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Old 03-26-2021, 08:29 PM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
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THOR #7035
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Originally Posted by jjoster56 View Post
OK. 2019 Windsport. I have read too many posts today on battery life and charging... my head is spinning. So, please help me understand what I thought I read.... If I plug into shore power and the red light comes on for the battery disconnect, I still may not be charging my batteries? Because the switch is actually still off? Even though the red light is on? And everything else in the RV is working?

Meaning I should always be on batteries (switch "on") BEFORE I connect to shore power? Leaving a light on when I get to camp to be sure as I hook up?

Also meaning that the red light is useless????

Help!
You pretty much summed it up.
The red light just indicates there is 12 VDC available on the house 12 volt buss.
That 12 VDC can be supplied by just the house batteries if the battery disconnect is NOT disconnected and you are not connected to SP or running the generator. Good to know so you don't lose power to the fridge when boondocking and you have inside lights at night.

The 12 VDC can also be supplied by the converter if connected to SP or the generator is running even if the battery disconnect is disconnected. The problem is, if the battery disconnect is disconnected the converter will NOT charge the house batteries.

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Old 03-26-2021, 10:29 PM   #22
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Four Winds 23U
State: Ontario
Posts: 15
THOR #10180
Coach Power issues 12V

I have seen several comments from people with 12 V problems in their motorhome. Firstly I would say you must have a volt meter to check things out. With the coach not plugged in and no generator check your house batteries and make sure you have a minimum of 12 V on the batteries.. If not you need to charge the batteries.. To do this plug into shore power and check the batteries again.. Your should at this point see 12.5 plus V on the batteries.. Make sure they are charged before proceeding. Once charged make sure your storage switch is turned on.. On my Four winds the switch is just inside the door and says use or in storage.. When you switch to use you should hear a "clunk" from the relay switch...At this point you should have 12V power in the motorhome. If you hear the clunk but no power follow the sound to a relay switch. Mine is under the bench seat. Locate the relay switch.. Mine is made by intellitec (label on top)... With the voltmeter check for power on both sides. In my case the switch was faulty and I was not getting power through even though the solenoid clunked... If you do not have 12 V power on either side their is a fuse just before my relay and that could be tripped.. I spent several hours tracking down my problem and I did call Thor Service for assistance.. They were very helpful once I found I had power to the relay but nothing getting past... You may not have this problem but I thought I would pass on my experience. Good luck.. Mgironwood
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Old 03-28-2021, 11:57 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by mgironwood View Post
Regarding lack of 12V in Class C I had a similar problem on my 2017 Four Winds 23U. I had lights on shore power and generator but no power when I was not connected or running generator. After checking several of the resets I found I had a bad relay switch made by Intellitec. When I used the storage switch I would hear the solenoid clunk but still no power... The relay switch had failed and I was not getting any power pass it for 12V. A simple check with a volt meter confirmed the problem. I called Thor Technical and they were very helpful once I had tracked the problem down.
I have the same issue. When I use the storage switch, I can hear the click, but do not have power. Was the solution to replace the relay switch?
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Old 03-28-2021, 01:24 PM   #24
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Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
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Originally Posted by Thelma2017 View Post
I have the same issue. When I use the storage switch, I can hear the click, but do not have power. Was the solution to replace the relay switch?
OK, you are part ways there. Now, I did not see you answer the question if you have and know how to use a voltmeter. With the shore power and generator off, follow the noise to where the relay is located (please do not call it a relay switch). Then, knowing how to use the multimeter (voltmeter), the 'flow' of the 12V can be followed and hopefully find where the break is.
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Old 03-28-2021, 03:47 PM   #25
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Model: Chateau 31L
State: Florida
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Originally Posted by Thelma2017 View Post
I have the same issue. When I use the storage switch, I can hear the click, but do not have power. Was the solution to replace the relay switch?
Is the click coming from the bedroom? If so, it's likely under the bed and will need to gain access.

Your incoming 12v should be on the left side. Your output on the right. There's an inline fuse on the output (15A?) before it goes to the distribution panel. Check the fuse. Use the OHM setting on your multimeter to test the fuse. You write you hear clicking so am going to have to assume it's being energized by 12v input.


1. Test the relay by ensuring you have 12v coming out of the right side.
If not and you absolutely must have 12v power (e.g. fridge, heat, etc), you can temporarily jump the relay until you get it replaced.
If so, check the fuse.
2. If the fuse checks out, you'll have to follow that wire to the distribution channel and see if you have juice there.
If not, there's a possible break in the line and you'll likely need a service tech to take it further.
If so, then start pulling the main fuse(s) (believe they're marked 40A) There may be one or two. Check those and get back to us
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Old 03-28-2021, 09:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
Is the click coming from the bedroom? If so, it's likely under the bed and will need to gain access.

Your incoming 12v should be on the left side. Your output on the right. There's an inline fuse on the output (15A?) before it goes to the distribution panel. Check the fuse. Use the OHM setting on your multimeter to test the fuse. You write you hear clicking so am going to have to assume it's being energized by 12v input.


1. Test the relay by ensuring you have 12v coming out of the right side.
If not and you absolutely must have 12v power (e.g. fridge, heat, etc), you can temporarily jump the relay until you get it replaced.
If so, check the fuse.
2. If the fuse checks out, you'll have to follow that wire to the distribution channel and see if you have juice there.
If not, there's a possible break in the line and you'll likely need a service tech to take it further.
If so, then start pulling the main fuse(s) (believe they're marked 40A) There may be one or two. Check those and get back to us

I plan to test the battery on Thursday and I will update what I find. Thanks for the help!
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