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Old 08-24-2021, 01:51 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Challenger 37XL
State: Maine
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THOR #24376
Xantrex 1800 Problems

Hi Folks, A little help here. Please.

I have read several threads on the subject.
My first try at using the inverter was yesterday. (just purchased the coach 2017 Challenger 37LX with 20k miles).

I turn it on (not connected to SP) it shows me 12.9 volts 0 amps , on the way to the refer - I pass the Micro, no lights on, go to the Refer door lights on, open the door interior light goes on turn on the cooling switch - light goes off and the display on the Xantrex goes blank, stays green but is blank.

I have not checked any connections, knowing the previous owner was clueless about anything I know he did not make any adjustments.

Is this a symptom of the inverter being dead? I have read where there was a batch of bad ones.

Thanks in advance for your responses

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Old 08-24-2021, 06:44 PM   #2
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Normally the inverter would show an error code. Going blank is a possibility a bad inverter.
If you haven’t done so already, go to thormotorcoach.com. And put in your vin#. It will bring up the owners manual for the unit
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Old 08-24-2021, 07:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-dent View Post
Hi Folks, A little help here. Please.

I have read several threads on the subject.
My first try at using the inverter was yesterday. (just purchased the coach 2017 Challenger 37LX with 20k miles).

I turn it on (not connected to SP) it shows me 12.9 volts 0 amps , on the way to the refer - I pass the Micro, no lights on, go to the Refer door lights on, open the door interior light goes on turn on the cooling switch - light goes off and the display on the Xantrex goes blank, stays green but is blank.

I have not checked any connections, knowing the previous owner was clueless about anything I know he did not make any adjustments.

Is this a symptom of the inverter being dead? I have read where there was a batch of bad ones.

Thanks in advance for your responses
Best guess is you have popped the supplementary circuit breaker on the inverter. The inverter is under the bed. Facing the front of the inverter, the circuit breaker is a small black button located on the right side about an inch back from the face. When activated, it popes-out about 1/4 inch. Push it back in to reset.
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Old 08-24-2021, 07:33 PM   #4
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THOR #24376
1800 inverter problems

Hi,

I got the manuals, will check them out.

Only thing under the bed is storage and 1 set of automotive style breakers, did not look at those. and a separate set of house style breakers. None of them appear to have been overloaded, have someone cleaning the inside of the coach now. I will check all the breakers afterwards and look for the location of the converter.

Thanks for the heads up. First time I had the bed slide extended out. (except for the pre sale inspection. Bart
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Old 08-29-2021, 02:44 PM   #5
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Partially solved

So here is an update, Most all the power nuts checked for tightness. (some were loose).
Did not make a difference. What made a difference is filling the house batteries up. The must have been dry. The both took almost a gallon of water each. This is very perturbing as it was just serviced by Mike Thompson RV in Colton Ca. 2 months ago and the system had not been used. (They also did not do the Lube job they charged for. )These batteries appear to be original from 2016 so I was going to replace them and add 2 more anyway.

So the inverter runs the frig now but it does not show any amps or watts being used. I also want to find the Battery charger and the battery isolator.
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Old 08-29-2021, 02:51 PM   #6
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Smart move starting fresh with new house batteries. That should permanently fix your inverter issue.
Many of us had to change out the OEM Thor batteries shortly after purchase.
House batteries are usually abused while new RV sits on dealer’s lot waiting for a “home”.
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Old 08-29-2021, 03:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-dent View Post
So here is an update, {snip}

So the inverter runs the frig now but it does not show any amps or watts being used. I also want to find the Battery charger and the battery isolator.
The charger on an RV is called a converter as it converts AC current into DC current. It is there to power all the 12 volt items in the coach when on shore power or when the generator is running, so the batteries are not needed. If the charge of the house batteries are below 12.7 volts, it will also charge the house batteries. Generally the converter is found in the lower compartment of the power-center. The power-center is the big steel cabinet where all the AC circuit breakers and a row of 12 volt fuses are located. The house battery isolator is usually located beside or behind the power center. It consist of a latching relay capable of 50 amps DC continuously. Its purpose is to isolate the fuse panel in the power-center from the house battery bank or connect the power-center's fuse panel to the house battery bank.
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Old 08-29-2021, 03:25 PM   #8
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Thanks Roy

My 12v fuses and AC circuit breakers are under my Bed in the back bedroom.

There is no access behind or next to them unless I start removing wood panels

I appreciate the Schooling on the purpose and use of the Battery Charger / converter and the battery isolator.

The charge converter is working I do not know about the Isolator though, as my radio was left on and it appeared that systems were drained. How ever you made me think. That was before I found out the house batteries did not have any water.

So there wasn't any juice to start the coach from them.

I would still like to know where those two items are and what they look like.

Any 2016 / 2017 Challenger folks can chime in any time. Thanks
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Old 08-29-2021, 03:37 PM   #9
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One more time: The converter is part of the power center:



Almost any RV will require removing panels to get to all the electrical wiring and components behind the power center. Our MH had a plywood panel under a bench seat that had to be removed. It's usually just a few screws.
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Old 08-29-2021, 03:55 PM   #10
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I thought this was supposed to be a friendly exchange

"ONE MORE TIME" is not necessary 16ACE27, this is your first entry to this thread. Thanks for the photo but mine is absolutely nothing like that.

For any others, I know of no "Power Center" in my coach. At the foot of the bed there are two separate panels 1 has 12v fuses the other has 110 v circuit breakers. there is no access adjacent to them.

A different thread said the invertor may be the "Converter" looking at the Xantrex 1800 specs it does not have any DC out so it could not charge the batteries. Thank you
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Old 09-03-2021, 11:24 AM   #11
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2017 Challenger 37X Electrical issues

I started this thread because of display issues with the Xantrex 1800 display.

As my house batteries were putting out over 6V I thought they were OK. Well come to find out they were very thirsty. They took a gallon of water each. I researched the date codes and found out they are the original house batteries. While I was planning on replacing them anyway ($200 a piece wow’sie) I got the flooded US Battery 145 XC2 one of it’s ratings is 25amps for 562 minutes. So at 12v and 50% discharge 4 should give me 10hrs? Or so. I have not installed them yet I am waiting for the new battery cables (2/0), and going to put an alarm on the battery compartment door. (Actually all the Basement compartment doors.)

So still wondering about the Battery Isolator and the Battery converter / charger, I went to the Thor customer service website and requested info (location and description). They provided a photo of the Battery Isolator, and in a later email told me the converter was under the bed. Why Thor found it necessary to put a device that generates heat inside the coach is beyond me. But it is there. Along with a lot of fuses (momentary and blade) and a relay switch. Again I am very surprised fuses that (at some point) may need replacing are hidden under a bed?

I have to remove the mattress which I can’t do until I move the bed slide out 12" or so. then lift up a storage access door. then move the slide so all the screws holding the plywood cover over this electrical area are exposed. One post said the battery converter / charger was in the power center. I am going to label the storage door and that piece of plywood “Power Center”. Maybe print out a photo and label it too. Anyway for those of you who have one of these. I suggest you look at it.

Mine has several electrical connections which are not quite up to par. There are loose connections and 2 cables that are too big to put into a grounding bar that were put into the grounding bar. They are actually using the bar as a power distribution bar that is not insulated or covered.

I have a bit of learning to do and I appreciate all your help. Thank you.
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Old 09-03-2021, 03:22 PM   #12
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Here is what under my bed. The latching relay (house battery isolation relay) is just to the right of the Rapid Camp circuit board. Far right is the power center. The converter is in the lower half of the power center just behind the 12 volt fuse panel.
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Old 09-04-2021, 12:19 PM   #13
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Getting there

Hey Beau388,
Thanks for sharing the photos. I can’t see much from all those wires. But that’s ok it’s yours. Mine is similar but different. I write my post on my laptop, the photos are on my phone.

I guess the big difference is my fuses and circuit breakers are not in a metal box they are separate and attached directly to the plywood at the foot of the bed. Accessible only when one of the slides are extended. They could have put them on the hallway side of the bed which would have eliminated the need to extend any slide.

My converter / charger is by itself, now unencumbered by a wire loom I moved that was blocking airflow from the fan.

I guess my rapid camp is in there too. I think it is a circuit board with some blade fuses and a little wire that goes nowhere. I moved it yesterday because it was under an unaccusable area, and if need be (while on the road) I would not have been able to get to the fuses without great difficulty.

I have not been on the road with my coach yet but I just thought I should get a blade fuse kit.
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:41 PM   #14
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My $ .02
Every model coach and every year from Thor is built slightly different and has control panels modules whatever you’d like to call them in different areas. I have a ton of stuff under the master bed in the back.
My inverter is in a storage bin next to the storage bin where my batteries are.
I had a ton of problems with error codes… I read a ton of fourms….…New batteries… etc
Even had it replaced under warranty. By the way the trip button is a little red button on mine on the side of the unit… Again this is mounted in a storage bin
I started having problems again this spring. Starting in the battery area… I’ve tightened every nut and bolt that I could find… Went underneath the bed area and did the same thing… I was able to actually snug and tighten over 18 wires.
Guess what I’m good as new…. These things Shake rattle and roll as they go down the road. Things come Loose…
Check the easy stuff first
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Old 09-10-2021, 03:24 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by b-dent View Post
one of it’s ratings is 25amps for 562 minutes. So at 12v and 50% discharge 4 should give me 10hrs? Or so.
Please be aware that using the inverter, you have a significant difference in amperage, between what the AC draw is, and what the batteries see. For instance, running a microwave at 15 amp draw, at 120 VAC, is seen by the batteries as a 150 amp drain, at 12VDC. Run a computer at 5 amps an hour, is seen by the batteries as 50 amps.
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Old 09-10-2021, 04:19 PM   #16
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Loctite and DC amps VS AC amps

Thanks for the input HarryS and Cakeman.

I know of the differences between models. However I feel the identification, location, and device should remain the same for the model. Even to a certain extent for only minor changes between model years. But this is a real world, I know even different crews at the same plant will do things a bit differently. I do not plan on keeping my coach for over a year or so. Just purchased it to travel from California to one of the New England states, and look for and purchase a Home. Alleviating the need for hotels and eating establishments.

Cakeman, I think we should all buy stock in Loctite, I have a couple bottles myself.

HarryS, thanks for the heads up on 120v amperage VS 12v Amperage. I know of the difference but did not give it any thought. After I get my new batteries installed, I’ll have to look at the Xantrex owner’s manual to see if it is reporting 12v amps or 110v amps.

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Old 07-30-2022, 08:56 PM   #17
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Angry 2018 Thor 31W inverter

Ok all the complaints about inverters. On my 31W the Xantrex 1800 in behind a drawer, underneath the refrigerator! All in about a 9 inch tall space. In June of 2021 I was getting an error code and inverter stopped working. After talking to Xantrex support they provided me tests and it was determined it was bad. Ordered a new Xantrex 1800 and lying on my side on the floor it took about three days to replace. July 2022, same error code on new one, same issue, dead. Talked to Xantrex and they suggested I upgrade to Xantrex Pro 2000, twice the cost.
I have been struggling under the fridge space for 10 days, got if hooked up eventually, push the start button... nothing. no display, nothing! Any ideas????? and yes I have checked the new AGM batteries, new positive cable under fridge, etc. Nothing...
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Old 07-30-2022, 09:12 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by caution View Post
Ok all the complaints about inverters. On my 31W the Xantrex 1800 in behind a drawer, underneath the refrigerator! All in about a 9 inch tall space. In June of 2021 I was getting an error code and inverter stopped working. After talking to Xantrex support they provided me tests and it was determined it was bad. Ordered a new Xantrex 1800 and lying on my side on the floor it took about three days to replace. July 2022, same error code on new one, same issue, dead. Talked to Xantrex and they suggested I upgrade to Xantrex Pro 2000, twice the cost.
I have been struggling under the fridge space for 10 days, got if hooked up eventually, push the start button... nothing. no display, nothing! Any ideas????? and yes I have checked the new AGM batteries, new positive cable under fridge, etc. Nothing...

It could be you tripped the Bussman breaker on the positive cable going to the house batteries. If you don’t have a Bussman breaker, there will be a fuse on the cable where it attaches to the house batteries that may have blown.
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Old 07-30-2022, 09:23 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by b-dent View Post
Hey Beau388,
Thanks for sharing the photos. I can’t see much from all those wires. But that’s ok it’s yours. Mine is similar but different. I write my post on my laptop, the photos are on my phone.

I guess the big difference is my fuses and circuit breakers are not in a metal box they are separate and attached directly to the plywood at the foot of the bed. Accessible only when one of the slides are extended. They could have put them on the hallway side of the bed which would have eliminated the need to extend any slide.

My converter / charger is by itself, now unencumbered by a wire loom I moved that was blocking airflow from the fan.

I guess my rapid camp is in there too. I think it is a circuit board with some blade fuses and a little wire that goes nowhere. I moved it yesterday because it was under an unaccusable area, and if need be (while on the road) I would not have been able to get to the fuses without great difficulty.

I have not been on the road with my coach yet but I just thought I should get a blade fuse kit.
The small circuit board at the top of the picture is the Rapid Camp relay board. My remote is in a chubby over the entry door. Its charger was in the Thor black accessory bag. The second picture is the Power Center under the foot of the bed. It is a Parralex 5365
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Old 12-09-2022, 03:56 AM   #20
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Having similar issues. Did you ever get it fixed? I've been lying on the ground, under the fridge for about an hour. Display stopped working....can't find the trip button.
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