adding Lithium to 2019 Chateau 28Z Class C

[Chateau_Nomad]

You now have two devices in series with each other which perform essentially the same function... but with a critical difference - charging parameters.

AGM (and all lead-acid based) batteries have a different charge voltage profile from LifePO4 batteries. This is why you should never intermix the two battery types in a battery bank.

There is an exception: when the chassis battery is lead-acid and the house batteries are lithium, they may be connected in a CONTROLLED and MONITORED situation. This is EXACTLY what the Li-BIM 225 does. It monitors both battery voltages and connects/disconnects as needed.

By leaving your existing lead-acid battery isolator in the mix, you potentially interfere with proper operation of the Li-BIM. I would recommend removing the original lead-acid battery isolator and let the Li-BIM 225 function as it was designed.

[Geterdun]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

You now have two devices in series with each other which perform essentially the same function... but with a critical difference - charging parameters.

AGM (and all lead-acid based) batteries have a different charge voltage profile from LifePO4 batteries. This is why you should never intermix the two battery types in a battery bank.

There is an exception: when the chassis battery is lead-acid and the house batteries are lithium, they may be connected in a CONTROLLED and MONITORED situation. This is EXACTLY what the Li-BIM 225 does. It monitors both battery voltages and connects/disconnects as needed.

By leaving your existing lead-acid battery isolator in the mix, you potentially interfere with proper operation of the Li-BIM. I would recommend removing the original lead-acid battery isolator and let the Li-BIM 225 function as it was designed.

But for the OP:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ul-cZyuYq4

[CHS]

Originally Posted by Geterdun

How did you do that? Didn't you install the LI-BIM? If so, did you put it in series with the Trombetta relay?

The Li-BIM225 replaces the Isolator relay.

[Geterdun]

Originally Posted by CHS

The Li-BIM225 replaces the Isolator relay.

OK, so you replaced the Trombetta solenoid with the LI=BIM but retained the control/delay relay? Again, how did you do that? How did you wire the delay control to control the LI-BIM? And what did you find to be the cause of your large current draw after initial installation? Your experience can help others contemplating the same type of modification.

[blw2]

what are you doing with your converter?

I recently replaced my battery from a flooded lead acid to an AGM. Thought about lithium
but my converter isn't compatible
and a year or two ago I replaced my Bird with a Bim that's not lithium compatible....
so too much trouble for me....and I don't do enough off grid RVing to justify it.....

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by blw2

what are you doing with your converter?

I recently replaced my battery from a flooded lead acid to an AGM. Thought about lithium
but my converter isn't compatible
and a year or two ago I replaced my Bird with a Bim that's not lithium compatible....
so too much trouble for me....and I don't do enough off grid RVing to justify it.....

For a lithium conversion, It's best to spend time researching and mapping the entire setup - which includes an energy audit. As in your case, it's a huge waste of cash for a system you'll never use.

Randomly buying components before figuring out how the whole setup will work together can be a frustrating and expensive experience.

As for the converter... if it's not lithium compatible, it should be removed so it's not still wired into DC service panel. Hopefully that's what the OP did.

[CHS]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

For a lithium conversion, It's best to spend time researching and mapping the entire setup - which includes an energy audit. As in your case, it's a huge waste of cash for a system you'll never use.

Randomly buying components before figuring out how the whole setup will work together can be a frustrating and expensive experience.

As for the converter... if it's not lithium compatible, it should be removed so it's not still wired into DC service panel. Hopefully that's what the OP did.

It's been replaced with a Lithium compatible converter. As for randomly buying components. I am not setting up some massive solar system. I am updating my AGM house batteries to Lithium. As for solar, I am running off a Bluetti AC200MAX for 120 volt and installing 3, 200 watt solar panels to recharge.
Between the solar, and the onboard Generator, I will have just what I need for short to moderate term boondocking.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by CHS

It's been replaced with a Lithium compatible converter. As for randomly buying components. I am not setting up some massive solar system. I am updating my AGM house batteries to Lithium. As for solar, I am running off a Bluetti AC200MAX for 120 volt and installing 3, 200 watt solar panels to recharge.
Between the solar, and the onboard Generator, I will have just what I need for short to moderate term boondocking.

Sounds like a good plan! Portable power stations are far less complicated, and can be a game changer for your style of boondocking! Please give updates on your results compared to your previous AGM batteries!

[Geterdun]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Sounds like a good plan! Portable power stations are far less complicated, and can be a game changer for your style of boondocking! Please give updates on your results compared to your previous AGM batteries!

And far more expensive for equal capacity

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Geterdun

And far more expensive for equal capacity

Price per watt hour is more... BUT if you only need, say 1200 - 2400 watt hours, using a portable gives an option without having a fixed installation. AND it's portable.

More expensive... yes. But these "power stations" satisfy a certain niche market.

An analogy might be buying a carton of an item at Sam's Club. The per unit price is cheaper, but if you don't need a whole carton, just pay a premium for a single unit.

[CHS]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

You now have two devices in series with each other which perform essentially the same function... but with a critical difference - charging parameters.

AGM (and all lead-acid based) batteries have a different charge voltage profile from LifePO4 batteries. This is why you should never intermix the two battery types in a battery bank.

There is an exception: when the chassis battery is lead-acid and the house batteries are lithium, they may be connected in a CONTROLLED and MONITORED situation. This is EXACTLY what the Li-BIM 225 does. It monitors both battery voltages and connects/disconnects as needed.

By leaving your existing lead-acid battery isolator in the mix, you potentially interfere with proper operation of the Li-BIM. I would recommend removing the original lead-acid battery isolator and let the Li-BIM 225 function as it was designed.

What I left was not the Lead acid isolator but a separate delay timer. All it does is delay the operation of the Li-BIM for about a minute when first starting up the engine to give it time for the alternator to come up to speed and begin working. Probably not really necessary but I figured what the harm?

[Hugh.vines@att.net]

Originally Posted by CHS

Hey Y'all,
I am in the process of replacing my 2 AGM batteries with 2 Lithium. I read on the Battleborn web site that all will be OK with the chassis alternator recharging them.
Then I was told NO by others and that I need to add a dc to dc converter.
My question is, does anyone have any experience with this particular RV, or similar and could explain what I should be looking for if I already may have what I need from the factory.
FYI, I also ordered a new house panel converter, so that's taken care of.

I did order this (can return if I don't need it)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

I changed my converter to lithium changed my batteries and done