaced apart (granted part is below springs), but tendency to sway is inherently built-in.

I'm also concerned with too many of these front-engined gasoline Class As having too long a rear overhang which shifts the center of pressure too far back. On Class Cs I've driven the longer the rear overhang the harder they were to steer straight when trucks passed by.

I think motorhomes could be designed to ride and handle a lot better but it would require compromises, including higher costs.

Fred g · 09-21-2015, 02:34 PM

We had the same problem when we had our Mandalay Presidio diesel pusher. Semi's would not affect us, but a large box truck would push us it seemed like several feet! A retired trucker and RVer that I met on the road, told me to do like truckers. They are in the habit of checking their side view mirror every 10 seconds. If you know it is coming, you can prepare for it. I took his advise and it really helped. Not only was I able to identify which type of truck had the most effect on our MH, I learned how to minimize the effect of it.

Fred

Phil Saran · 09-21-2015, 05:47 PM

When I first got my 34E Hurricane I had the same handling problems, now after
correcting the tire pressure, front end alignment and adding a steering stabilizer
the MH is decent to drive. Mine came with sway bars front & rear. Does mine need
a rear track bar? Maybe yes maybe no. Only time and miles driven will tell me that.

But also know you can not drive these MH's 70 plus MPH, it just does not work. If
you have the need to keep up with fast traffic then move up to a diesel pusher with
air bag suspension.

TEUSeller · 09-21-2015, 11:54 PM

We recently traded in our trusty ACE for a Miramar 34.1 I drive the ACE at between 60 and 65. It was happy there. The Miramar is larger, heavier, and more stable at all speeds but even it prefers driving at 60-65.
I use to drive Semi's and they were rock solid at 60 to 65. You get much over that and they start to become a handful. A lot of speed to manage at that mass.
My observation only. Everyone has a view. I like pleasant driving, and I find those speeds best for that on the Interstate. Driving slightly slower than the average traffic in a heavy vehicle tends to provide you a nice supply of braking room in front of you. I like that.

Fred g · 09-22-2015, 02:24 PM

Every state has different laws, but a lot of states have a maximum speed limit for towed vehicles. That also applies if you are dinghy towing. Some of the states eve have a maximum overall length. Don't know of anyone ever getting pulled over for these, but I like staying at 60 mph. More control, less braking distance, less affected by Trucks going by and better fuel economy. I am in an RV and not in a hurry to get anywhere.

Fred

bendigaetano · 11-14-2015, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichyFL

I just purchased a 2011 Hurricane on the F53 frame. Going to dolly tow an Escape. I did notice it liked to track ruts. I opted for the Road master RSS stabilizer. Haven't installed it yet but I am pretty sure it should settle that down. These units have some large torsion links in them and I am not sure those $600 axle plates are worth it. Maybe air bags to help the load. I am also going with Nitrogen in the tires, seems to work well for race cars and aircraft and I have it in all my vehicles, really made a difference. Anyone using the RSS?

I have a 2014 THOR Windsport. I installed the RSS after I drove the MH from the dealer home. The steering was terrible. The MH wandered all over the road prior to the RSS and after, I can drive it with one hand with semis passing or me passing the semis. I can hold my speed at about 62 to 64 with no appreciable wandering. The winds are still unpredictable and I'm considering airbags for the rear.

Roadking · 02-12-2018, 11:08 PM

Yes, I agree
My Thor 23H is on. Ford E350. Bought it new and experienced all the white knuckle driving problems I read about on this forum.
I can’t enjoy the rig if I have to fight it all the time . A commercial truck repair shop is the way to go.
First step upgrade rear sway bar and steering stabilizer with Roadmaster products. Upgrade shocks with Bilsteins
Second, I have an appointment with commercial truck shop to have drive axle and steering wheel alignment, reposition steering stabilizer and take some play out of the steering wheel. Lastly balance all tires if needed. Not cheap but worth it to me
Let you know

If anyone else went this route please let me know

Bob Denman · 02-12-2018, 11:19 PM

One thing to remember: everything seems about ten times tougher, if you're tensed-up.

It's pretty understandable that the "Pucker Factor" goes up when we get behind the wheel of a rig that can cost more than a lot of houses!

Try taking a deep breath, and lighten the "white-knuckle death-grip" that you have on the wheel... It'll make you feel loads more confident, and things won't seem to be nearly as bad.

Roadking · 02-12-2018, 11:23 PM

True

jeannineallen · 03-12-2018, 03:47 PM

I would like to know how this worked out for you. Not enjoying the white knuckle experience either. Thought it was just us having this issue until I started seeing where others have posted about adding steering stabilizers. Would love to know what brands and should there be stabilizers on front and back people recommend? TIA

blw2 · 03-12-2018, 05:24 PM

I agree with Bob, in that a relaxed grip and more confidence goes a long way. I can see where folks that have never driven a truck, or anything but new and tight cars would be very intimidated. I understand that some of these rigs are more problematic than others, but I think with a little practice to build confidence a huge fraction of the 'problem' goes away.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadking

....
First step upgrade rear sway bar and steering stabilizer with Roadmaster products. Upgrade shocks with Bilsteins
Second, I have an appointment with commercial truck shop to have drive axle and steering wheel alignment, reposition steering stabilizer and take some play out of the steering wheel. Lastly balance all tires if needed. Not cheap but worth it to me
Let you know

If anyone else went this route please let me know

I disagree about the order of steps...
It's been written many times before, so to beat a dead horse...tire pressure.

I think that correct tire pressure based on weight should be #1
#2 would be the alignment
#3 should be giving it a chance, for long enough to get a little used to it......
then start spending money on gadgets if it's still needed.

I've had some experience driving both larger 1 ton trucks as well as older and looser trucks going into this RV adventure
and I was about ready to spend some money because of the poor handling....
but after setting the pressure and getting the alignments done I found that there's not really a problem.

I'd still like to have a saf t plus or similar installed, but for it's intended purpose of stabilization in case of blow out....not because I need it routinely for just driving....but it's lower priority for sure.

jwcorry · 03-12-2018, 08:44 PM

For what it's worth after all the foregoing discussion -- We have a 2014 ACE 29.2 and experienced all the handling issues previously mentioned. Forget about Thor or Ford providing any help re same -- ain't going to happen. I installed Roadmaster front and rear anti-sway bars (rear supplements existing sway bar / front is a replacement for OEM) as well as a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer (primarily for blowout mitigation) in addition to having it aligned (at full traveling weight). This setup helped considerably with overall stability including on a 4400 mile trip from TN to CA and back (4 days each way). I recently also installed SumoSprings on the front and SuperSprings on the rear - this resulted in a slightly increased improvement, and is about as good as it can get for a 30 foot box going down our horribly maintained highways at 65 MPH.

TyCreek · 03-12-2018, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FW28z

You might try Air Tabs. The people that have them swear by them...

Airtab: Aerodynamic fuel savers for truck, tractor, trailer, bus, RV

OMG ROTF...

An old thread but damn that was priceless!

steve76 · 03-13-2018, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blw2

I agree with Bob, in that a relaxed grip and more confidence goes a long way. I can see where folks that have never driven a truck, or anything but new and tight cars would be very intimidated. I understand that some of these rigs are more problematic than others, but I think with a little practice to build confidence a huge fraction of the 'problem' goes away.

I disagree about the order of steps...
It's been written many times before, so to beat a dead horse...tire pressure.

I think that correct tire pressure based on weight should be #1
#2 would be the alignment
#3 should be giving it a chance, for long enough to get a little used to it......
then start spending money on gadgets if it's still needed.

I've had some experience driving both larger 1 ton trucks as well as older and looser trucks going into this RV adventure
and I was about ready to spend some money because of the poor handling....
but after setting the pressure and getting the alignments done I found that there's not really a problem.

I'd still like to have a saf t plus or similar installed, but for it's intended purpose of stabilization in case of blow out....not because I need it routinely for just driving....but it's lower priority for sure.

I've played with tire pressure on mine and not noticed much difference. Started with recommended on vehicle sticker and went up and down 5 lbs. each way. No noticable difference for me on fairly smooth freeway at 65 mph.
What pressures can you recommend not fully loaded and loaded? I have a Thor F.E. 22FE class C Ford E350 chassis and have been all over Ford's recommended sites for tires and pressures. Tires on my rig are Hankooks and I also think different tires can produce different results but hella expensive to see. Am going to have trac bar added before summer. What tires are you running on yours?

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