Leveling motorhome

[bulletbob]

I have a Vegas 25.5 that has full side slide and only rear stabilizers. It also would tilt with the slide extended. I purchased a pair of heavy duty BAL scissor jacks and mounted one on driver’s side frame rail behind front wheel and in front of slide. After leveling Motorhome, I crank the scissor jack down using my cordless drill with 18” extension. That extra “stabilizing point” fixed the problem. Didn’t have to install the 2d jack. Just make sure you find a mounting spot that when the jack is raised for travel it is not a new low point.

[Bob Denman]

A very practical solution!

[DogLovers]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Stabilizers aren't designed to level an RV. Their job is to simply keep the rig from rocking on it's suspension as you move around inside it.

Exactly right!

[Bob Denman]

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[M&M_MURPHYS]

Our full slide affects our leveling by 2 inches after it is deployed. It does me no good to be perfectly level before the slide goes out. Our solution is hard to explain in a post but I will give it a shot -

Based on my situation, (using blocks and no auto leveling system) I suggest you get level inexpensive stick on indicators / bubbles for front to back and side to side and permanently attach them (with optional small screws) to your rig when it is level with your slide out. If you install them with your rig level you will know how to compensate when you are not level...

So. get the bubble indicators that show how many inches you are out of level / unlevel. These are common and I believe even Camco makes these. Knowing how many inches out of level you are on arrival makes it easy to add the right amount of one inch blocks to get level at your site after the slide is out.

In our case we know the rig will automatically be 2 inches lower on the driver side when the slide goes out. When I pull into a site we check the level indicators. So If my slide / driver side is an inch low before my slide even goes out, I know that I need to add three inches of blocks to ultimately get level. That way I am accommodating for the one inch already out of level with the slide in but also compensating for when the slide goes out and the rig tilts another 2 inches.

Bear in mind, that you may also need to compensate for front to back too and that one wheel may require more blocks on top of the ones added for the slide to take care of the slide affect. This get confusing but you get used to figuring it out after a few times.

SO if I am down one inch front to back and one inch side to side before the slide even goes out I would block this way - One block on the front wheel passenger (non slide) side and FOUR on the driver side front wheel.

Then I add 3 blocks to the back tire on the driver side. This adds three inches to the side. Combined, this addresses the front and side blocks I need to end up level when the slide goes out.

In my experience This is the most basic way to do it without buying any additional leveling aids. It can be mind bending at times but once you get used to it it works OK.

[Rpayne5320]

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice seems like leveling jacks is in my future

[CHS]

Originally Posted by Rpayne5320

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice seems like leveling jacks is in my future

They do make life easy. Good luck. Whichever brand you buy. I suggest you go the manufacturer to get them installed. Usually less installation issues. Living in Kentucky your probably half way to one of them. Ours are in the south border of Michigan (Bigfoot)