STORE/USE question - Page 3

Metalman · 01-29-2018, 12:02 AM

That is similar to the knife switch that I use to separate the battery negative terminals from the ground. Old, but simple technology.

blw2 · 01-31-2018, 07:03 PM

I went a bit fancier with mine...
https://www.gamainc.com/product/bs200/

I was going to go fancier still.... with a marine type battery switch, but it was hard to justify the $$

Bob Denman · 01-31-2018, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metalman

That is similar to the knife switch that I use to separate the battery negative terminals from the ground. Old, but simple technology.

It's old and simple: just like me!

JamieGeek · 01-31-2018, 07:57 PM

I have a knife switch on the chassis battery and a marine type sealed switch (like this (Amazon) one) on the house battery.

Bob Denman · 01-31-2018, 08:18 PM

Why did you want to separate the chassis battery from the house battery?

JamieGeek · 01-31-2018, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Why did you want to separate the chassis battery from the house battery?

If you are asking me: Both of those are the individual battery disconnects. The knife switch disconnects the chassis battery and the marine switch disconnects the house battery (sadly only one in ours).

Bob Denman · 01-31-2018, 11:07 PM

I was...

So the Chassis battery isn't connected to the House battery?

Or is it?

Oneilkeys · 02-01-2018, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

I was...

So the Chassis battery isn't connected to the House battery?

Or is it?

The house and chassis batteries are connected thru the BIRD/Trombetta or BCC (battery control center) at least in the Axis/Vegas. They separate the battery banks when the engine is off and not on shore power/generator. When the BIRD or BCC senses 13.8v on the engine battery - meaning that the alternator is supplying power to the chassis battery- it opens the Trombetta allowing both battery banks to charge off the alternator. It works similarly when shore power is plugged in or the generator is working. When the engine is turned off and the RV is not on shore power/generator and when the batteries drop below 13.1v the BIRD opens the Trombetta, disconnecting the battery banks - so you don’t run down your chassis battery when you run down your house batteries.
The emergency start switch bypasses the system and connects the two battery banks temporarily so you can use your house batteries to start your engine.

JamieGeek · 02-01-2018, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

I was...

So the Chassis battery isn't connected to the House battery?

Or is it?

(My Vegas has the BCC.) When in "Store" both batteries have independent parasitic draws on my coach and thus it is possible for both to drain completely if I leave them on "Store" for any length of time without disconnecting them.

Thus I have two disconnects (both on the ground terminal), one for each.

Whirnot · 02-01-2018, 02:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

(My Vegas has the BCC.) When in "Store" both batteries have independent parasitic draws on my coach and thus it is possible for both to drain completely if I leave them on "Store" for any length of time without disconnecting them.

Thus I have two disconnects (both on the ground terminal), one for each.

What do you consider any length of time? Mine is fine for a couple of months. I do however shut the girard Water heater off at the unit, as it has power even with the switch in store....... (self protection device)

gmc · 02-01-2018, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whirnot

What do you consider any length of time? Mine is fine for a couple of months. I do however shut the girard Water heater off at the unit, as it has power even with the switch in store....... (self protection device)

You're in the lucky category... with me... lol
My rig can easily go months with just the normal house disconnect in store - both house and chassis batteries remain charged and happy with no interventions.

Others have measured in days to a week the parasitic draw from something(s) killing one or both batteries - and added disconnects as a simpler fix than chasing the draws...

JamieGeek · 02-01-2018, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whirnot

What do you consider any length of time? Mine is fine for a couple of months. I do however shut the girard Water heater off at the unit, as it has power even with the switch in store....... (self protection device)

For our first full winter (we picked up our unit in Feb 2014 so I don't consider that a full winter) the house battery wouldn't last more than a month or so on Store--ended up replacing it (yeah it was a Harris battery) and installing the disconnect there. The chassis battery easily lasted in that time without disconnecting.

The second full winter the chassis battery stopped lasting that long so I put a disconnect there (battery still seems good thankfully since I don't want to be digging into the dash to replace it).

With both switches in place both batteries are good to go in the spring (with periodically running engine and genny during the winter).

Metalman · 02-01-2018, 12:45 PM

I bought a new 1995 GMC custom van in early 1996. It was not used much during the winter and the battery would loose its charge in a week or so, to the point that it would not start the engine. That's when I installed a "Battery Buddy" (now called "PriorityStart"). The device attaches to the positive battery post and the + battery cable attaches to the other side of the device. When the Battery Buddy senses enough of a drain on the battery it opens a switch and disconnects the battery from the vehicle. The model, which I still have and still use on the van, is an early one so the hood must be raised and a button pressed to reconnect the battery to the van. The newer models reactivate when a minute amount of electricity is used, such as stepping on the brake.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-priori...BoCrZ4QAvD_BwE

Bob Denman · 02-01-2018, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

(My Vegas has the BCC.) When in "Store" both batteries have independent parasitic draws on my coach and thus it is possible for both to drain completely if I leave them on "Store" for any length of time without disconnecting them.

Thus I have two disconnects (both on the ground terminal), one for each.

Mine is a "Quick-Drainer"

Perhaps a second switch to protect the chassis battery is in order... Thanks!

Emmett · 02-02-2018, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laco

The way these Thor's are wired, plugging into shore power when stored with the use store switch in store defeats the purpose of connecting to shore power. On a Thor, that switch must in the use position, for the converter/inverter (if you have one) to charge and maintain the house batteries. On my previous coach, there was a 12 volt disconnect switch. Mattered not how that switch was set, inverter always charged house batteries when plugged in. Since I have 110 volts available where I store, I always store connected to shore power, with the switch in use.

I can see why Thor has changed the way they deal with this in several 2018 models. The power is now always on while plugged into shore power. The batteries are being charged. There is no Use/Store switch. When not plugged in or running the generator, you can turn house power on or off.

So plugged in = always on.
Generator = always on.
Not plugged in or gen = on or off.

Pete

Metalman · 02-02-2018, 01:19 PM

I had a 1999 motor home and when it was plugged into the shore power with the coach battery switch in the store position, 12-volt power for refrigerator, water pump, lights, etc., was being supplied by the converter. I suspect that situation could be bad for some of the devices and also for the converter. For instance when the converter was supplying 12-volts to the water pump, the lights would flicker according to the cadence of the pump. I am not sure if that happens with our Windsport.

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