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Old 07-31-2018, 04:03 AM   #21
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Jeez guys I can only solve one problem at a time. What does an Automatic Energy Select Switch look like?
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Old 07-31-2018, 04:17 AM   #22
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Are you guys trying to get me to look for blinker lubricant?
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:42 AM   #23
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It's Blinker Juice, not lubricant, and the reservoir is just under the Flex Capacitor.
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:56 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamJanTan View Post
Jeez guys I can only solve one problem at a time. What does an Automatic Energy Select Switch look like?
Something like this:

(from the link in my post).

Or like this if its been installed by Thor:
Click image for larger version

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Yup, found it just hanging there by the 120V wires (I fixed that right away).
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:16 PM   #25
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Yeah next to the low speed magafalator.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:19 PM   #26
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Sorry guys I know you are trying to help but this is way to much for me. What does this thing do?
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:25 PM   #27
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The AESS is designed to reduce the current draw of the coach. It is typically connected to a primary high current appliance (refer, microwave, etc.) and a secondary appliance that doesn't need to run all the time.

As an example lets say the microwave is the primary and the water heater is secondary.
When the microwave is not cooking the AESS will send power to both the microwave and water heater. As soon as the microwave starts cooking (drawing high current) the AESS will cut power to the water heater thereby limiting the maximum current that both devices use in total. When the microwave is done cooking the AESS will restore power to the water heater.

Thinking on this I would bet that is what mine is connected to: The microwave and water heater. This would also explain why the microwave 120V plug says "microwave only" on it.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:28 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
Here is another thought: Perhaps your TVs are connected to something else (the fridge it sounds like) through a Automatic Energy Select Switch.



The switch will provide power to both the TVs and the refer until there is a large current draw from the refer; then it cuts power to the TVs (I know about this because I found one installed in our Axis--not sure what two devices are connected to it; could very well be the Microwave and water heater as described in the link I provided above).



Just a thought.


And I thought the BIRD and thrombetta were wild. So you need a PH.D. In electrical engineering town a MH? I am not sure it is worth it now. Let the fun continue.
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:30 PM   #29
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Building codes require a home microwave to be on a single dedicated line with nothing else. Do RV's not subscribe to that standard? Probably a stupid question!!
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:57 PM   #30
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OK so we are in testing mode. Fire extinguisher handy, coach powered up, all three TVs, refrigerator, and AC working. Will the TVs remain powered all day? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 07-31-2018, 03:01 PM   #31
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Of course they will...you're on the forum with 6,000 firetrucks standing by. Take the coach to the top of a mountain with no cell service or internet...there is where they will quit working! Good luck!!
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Old 07-31-2018, 03:47 PM   #32
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As posts #16 and others I had the same insulation displacement box in my Tuscany. The induction stove top is wired with 12 GA wire and they tried to crowd two strands into the same insulation displacement contacts. When you experienced some movement like the connection heating up the TV would turn off and the stove top would error out. I Removed the 12 ga wires and added a new box where I could wire nut all the 12 ga wires. Probably solder them too! TV & induction stove top has work flawlessly since. I think I diagnosed the problem by tapping on the duplex socket that the TV was plugged into.
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Old 07-31-2018, 04:18 PM   #33
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Behind the fridge is pretty crowded as is. I know that would be ideal but three wires meet there plus the plug in. I donít like the looks of my solution but I am not sure I could do much better without a major rewiring job. Hoping the friction slips? where the wires meet are tight enough to get the job done. Any one have any first hand experience with this sort of plug/junction box?
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Old 07-31-2018, 06:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cducote View Post
Would love some advice from other Thor owners! Our 2014 ACE has had a problem with all the TVís just turning off sporadically and then coming back on. Weíve taken it to 3 different dealers and no one has been able to find the problem. Seems like it would be a breaker (theyíre all in the one slide) but so far no luck! Any suggestions?


If you have been following the thread I would check the fridge plug. Mine has been running about 4 hours with no problems which is longer than ever since the problem began about a month ago. Special thanks to sanjuan2 for the initial point to the fridge and thank you to the many others who helped along the way. I am really not happy with the way the thing looks but will call this a win and hope it last until something better comes along.
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