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Old 12-18-2020, 11:01 PM   #21
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THOR #18015
Hilarious
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Old 12-18-2020, 11:23 PM   #22
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This is the only connection point on the chassis located just above the batteries on the inside of box. Pretty much where I would expect to find the breaker.
Removed batteries and charged, now reading 12.7V at 100% New in July 2019
Installed batteries, no progress.
Voltage once connected is the same regardless as to whether the AC is connected.
Batteries are located just inside the door under floor. Have followed leads to every connection point. House batteries to the connection terminal pictured above. This is also where the starting battery lead terminates. Then aft along chassis and up into AC-DC converter and aft again to the genset. Pulled all interior panels and inspection ports along the way
There is not a breaker unless it is inline and inside conduit or hidden.
At this point will have to make do as it is and will bring wire tracer home next week
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Old 12-18-2020, 11:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethroa1a View Post

This is the only connection point on the chassis located just above the batteries on the inside of box. Pretty much where I would expect to find the breaker.
Removed batteries and charged, now reading 12.7V at 100% New in July 2019
Installed batteries, no progress.
Voltage once connected is the same regardless as to whether the AC is connected.
Batteries are located just inside the door under floor. Have followed leads to every connection point. House batteries to the connection terminal pictured above. This is also where the starting battery lead terminates. Then aft along chassis and up into AC-DC converter and aft again to the genset. Pulled all interior panels and inspection ports along the way
There is not a breaker unless it is inline and inside conduit or hidden.
At this point will have to make do as it is and will bring wire tracer home next week
The breaker you are looking for IS inline but not in a conduit. It May be hidden but it is there.
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Old 12-19-2020, 12:58 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
every generator ever built has circuit breakers on it.
We're talking about 12 VDC breakers for power to START the generator, not generator output breakers.
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Old 12-19-2020, 01:00 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jethroa1a View Post

This is the only connection point on the chassis located just above the batteries on the inside of box. Pretty much where I would expect to find the breaker.
Removed batteries and charged, now reading 12.7V at 100% New in July 2019
Installed batteries, no progress.
Voltage once connected is the same regardless as to whether the AC is connected.
Batteries are located just inside the door under floor. Have followed leads to every connection point. House batteries to the connection terminal pictured above. This is also where the starting battery lead terminates. Then aft along chassis and up into AC-DC converter and aft again to the genset. Pulled all interior panels and inspection ports along the way
There is not a breaker unless it is inline and inside conduit or hidden.
At this point will have to make do as it is and will bring wire tracer home next week
You forgot the pictures.
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Old 12-19-2020, 01:03 AM   #26
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We're talking about 12 VDC breakers for power to START the generator, not generator output breakers.
Post #10 OP was also looking for genset breakers.
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Old 12-19-2020, 02:01 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
Post #10 OP was also looking for genset breakers.
Post #8, last line for context. The "generator breaker" referred to was the 100 amp DC breaker for starting power.
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Old 12-19-2020, 12:03 PM   #28
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You go guys!!! WTH is the breaker?

Before tracing any more wires..... the batteries were dead. Didnít allow store/use switch to reset. After charging batteries, did you load test them? Batteries are probably shot.

But keep up the detective work. Youíll find the breaker soon!
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:09 PM   #29
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The latest issue in an ongoing saga of never ending issues with our 2015 Thor 24S.
The 12 volt system only seems to work when we are plugged in or on Generator.
For what it’s worth, I had the same issues in my Class A Hurricane gasser last year. Turns out that there was a tiny resettable breaker that had popped in the power panel that is in the engine compartment (class A). I had techs that could not locate it, but thanks to members on this forum, I solved the issue. I will try and locate the pictures from my post at the time.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:09 PM   #30
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Don't know if you have a converter to power a home style refrigerator but 2 years ago when I put my batteries back in after being stored all winter, there was a small cable that feeds the converter that takes 12 volt to 120 for the frig and I didn't put it back on (DUH) and had the same problem.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:28 PM   #31
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Main battery breaker

I have a Thor 4 winds 2020. My battery box is under the stairs. When purchased, it had one 12v battery. I now have 4. I lost 12v and looked tor the breaker. Mine was inside the battery box totally hidden by the batteries and totally NOT accessible . It was on left side from outside the Class C. I have a 70a and a 100a. I relocated both of mine to the outside the battery case and more easily assessable.

Good luck
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:28 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Billr580 View Post
Don't know if you have a converter to power a home style refrigerator but 2 years ago when I put my batteries back in after being stored all winter, there was a small cable that feeds the converter that takes 12 volt to 120 for the frig and I didn't put it back on (DUH) and had the same problem.
That would be an inverter, not a converter. A converter converts 120 VAC to 12 VDC for DC loads and charging the batteries.

An Inverter takes 12 VDC from batteries and creates 120 VAC to power AC loads like a residential fridge.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:38 PM   #33
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Adding pic of resettable fuse

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subdev10 View Post
For what it’s worth, I had the same issues in my Class A Hurricane gasser last year. Turns out that there was a tiny resettable breaker that had popped in the power panel that is in the engine compartment (class A). I had techs that could not locate it, but thanks to members on this forum, I solved the issue. I will try and locate the pictures from my post at the time.
Attached is the pic of the 50 amp resettable fuse in the BCC.
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Old 12-23-2020, 10:15 PM   #34
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feelin your pain

Quote:
Originally Posted by jethroa1a View Post
1. Tested House Bank, 11.8v. I believe it may not be charging as well
2. I do not see a 50 amp DC breaker any where. There is a breaker panel inside the coach and all breakers I can find are on. Have switched off and on to no avail.
3. Followed all wiring from with to what I believe is a relay and appears in good condition with continuity.

From here I would guess I need to locate the 50 (or 30) amp breaker and or charger. The manual does not state anything about a charger but refers to a converter that may also act was a charger. I do not have an inverter.
I went through the same thing, sorta. What you believe is a relay was my problem, it is actually solenoid relay and passes the 12V from the CONVERTER which is actually your battery charger and 12V power supply. This is shown as the interior fuse panel on the right of the attached doc, page 14. to the left of that is the relay I mention, labeled DISCONNECT.
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Old 12-23-2020, 10:43 PM   #35
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feelin your pain

I lost the rest of my reply somehow, but I'll try again. I have attached page 14 of the schematic of my 2018 Outlaw. On the right you will see "interior fuse panel" - this is actually how the Converter, or Charger/Power supply is connected to the relay that is probably your issue. Labeled "disconnect" to the left of the fuse panel, you have to search for this solenoid relay, probably behind a fuse panel like mine was. This is what is stopping your 12V Converter from charging the batteries and running 12V stuff without shore power. I took mine out, tested it with a battery and found that it toggles; one touch of 12V to the smaller terminals closes the relay, another opens it. f you measure across the bigger terminals when it is closed, you will measure nothing. Measure from Ground to each side for 12VDC to determine if its open or closed.
Your batteries are probably ok, the 50A breakers are ok, this relay just opens when thing get too low in voltage and you have to "jump start" it.
Good Luck
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File Type: pdf Page 14 Outlaw.pdf (251.4 KB, 15 views)
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Old 12-24-2020, 12:39 PM   #36
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There is a re-settable fuse by my converter that tripped one time. It is a small box with a button on the side that resets it.
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Old 12-24-2020, 01:35 PM   #37
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Red inline fuse

I had a similar issue in the past couple of months and reached out directly to Thor, who also did not quite have the right answer, but they had a lot of useful information including a PDF that shows where all of the things my dealer didn't provide to me were. However, after talking with them and on this forum, I discovered a little red plastic item just off one of the positive terminals with a fuse in it. I've seen this on other electronics before, so at that point I was pretty sure what it was even though it had been staring me right in the face before that. Of course I have a Thor Quantum RC25, which might be different, but could this possibly be what you are looking for?

Few other things, it was my lack of understanding on the USE/STORE, even though my switch doesn't say USE/STORE. Basically with shore power off, the switch was off. I neglected to turn the switch on before plugging in shore power, so it wasn't charging on shore power.

Also, everyone was insisting that I needed to replace my batteries, some said I should've been checking the level in the cells. I did check the levels, they looked low, below the core wall, and I filled them with distilled water. I also purchased a battery hydrometer for $10 at my local auto parts store and checked the cells to confirm they were good. After all this I was able to charge the batteries and they appear to be working fine now. I also purchased a battery tender for the winter to keep things charged so I didn't have to keep it on shore power, and it sounds like I need to check my cell levels every month with that attached. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-24-2020, 01:37 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by OutlawThor View Post
I lost the rest of my reply somehow, but I'll try again. I have attached page 14 of the schematic of my 2018 Outlaw. On the right you will see "interior fuse panel" - this is actually how the Converter, or Charger/Power supply is connected to the relay that is probably your issue. Labeled "disconnect" to the left of the fuse panel, you have to search for this solenoid relay, probably behind a fuse panel like mine was. This is what is stopping your 12V Converter from charging the batteries and running 12V stuff without shore power. I took mine out, tested it with a battery and found that it toggles; one touch of 12V to the smaller terminals closes the relay, another opens it. f you measure across the bigger terminals when it is closed, you will measure nothing. Measure from Ground to each side for 12VDC to determine if its open or closed.
Your batteries are probably ok, the 50A breakers are ok, this relay just opens when thing get too low in voltage and you have to "jump start" it.
Good Luck
The "disconnect" is the latching relay that is controlled by the USE/STORE or battery disconnect switch. If there is no voltage on the "battery" side of that relay it will not change position. The OP said he heard it switch to STORE but now it won't move. That is why we have sent him to look for the 50 amp breaker to the left of the "disconnect". He must have got stuck under the coach looking for it as we haven't heard from him in a while.

Your schematic is a great resource and applies to most MHs built by Thor. Not all have an inverter, BIM, 4 batteries or hydraulic leveling but the rest should apply.
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Old 01-04-2021, 08:54 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
The "disconnect" is the latching relay that is controlled by the USE/STORE or battery disconnect switch. If there is no voltage on the "battery" side of that relay it will not change position. The OP said he heard it switch to STORE but now it won't move. That is why we have sent him to look for the 50 amp breaker to the left of the "disconnect". He must have got stuck under the coach looking for it as we haven't heard from him in a while.

Your schematic is a great resource and applies to most MHs built by Thor. Not all have an inverter, BIM, 4 batteries or hydraulic leveling but the rest should apply.
thanks for this response, I suspect that the problem I had was that once my batteries were depleted due to someone disconnected my solar/storage charger, that "disconnect" would not engage, even when shore power was ON. OR, I was not aware that the power switch toggle you call the USE/STORE (not labeled in mine) controls this relay. I have/had never toggled it on if connected to shore power, its already lit. Would that have activated that solenoid? not sure I am going to like this answer...
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Old 01-04-2021, 09:00 PM   #40
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thanks for this response, I suspect that the problem I had was that once my batteries were depleted due to someone disconnected my solar/storage charger, that "disconnect" would not engage, even when shore power was ON. OR, I was not aware that the power switch toggle you call the USE/STORE (not labeled in mine) controls this relay. I have/had never toggled it on if connected to shore power, its already lit. Would that have activated that solenoid? not sure I am going to like this answer...
The light is just an indicator of 12 volt electricity being present. It is not an indicator of on or off.
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