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Old 06-13-2018, 03:57 PM   #1
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THOR #8829
Trickle charge

My Citation has a battery use/store switch that I use when I put in storage. I notice a lot of RVs in my storage lot use a trickle charger. Is this something I don’t need because of the ability to disconnect my battery, or is there a benefit to using a trickle charger anyhow? Thanks for the help!

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Old 06-13-2018, 04:06 PM   #2
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A Battery Maintainer is always a good idea: assuming that you have the place to plug it in.
Keep your "Use/Store" switch set to "Store", and forget about it!
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:14 PM   #3
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Battery maintainer, not trickle charger, big difference. The maintainer is, or at least the better ones are, smart and will float your batteries once they are fully charged. A true trickle charger will maintain a constant charge, which will seriously shorten battery life. I use a small smart charger for the chassis battery, while in storage, the house batteries are maintained by the converter as the MH is plugged into shore power while stored.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:16 PM   #4
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That's why I said what I said...
I like the ones from Deltran; there are lots of others.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:14 PM   #5
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well, I typed up a very detailed response...got sidetracked for a few minutes and the system logged me out and lost the whole thing.
ugh....

anyway,
these batteries are harmed if discharged too deeply, and/or after a lot of discharge cycles. take them down to deep and they will never again hold a full capacity charge. I've had car batteries that would not take a charge again after two cycles down to near 0 volts
Those starting batteries can't handle much at all.
The "marine/RV Deep Cycle" batteries can handle more, but not truly deep. general rule of thumb I most often see is 50%...never take it below 50% charge... I think the actual limit is less than this, but that's what most folks tend to preach.
Most folks say 50% for golf cart batteries too. people call them "real deep cycle batteries". the are made to handle it more. The trojans in my golf cart came with a manual that said something like 30%...and I'm sure there's a safety factor in that too... but a lot of folks say to use 50% for them too

Point is, don't discharge them too much or put them to bed empty or they won't hold as much moving forward.

so I like to install mechanical switches on all my batteries to physically disconnect them when in storage... you never know if a radio is using a bit of energy to maintain memory...or a CO monitor.... pulling it down while in storage

The other thing is self discharge. These batteries (lead acid) will discharge even when nothing is attached, nothing being used.... it's more complicated than a fixed number, but I've seen 3% to 5% per month and I sorta feel like this is the right ballpark in my experience. So a battery sitting on the bench in storage with no wires attached and so no load, will be 3% to %5 down after a month. Store it a long time and it will be dead.

this is when you need a battery maintainer. If you are storing for longish periods of time.

I try to be mindful to put my RV to bed with as full a charge as I can... and it's usually stored no more than about 3 months before we use it, so I have disconnect switches on the batteries and that's the first thing I do when parking...disconnect them...but I don't need a maintainer really. I don't use my boat very often at all, and so I have one on it. like this
022-0150-DL-WH
...but there are lots of sizes and styles

This all was hard learned by killing and replacing many batteries on my boat and campers over the years.... now my batteries last a long time typically.
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:20 PM   #6
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Thanks for all of the re-typing: I learned a bit from your experience!


Now: which Golf Cart Batteries will fit under the second step of my Outlaw?
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Old 06-14-2018, 11:00 PM   #7
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I use a Battery Tender on mine. Have used one for many years on auto while stored in garage at another home in another state for up to 6 months for years. Always worked fine. Did not disconnect auto battery, just made sure water level is up to full mark, plug in forget it, off GFI outlet.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:55 AM   #8
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I have a Hurricane 32N with 2 coach batteries and a 1 for the engine.

I thought that they would remained charged by simply leaving the coach plugged into shore power when garaged, with the toggle switch on.

Am I mistaken?
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragman View Post
I have a Hurricane 32N with 2 coach batteries and a 1 for the engine.

I thought that they would remained charged by simply leaving the coach plugged into shore power when garaged, with the toggle switch on.

Am I mistaken?
Can anyone tell me if the quote above is correct?

Thank you.
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragman View Post
Can anyone tell me if the quote above is correct?

Thank you.
All batteries should be charged by the converter when plugged into shore power and the USE/STORE switch in USE.
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:29 PM   #11
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The other thing to check is if Thor’s cheap converter/charger is actually working as it should. After a couple of days with the coach plugged in to shore power and the use/store in the use position, check the voltage on the house batteries with a volt meter. The charge should read around 13.1v which indicates that the converter/charger has stepped down to the maintenance charge mode. If the volt meter reads around 13.5v, then the charger has not gone into the maintenance mode, as it should. If you continue to leave the coach plugged into shore power with a 13.5v charge, you risk boiling off the electrolyte in the batteries and ruining them.
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:40 PM   #12
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Mine isn't stepping down: I've got 13.6 on the meter!
What needs to be replaced?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfryman View Post
All batteries should be charged by the converter when plugged into shore power and the USE/STORE switch in USE.
True for most class A but not class C according to Thor. Check your coach to be sure if the chassis battery charges off the shore power.
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Mine isn't stepping down: I've got 13.6 on the meter!
What needs to be replaced?
I replaced my converter/charger with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 which was a direct replacement for the 55 amp converter/charger that came in the Axis. Not sure if you have the same charger in your Outlaw, but PD makes a variety of chargers and one should be a direct replacement for yours. Search Progressive Dynamics in this forum and you will get a bunch of threads discussing the replacement. It is relatively easy, with good directions and the new unit fits right in where the old one went - with minor modifications. Not surprised that yours isn’t working correctly. The ones Thor uses are junk. Neither worked correctly in the Vegas or Axis. The new PD has worked well for the past 18 months.
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:27 PM   #15
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Thanks for the info: I'm on it!
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
True for most class A but not class C according to Thor. Check your coach to be sure if the chassis battery charges off the shore power.
Well since the question was asked by someone with a Class A (Hurricane 32N) the answer is true for him. It's also true for most Class Cs except those on the Mercedes Sprinter Chassis - Mercedes doesn't allow their 12 VDC to work and play well with other 12 VDC systems.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:04 PM   #17
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I was told directly by Thor that my 31W class C on a Ford E450 chassis did not have a bidirectional relay.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
I was told directly by Thor that my 31W class C on a Ford E450 chassis did not have a bidirectional relay.
If that means there is no way to charge your house batteries from the RV alternator, that is really cheap and doesn’t make much sense. Both my 2005 class B and 2010 Class C (both not Thor) had a BIRD. When you are on a trip it makes no sense to have to plug in to recharge your house batteries. You must still have an emergency start switch? At least that allows you to recharge and start your chassis battery. If I did not have a BIRD or BCC I would consider installing a switch between the two battery banks to allow charging the house batteries while underway. The only problem with that is that you have to remember to turn off the switch when you park for the night and use your house batteries. If you forget, you risk running down your chassis battery with your house batteries and not being able to start the engine.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:35 PM   #19
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It's the other direction they said I don't have. Shore power can't charge the chassis battery according to Thor support. The opposite direction works as I expected, alternator charges house just fine. And yes I have an emergency start switch to start the engine from the house batteries
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
It's the other direction they said I don't have. Shore power can't charge the chassis battery according to Thor support. The opposite direction works as I expected, alternator charges house just fine. And yes I have an emergency start switch to start the engine from the house batteries
That makes sense. If the house batteries charge off of the alternator and you can start the engine off of the house batteries with the emergency start switch, that us all you really need. Thanks for the clarification. I wondered why they would do that.
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