Tire pressure

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by MrT

R U trying to tell me there are other ways to get a better ride from this truck chassis. I am all ears.

Balancing the front tires helped mine. I guess it depends on your definition. If it means cruising at 65 mph using one hand on the wheel to control and not worrying about side suck and body roll, then, yep, ine rides good. Also reduced the cornering roll.

[Beau388]

Comments in text.

Originally Posted by dkoldman

How long did your Goodyear's last? Mine are 2 years old with 16,000 miles with no signs of wear, they actually still look new if you looking at the threads.

I bought another Goodyear G670 as a spare so that if I ever have an issue and have to call roadside, when they put that tire on, it is done, I don't have to worry about changing back out later when I am safely at home. I am a tire fanatic and do not like having mismatched tires.

Usually unless I personally experience an issue with OEM tires, or they don't last long enough, I will always go with the same OEM tires. Ironically, I had an exception to that last week. My wife has XT5 that came with Michelins, although the tread life was still good, both front tires looked like she had been driving over a barbed wired road It wasn't just a wear pattern, I saw physical separations; I thought she had run over something? Discount tire said maybe they needed rotating more? Anyway the exact same tire was NOT available (prolly for good reason...), so I went with the same OEM Pirelli that came with my Navigator SUV that fits her car as I love the Pirelli All Season Scorpions. They ride smooth.
I carry a spare. Bought a rim and a Sumitomo as a spare. In 2016 got a side wall puncture leaving a Alabama campground from a 2 inch roofing nail. When I got back home to Murray, I bought a replacement to match my spare and put it on the front. The Goodyear from the front became the spare. Lost the inside left due to a shifting belt in 2019. Put the spare on and bought a new Sumitomo as a spare. Leaving Creede, CO the left outside tire developed a fast leak. I limped to a turnoff along the Rio Grande River destroying the tire and camped a day before road service arrived from Alamosa and put the spare on. Called a head and had a Sumitomo waiting at Walmart in Trinidad, CO. Now I had four Sumitomos and a Goodyear spare. When I got back to San Antonio, I bought two more Sumitomos and I still have a Goodyear spare.


Akin to why I will NEVER take the time to put water in FLA batteries, I don't see myself driving my RV to any feed-mills, auto recyclers nor gravel sellers. To what value? Per my tire mfg, for a mere 250 pounds of weight difference on the fronts or rear duals; I would adjust my tire by 10 psi. I have 70 gallon water tank.



Vulcan Materials has a ready mix plant just 3 miles down Mountomery Road from the Village. I have flooded DC VRLA batteries that don't need water group 29 that cost only $89. 12 volts 122 a-hr



So just talking water alone, when I leave on any trip that is 581 pounds of fresh water, when my fresh water tank is at half full I am now 290 pounds lighter; I don't need another weigh to know that; nor do I have any intentions of trying to reduce the air pressure by 10 psi when returning; nor adding 10 psi when I fill the tank again. Throw in the other impacts of gas, holding tanks, fewer bottles of beer on the return trip and to me the weighing thing is just nuts unless you know you have a heavy load. For example if I knew I had 20 gold bars to carry home with me, I would add to tire pressure to around 95 psi, if I had 40 gold bars I would go to 110 psi. More than 40 gold bars; I start chunking things maybe even the DW (temporarily) But you know what, going to get a weigh would be the last thing I would do

But to the point and question of OP, none of the above weighing is going to make his ride smoother to which he seeks. He is NOT overweight and he is within correct specifications. He wants better. At 82 psi, he may not be able to go much lower than that when underweight. In my case, per Goodyear, I could technically go down to 80 psi and be per their specifications; but I don't. I stay at 82 psi.

My understanding is the minimum pressure of 80 psi on the Goodyear G670 tires is to avoid bead-rim separation under severe impact conditions, which I will try to avoid.

[Luke D]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Can you reference where Goodyear says "that the proper tire pressure for a motorhomes on the Ford F53 chassis and Ford V-10, 29 ft or over requires 90 ft and 95 to 100 rear PsI . "?

82 psi works for me because my ride is smoother compared to when I had it at 85 or 90 just playing around. If it is was 81 or 80 when I checked, I would not bother to add air.

Now I can't speak ANYTHING to Cooper, but for Goodyear I have never seen them state what the tire pressure should be based on Chassis alone? I don't doubt it could exist, but if it does it is all predicated on the weight on the axles & tires. There are known standard weight ratings; so it is easy to draw a conclusion based on assumptions without technically getting the exact weight.

But the below is the Goodyear RV Tire Guide. Some tires are rated to go down to 70 psi and lower. My tires the G670 245/R70 19.5 should never be lower than than 80 psi and there is no need to EVER go higher than 82 psi; unless I am going to add something that far exceed my standard weight rating on my yellow sticker. I never do and I never will, thus I have no need to ever weigh; short the one day I may do just due to the curiosity factor; NOT that I expect to suddenly have a smoother ride on the F-53 Chassis

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs...care-guide.pdf

Check any Goodyear store. The F53 chassis can weigh anywhere Fromm 18000 to 22000 depending on the motor home size. Also read the Goodyear side wall recommended cold tire pressure. G70 I believe are 16 or 18 ply. My originals lasted 53450 miles. Rears still had thread. I bought Cooper Works 14 ply because we were going cross country. Our trip was 6853 miles got home two days ago. No issues. Didn’t want to take a chance on my original Goodyear’s. New were way to pricey. Great tires.. even my Thor ACE 30.1 placard calls for front 82 and rears 90 PSI. At 82 I experienced inner and outer wear on the front tread. Camping world checked my alignment and said it was dead on. They told me cause was inflation was to low.
Now at the pressures I run tires still look new and ride was fine.
Everyone has different ideas and experiences. I would never second guess your experience. No one knows your coach better than you. If I ruffled you please except my sincere apology. I was just relating my experience and findings when I purchased tires and talked to manufacturers. I found that the manufacturers cold tire pressure is on the tires for a wear reason not ride comfort.

Be safe, have a great week , nothing but the best

Luke

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

Comments in text.

I carry a spare. Bought a rim and a Sumitomo as a spare. In 2016 got a side wall puncture leaving a Alabama campground from a 2 inch roofing nail. When I got back home to Murray, I bought a replacement to match my spare and put it on the front. The Goodyear from the front became the spare. Lost the inside left due to a shifting belt in 2019. Put the spare on and bought a new Sumitomo as a spare. Leaving Creede, CO the left outside tire developed a fast leak. I limped to a turnoff along the Rio Grande River destroying the tire and camped a day before road service arrived from Alamosa and put the spare on. Called a head and had a Sumitomo waiting at Walmart in Trinidad, CO. Now I had four Sumitomos and a Goodyear spare. When I got back to San Antonio, I bought two more Sumitomos and I still have a Goodyear spare.

D KOLDMAN -Interesting journey to Sumitomos. I hope that nevers happens to me, but it seems like the only real difference is that you willfully wanted Sumitomos and a wheel? Whereas I simply went with Ford and Goodyear Engineering until I see a problem; so I bought a brand new Goodyear tire as spare and DID NOT want a wheel (weight was a factor). When in an emergency; I don't have to take what is available, Roadside assistance will mount my brand new tire on my existing wheel. I didn't see a benefit to have tire already mounted to wheel, I will never change the tire myself and my roadside assistance will mount my new tire on an existing wheel just as they would mount my spare tire and wheel. When I get home, I can have the bad tire later repaired or simply buy a new Goodyear spare later


Vulcan Materials has a ready mix plant just 3 miles down Mountomery Road from the Village.
D KOLDMAN
I am certain I can find a place to weigh my RV; some may be free and some may be very cheap. Given I paid $150 to fill up with Gas at a Sams this morning and $16 more for Propane at a U Haul, cost and proximity is not a factor. I just fail to see the benefit? I mean how often do you have to change your air pressure, and what materially has occurred to make you increase or decrease your tire pressure? Out of 16,000 miles in two years, I bet our total weight has been within +/- 250 pounds 95% of the time. The only exception was about 1,200 miles of travel from Florida when we first bought the RV, we literally had nothing but the clothes we were wearing, the very nice Sales Lady at La Mesa RV in Port St Lucie did throw in a 12 pack of Heinekens, but by the time we got to Birmingham I had reduced that weight by 50%


I have flooded DC VRLA batteries that don't need water group 29 that cost only $89. 12 volts 122 a-hr

D KOLDMAN Had I known this or seen this as an option I would have pursued this before buying my Group 31s 125ah Vmax tanks Pure AGMS. Who is the battery Mfg and where did you buy? I paid $500 for both of mine so obviously cost wasn't the main factor. I wanted maintenance free, capacity - the 122ah is the 2nd most I have seen behind the 125 ah vMax tanks, most of the elite 12vdc batteries were either 105ah or 110ah; the Pure AGMs also does 3 to 4 time more duty cycles but we will see about that. I try to clarify to all that there was NOTHING wrong with my NAPA FLA, I bet they would have made 4 maybe 5 years. I just got tired of the sulfating and cleaning, the etching damage to my new concrete pad for my RV was my last straw. I love my VMax Tanks, I can now go two days when boondocking



My understanding is the minimum pressure of 80 psi on the Goodyear G670 tires is to avoid bead-rim separation under severe impact conditions, which I will try to avoid.

D KOLDMAN
Did you see the Goodyear RV Tire Guide link I posted above? The 80 psi was based on the minimum weight on tires on either front or rear axles. So if I were to go get a weigh and the RV weight on front and rears respectively were 3640lbs ( Single) and 3415lbs (Duals) respectively, I only need 80 psi. According to Goodyear for tires made / mfg since 2/28/06 it does not matter how much lighter the weights may show, 80 psi is the minimum for my G670/R70 19.5 tire, but when I add air, I go to 82 which conforms to my Yellow sticker which just happens to be well within the guidelines of how I actually use and load the RV.

See comments above.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Luke D

Check any Goodyear store. The F53 chassis can weigh anywhere Fromm 18000 to 22000 depending on the motor home size. Also read the Goodyear side wall recommended cold tire pressure. G70 I believe are 16 or 18 ply. My originals lasted 53450 miles. Rears still had thread. I bought Cooper Works 14 ply because we were going cross country. Our trip was 6853 miles got home two days ago. No issues. Didn’t want to take a chance on my original Goodyear’s. New were way to pricey. Great tires.. even my Thor ACE 30.1 placard calls for front 82 and rears 90 PSI. At 82 I experienced inner and outer wear on the front tread. Camping world checked my alignment and said it was dead on. They told me cause was inflation was to low.
Now at the pressures I run tires still look new and ride was fine.
Everyone has different ideas and experiences. I would never second guess your experience. No one knows your coach better than you. If I ruffled you please except my sincere apology. I was just relating my experience and findings when I purchased tires and talked to manufacturers. I found that the manufacturers cold tire pressure is on the tires for a wear reason not ride comfort.

Be safe, have a great week , nothing but the best

Luke

You did not ruffle my feathers, you simply posed a question of doubt and made a statement...

"Not sure why 82 PSI works. Goodyear and Cooper manufacturers say that the proper tire pressure for a motorhomes on the Ford F53 chassis and Ford V-10, 29 ft or over requires 90 ft and 95 to 100 rear PsI . Never understood the 82 PSI "

That was not consistent with my research and I just wanted to know the source? My information actually came from a Goodyear Tire & Truck Center in Dallas area, and also from the Goodyear Tire website and the guide I published. I do not speak of Cooper Tires as I have ZERO knowledge of their tires or what they may say.

Also, you asked me to read the recommended cold tire pressure on my side wall, it says 110 psi MAX that is the same as in the guide that would mean 4540 single / 4410 Dual. Most folks are never any where near where MAX pressure is required.

So in a real sense I was just answering your question as to why some folks run at 82psi or maybe even less for these tires. For Goodyear G670s, it is because it is what Goodyear says to do and what a Goodyear Tire & Truck center who actually was the 1st to explain it to me.

Note the above is not my opinion or experience, it is what Goodyear says, read their RV Tire Guide, it is very thorough and explains it all.

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs...care-guide.pdf

On a side note, I have never been to a Camping World for any type of Service, but if I did and solely based on what I have read on this forum; I guarantee the tires would be the last thing that I let them touch short of being stranded on the highway

[Lt Keefer]

Another agreement with if Camping World said to do it then you are taking the wrong advice. And the side pressure on any tire is max pressure, not recommended normal operating pressure.

[CHS]

Originally Posted by MrT

Do I have to keep my tires at 82 psi or can it be lowered to get a smoother ride ? We are very weight conscious so I am thinking that it would be OK to lower the pressure. We have a Thor 29m Windsport. Is there a way to smother ride ?

I lowered my PSI by 5 on the front and back and lost almost 2 MPG. Brought it back up. The difference was not worth the fuel cost.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by CHS

I lowered my PSI by 5 on the front and back and lost almost 2 MPG. Brought it back up. The difference was not worth the fuel cost.

How many miles did you drive and where and how were this miles driven/?Accurate MPG takes a while to access so if you are basing that on one trip, drive longer and under varied conditions. MPG should not be the deciding factor in determining tire pressures. I would imagine that going to maximum tire pressure the tire is rated would yield the highest MPG but potentially compromise other aspects of driving.

[lwmcguire]

I used F550 pickup trucks for many years towing Farm and Ranch trailers

Also towing the Landmark on many trips primarily in or through mountains

Tire pressure typically at 110 and 115 psig

Ride was OK, i never use tire pressure for ride comfort

Psig is set for handling, safety, and tire life

On the Tuscany 110 in steering axle and drive plus tag

Low air pressure and high tire temperature is the primary cause of sidewall blow outs and tread separation

And milage is impacted. Same as in anything that rolls on tires

It requires energy to flex sidewalls and why the tires heat up

The key is finding the minimum flex for your condition, scales and load charts plus enough extra for a top heavy rig

The lower quality tires will be more likely to wonder on the road if inflation is well above load

Buy good quality tires for the steering axle at a minimum

[Luke D]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

Another agreement with if Camping World said to do it then you are taking the wrong advice. And the side pressure on any tire is max pressure, not recommended normal operating pressure.

So true Camping World as Lazydays are not tire experts but they do know coaches. My experience is my teacher. At the tire pressures I use, I got over 53k on my original tires. My new set of Coopers actually road nicer. On our 6853 mile journey I averaged a little over 9 mpg. Tires look great.

Be safe
Luke

[Travelin' Texans]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

I used F550 pickup trucks for many years towing Farm and Ranch trailers

Also towing the Landmark on many trips primarily in or through mountains

Tire pressure typically at 110 and 115 psig

Ride was OK, i never use tire pressure for ride comfort

Psig is set for handling, safety, and tire life

On the Tuscany 110 in steering axle and drive plus tag

Low air pressure and high tire temperature is the primary cause of sidewall blow outs and tread separation

And milage is impacted. Same as in anything that rolls on tires

It requires energy to flex sidewalls and why the tires heat up

The key is finding the minimum flex for your condition, scales and load charts plus enough extra for a top heavy rig

The lower quality tires will be more likely to wonder on the road if inflation is well above load

Buy good quality tires for the steering axle at a minimum

I totally agree!
To constantly have readjust air pressure because you added 5 gallons of water or a couple more shirts in the closet is ridiculous in my opinion.
The rv & tire manufacturers have the required pressures posted on the rv & the tire sidewall, which is what I'd recommend using. IMHO any tire operating at less than the required pressures are running at an underinflated condition which is asking for tire & handling issues.
It's a heavy duty heavily loaded truck chassis that will constantly have items loaded into that will never be unloaded. Those that claim they "always travel light" or "we never travel with full tanks" are only fooling themselves, sooner rather than later you'll have the rv loaded to the max, so air up the tires.
If you want a nice cushy ride to buy a Cadillac or a Lincoln, none of the FXXX Ford chassis's are known for their nice ride, or great handling.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

I totally agree!
To constantly have readjust air pressure because you added 5 gallons of water or a couple more shirts in the closet is ridiculous in my opinion.
The rv & tire manufacturers have the required pressures posted on the rv & the tire sidewall, which is what I'd recommend using. IMHO any tire operating at less than the required pressures are running at an underinflated condition which is asking for tire & handling issues.
It's a heavy duty heavily loaded truck chassis that will constantly have items loaded into that will never be unloaded. Those that claim they "always travel light" or "we never travel with full tanks" are only fooling themselves, sooner rather than later you'll have the rv loaded to the max, so air up the tires.
If you want a nice cushy ride to buy a Cadillac or a Lincoln, none of the FXXX Ford chassis's are known for their nice ride, or great handling.

We travel with in 200 lbs whether is for a one week or two month trip. The major weight difference is 80 gallons of fuel and 35 gallons when empty. Because we usually travel with the generator running we seldom let the tank get below 1/2 full. The water tank usually has 25 gallons in it and does not really effect our limiting rear axle weight as the tank is in the front right basement compartment. Our coach has its own stuff including clothes. About the only thing that moves from house to Hazel is frozen food, beer, us, two cats and the DirecTV receiver.

[Luke D]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

I totally agree!
To constantly have readjust air pressure because you added 5 gallons of water or a couple more shirts in the closet is ridiculous in my opinion.
The rv & tire manufacturers have the required pressures posted on the rv & the tire sidewall, which is what I'd recommend using. IMHO any tire operating at less than the required pressures are running at an underinflated condition which is asking for tire & handling issues.
It's a heavy duty heavily loaded truck chassis that will constantly have items loaded into that will never be unloaded. Those that claim they "always travel light" or "we never travel with full tanks" are only fooling themselves, sooner rather than later you'll have the rv loaded to the max, so air up the tires.
If you want a nice cushy ride to buy a Cadillac or a Lincoln, none of the FXXX Ford chassis's are known for their nice ride, or great handling.

Amen

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

I fill to 82 PSI prior to driving. During the cruise i see in the TPMS 90 PSI +. Anyone have any ideas on a slow tire pressure leak? I'm down to 70 PSI, and have wet sprayed the tire, valve, stem etc. nothing. I will accept this because its over a month.

Should i take the tire to zero and re fill? This might set the rim seat?

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

I fill to 82 PSI prior to driving. During the cruise i see in the TPMS 90 PSI +. Anyone have any ideas on a slow tire pressure leak? I'm down to 70 PSI, and have wet sprayed the tire, valve, stem etc. nothing. I will accept this because its over a month.

Should i take the tire to zero and re fill? This might set the rim seat?

Sounds like a trip to the tire shop and let them check it out

To reseat a bead properly you have to dismount, clean the bead and rim, typically add bead sealant since there is an issue and then remount

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

Thanks, i am due an oil change at 10,000 miles, i will have the shop look at this, i can only perform the soap suds check. No bubbles, and nails in the tire,.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

OK i am tackling the slow leak problem. I removed the TPMS sensor and tightened the inner core of the valve stem on turn clockwise. Let's see if that helps. I'm sure constant turning of the valve in the stem will snap it off and i need to stop damaging things as i fix em. Stable at 82 PSI.....

[MarkSegelle]

I run my 29M Hurricane at 90 PSI.
Smooth as can be on our chassis.