Thor Gray and Black water valve

[sky_blue]

Glad it worked out for you, Doc. I emptied yesterday and the site water hose was broken - just had a plug on the end. That was so much fun hooking up to the tornado :-). I was soaked.

[TerryJames]

Hi Carol,
Attached photos of how the dump connection should look. If your dump connection hole in the floor of the compartment is so far off you cannot easily connect that's got to be a warranty problem! Suggest you send photos of your connection to Thor. As mentioned several times before in this forum, the dealers often overlook the details of dump hose connections/rotation in their PDI. They should have caught this one. This hose connection is often VERY tight the first few times to rotate ... almost to the point one would expect that you're putting so much rotation force on it, it's going to break! And one really has to have rubber gloves on to reach underneath the box with one hand to more easily push/pull the connection rotation. ... But not lining up as bad as you have when fully rotated to point straight down has to be a definite warranty fix. Best Regards, James

[Ag&Au]

This looked like as good a place as any to post this question.

I use a sewer solution to dump our tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-Sewe.../dp/B000Z9G2D0

The position of the moho's gray tank dump valve is such that it interferes with the water hose attachment to the sewer solution. If I could rotate the valve handle up 90 degrees it should be fine. Looking at the valve it looks like I can remove 4 bolts and 4 nuts and rotate the valve and replace the hardware. Before I make a problem that requires more work:

Does anyone know of a reason this won't work?

Ken

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

This looked like as good a place as any to post this question.

I use a sewer solution to dump our tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-Sewe.../dp/B000Z9G2D0

The position of the moho's gray tank dump valve is such that it interferes with the water hose attachment to the sewer solution. If I could rotate the valve handle up 90 degrees it should be fine. Looking at the valve it looks like I can remove 4 bolts and 4 nuts and rotate the valve and replace the hardware. Before I make a problem that requires more work:

Does anyone know of a reason this won't work?

Ken

One last chance to keep me from doing something dumb.

[EA37TS]

Ken

You should be able to rotate the valve as you suggest.

Now, I wouldn't because my luck would be that once I rotated the valve it would never seal properly again.

[bevedfelker]

Carol -- I'd like to see a picture of your hookup as well. I do not see how you could leave the sewer hose connected to the y-fitting and then rotate it down and route the hose out the hole in the floor as shown in Terry's pictures above. The only way that makes sense to me if the hose is connected, is to not rotate the fitting and route the hose out the open door. If you are doing that, your tanks are not emptying completely.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dstankov

Ken

You should be able to rotate the valve as you suggest.

Now, I wouldn't because my luck would be that once I rotated the valve it would never seal properly again.

That's my major apprehension. I think the valve itself should be OK, but I'm concerned about the gaskets that keep it from dripping to the outside.

Well, nothing ventured nothing gained.

I wonder why no one ever says, "Nothing ventured, nothing lost"

Ken

P.S. Now I know I'm jinxed. I just discovered that this thread I've been posting to is in the wrong forum. Don't tell anyone.

[TerryJames]

Comment on tank flushing :
If I may suggest from doing quite a bit of research it really looks like most of the “tank flushing options” on the market do not in fact flush the tanks unless they have a “straight line into the tank. The exception of course is the wand option and/or the tornado makes. The reason folks are believing the flushing is working is due to the fact they flush the upstream bend which shows in the add-on clear hose connection really well … but do not make it into the tank at all to flush … maybe just bring the level up a little. We have been persuaded by the video link shown here.


"Comparing Tank Flushers in the Clear RV Black Tank"

So we plan to have dual tornados fitted in the black rank of our 2017 Axis 25.2. One at the opposite end from the drain and the other on the inside wall closer to the sensors. We’ll then join to one hose to both and mount the single flushing connection to the body in the space just inside the right of the black tank compartment. We’ll definitely not instal a tornado on the wall shown when you open the black tank compartment ‘cos although it looks easier, there’s not enough room there to install the hose connections and close the compartment door.
We’ll plan to load photos when through.
Trust this is useful
Best Regards, James and Terry

[Ag&Au]

Terry and/or James,

Thanks for the post. It was very demonstrative. Our last RV (a travel trailer) had a tank flush mounted on the side of the black tank. It did the job very well. What I plan to do with this motorhome is to be satisfied on trips with the back flushing we get with the sewer solution. (This second part may not suit some) When we get home I will do a thorough flush with a hose down the toilet. I have the luxury of a sewer clean out to dump the tanks at home, so I can just flush it through.. Otherwise I believe I would add something similar to the tank mounted flusher in the videos.

The videos are a bit skewed for our motorhome, because we don't have anything like the long straight section of black pipe. Our dump outlet is much closer to the tank.

Ken

[Carol]

Finally, here are the photos a couple of you (James & Ed) asked for. As a recap, I found it next to impossible to connect the bayonet mount of the sewer hose to the gray/black tank drain. Once connected, I decided to leave the hose connected until it needed to be replaced. The other problem was misalignment of tank drain with opening in floor of compartment. It takes at least a 45-degree+ turn in hose to go from tank drain to hole in compartment floor. The sewer hose I'm using is a 10-foot "Viper" brand.

I can coil the hose to store it in the sewer compartment. The hose collapses (accordian style) somewhat which reduces its length by some inches. This results in double hose coils in back of compartment and a single coil in front.

Even without compressing the hose, there is still plenty of room for it, but there are double coils next to compartment door. I also place the clear 90-degree elbos (connection to dump station pipe) on top of the coils. Everything seems to ride OK.

To store the hose this way takes one extra step, but less than a minute to do. To set up, I have to pull the hose out the compartment door and then thread it back through the hole in compartment floor. Same when unhooking--must pull hose up through floor hole, then out through the compartment door, and then feed it back into the compartment. Also, Ed, I think the tanks are emptying OK (sure hope so). I do give them a good rinse after dumping and then add water plus tank treatment. If you think this isn't sufficient, please let me know.

[JamieGeek]

Wow it looks like the hole in the floor is directly adjacent to the hatch opening instead of being directly under the sewer outlet. Yeah that is messed up.

I wonder if your dealer could install a new floor with the hole in the proper position (if you are still under warranty) but I think that entire compartment is a single unit so that would probably not be possible. (Or put a 2nd hole in the proper place.)

[bevedfelker]

I would have said the same thing as Jamie. I don't know if the compartment floor can be replaced but for sure, thst hole is in the wrong place.

This really needs to go back to the dealer for warranty repair. Highlight the position of the floor. Also have them check to be sure the Y-joint rotates freely. (It can be stiff but it should rotate without giving you a hernia. Also you said it was difficult to attach the bayonet fitting. That also can be stiff at times, but have them check that as well.

If this is causing you signifant difficulty above and beyond what is normal, I'd demand the entire valve and drain assy be replaced. Ask the dealer to take you to a model on the lot and see if that hole is correct, if you can rotate the Y-fitting, and then route the hose under the RV and up through the hole and then attach the bayonet fitting. If you can do all that on s new model then I'd demand the dealer get with Thor and make yours just like that.

[TerryJames]

Wow, photos are a surprise!
Thinking there’s a chance it could work out OK.
Building on Jamie and Ed’s answers:

• Local Dealer gives estimate for new hole and cover with “snaps” to secure cover.
• Photos to Thor to show the hole is seriously in the wrong place together with dealer's estimate
• Thor approves and Local dealer installs new exit hole and cover with seal … but uses snaps for the cover rather than a screw-in cover.
  The snap cover closure could be easier to remove and reset.
  - Maybe even later drill a hole in the old existing cover to take a hose for a tank clean out like one of the tornados?
  Just thinking
  Certainly would pursue something to aid in easy tank draining.
  Thanks for sharing the photos
  Best Regards,
  James

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by DocMike

Carol, might be an option vs the macerator:

(with some Blue Dawn detergent in the tank)...was quite pleased with the third rinse.

Doc

After your tanks are emptied, dump a cup of Calgon water softener down the toilet, and a cap or three of dawn as well, will help keep the inside of the tank and the liquid level sensors happy

[Carol]

Thanks to everyone for your thoughtful suggestions. Unfortunately, this unit is not under warranty so I am sure any work would be at my expense. If the improvement is worth the $$, then I don't mind paying it---will have to think it over. I will talk to the RV service manager and see what he says. I just bought this unit a few weeks ago, consequently, I am the second owner.

I've read about Calgon water softener before, but have never used it. Is it a liquid or dry product? Do you use it every time after emptying tanks?

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

This looked like as good a place as any to post this question.

I use a sewer solution to dump our tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-Sewe.../dp/B000Z9G2D0

The position of the moho's gray tank dump valve is such that it interferes with the water hose attachment to the sewer solution. If I could rotate the valve handle up 90 degrees it should be fine. Looking at the valve it looks like I can remove 4 bolts and 4 nuts and rotate the valve and replace the hardware. Before I make a problem that requires more work:

Does anyone know of a reason this won't work?

Ken

I did this. It was quick, easy, and works with no leaks.

Ken

[spereira]

Originally Posted by bevedfelker

It baffles me why dealers in their PDI do not show new owners (especially newbies to RVing) how the sewer Y-fitting rotates down, how the access plate screws off, and how the sewer hose is connected by routing it UNDER the RV not through the sewer access door.

I have shown how this works to 4 new Vegas/Axis owners whose dealers left them clueless.

Well, just for the record, Camping World in Berkley, MA, *does* show this particular feature to newbie RVers during their presentation (thankfully!).

We did *not* get shown the TV antenna booster, nor the HDMI input cable for the doorway TV, nor the media input connections for our outside TV. Many thanks to you, Ed, for providing that information in your most valuable manual!

smp

[spereira]

Originally Posted by DocMike

Mo,

If you really wanted to baffle the salesman, you could have asked him to show you how to use the radio for music and rear view camera at the same time...or ask about the TV's and cable vs antenna setups. You will have to spend time reading the threads in this forum, the manuals for the radio and TV's (if you have them) and a few cold beers to get thru these learning curves.

Be patient, good luck and happy camping.

Doc

Thanks for the good laugh! During our presentation, when we got to the dashboard radio, our Tech simply said, "I have no information for you on the radio except how to turn it on and off. You'll have to read the manual for that."

I do understand that there are a variety of radios that go into these units, and they probably change every year. It seems like a *little* bit of familiarity with the radio in the unit being presented could be expected. I guess I appreciate his honesty. I certainly didn't need any guesses at that point.

smp

[curtpg]

17 Vegas 25.3 the sewer hose connection that needs to be rotated down 90 degrees to drain the tanks is so tight I can hardly do it. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks,

Curt

[Travelin' Texans]

[QUOTE=curtpg;70475]17 Vegas 25.3 the sewer hose connection that needs to be rotated down 90 degrees to drain the tanks is so tight I can hardly do it. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks,

Curt[/QU
Lubricate the joints with a silicone spray & rotate them a few times then spray again.
As for rotating the tank valves it shouldn't be a problem. If you use some plumbers grease on the gaskets & the valve gate it will make it easier to operate & seal better.