Omni/Magnitude front cap fix

[Lamokadave]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

It would be the best route to take. Not knowing others comfort level with some of the steps I took, putting in bigger SS sheet metal screws is an upgrade over the small, cheap self tapping screws Thor used, which will break with the cap movement and flexing.

If anyone wants to take some of the steps I used but are uncomfortable with doing it, I will help out anyway that I can.

I'll definitely squirrel that invitation away. We actually got approved by Thor to address the bulging molding on the front passenger side. We brought it to a local dealer and gave them lots of info re what others have found with cap separation. Several hrs later they were done. Said they removed and replaced a broken screw. I'm sure not too long from now I'll be into it myself attempting to replicate some of what you have shared

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Lamokadave

I'll definitely squirrel that invitation away. We actually got approved by Thor to address the bulging molding on the front passenger side. We brought it to a local dealer and gave them lots of info re what others have found with cap separation. Several hrs later they were done. Said they removed and replaced a broken screw. I'm sure not too long from now I'll be into it myself attempting to replicate some of what you have shared

What ever I can help with let me know.

[Ned]

On a scale of 1-10, what would you estimate the skill level to tackle this project? I think I'm handy, have a decent tool selection. Patience is my achilles' heel lol

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Ned

On a scale of 1-10, what would you estimate the skill level to tackle this project? I think I'm handy, have a decent tool selection. Patience is my achilles' heel lol

Tough one for me to answer. I have an Aviation background, building my own race cars for a long time and fixing my broken farm equipment. If I had to put a number on it, a 7 maybe. There is nothing real technical about it even if you can't Tig weld you can pay someone to weld the frame and pedestal mount for you.
Take your time and if you have a question or unsure on anything, ask, I will help all I can.

[Gmthrust]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

I removed one of the screws and sent a drill bit thru hoping that it would come out thru the metal roof frame so I could install the #10 SS machine screw and get a poly lock nut on it, and it did HOORAY! I removed all the cheap self tapping screws, drilled out the hole and installed the SS fasteners, It was a little difficult getting my hand up in the ceiling to put on the washer and nut, but I improvised and over came the tight area.

What is the purpose of the masking tape? Was it to hold the washers in place? and did you have a helper to get the poly lock nut tightened?

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

Tough one for me to answer. I have an Aviation background, building my own race cars for a long time and fixing my broken farm equipment. If I had to put a number on it, a 7 maybe. There is nothing real technical about it even if you can't Tig weld you can pay someone to weld the frame and pedestal mount for you.
Take your time and if you have a question or unsure on anything, ask, I will help all I can.

Kevin were you formerly with the AZ ARNG at WAATS? Your aviation and racing car background sounds familiar.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Gmthrust

What is the purpose of the masking tape? Was it to hold the washers in place? and did you have a helper to get the poly lock nut tightened?

If you're talking about the tape on the bolts through the roof, that was to keep the bolt and and washer in place while I started the poly lock nut on, trying to get 2 hands in there was tough so the tape held the washer in place and kept the bolt from getting pushed back up.
No helper on tightening the fasteners.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Kevin were you formerly with the AZ ARNG at WAATS? Your aviation and racing car background sounds familiar.

No sir I was not with the AZ ARNG. I was never in the military, should of went the military route because after 2 aeronautical schools and 1 university it would of been a whole lot cheaper
I have been drag racing for about 30 years now and looking forward to spring so I can get back to the tracks.

[thehotarc@yahoo.com]

Kwplot, do you or any other magnitude/omni owners know where the low point drains are located? there's a sticker in the water bay by the flush for the black tank but no valve?

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by thehotarc@yahoo.com

Kwplot, do you or any other magnitude/omni owners know where the low point drains are located? there's a sticker in the water bay by the flush for the black tank but no valve?

I replied to your other thread on it.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

No sir I was not with the AZ ARNG. I was never in the military, should of went the military route because after 2 aeronautical schools and 1 university it would of been a whole lot cheaper
I have been drag racing for about 30 years now and looking forward to spring so I can get back to the tracks.

[Gmthrust]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

No sir I was not with the AZ ARNG. I was never in the military, should of went the military route because after 2 aeronautical schools and 1 university it would of been a whole lot cheaper
I have been drag racing for about 30 years now and looking forward to spring so I can get back to the tracks.

Let me know when you’re over in the Orlando area (Bithlo), I’ll come watch.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by Gmthrust

Let me know when you’re over in the Orlando area (Bithlo), I’ll come watch.

If I get down to Orlando Speed World I will let you know.

[Gmthrust]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

I removed one of the screws and sent a drill bit thru hoping that it would come out thru the metal roof frame so I could install the #10 SS machine screw and get a poly lock nut on it, and it did HOORAY! I removed all the cheap self tapping screws, drilled out the hole and installed the SS fasteners, It was a little difficult getting my hand up in the ceiling to put on the washer and nut, but I improvised and over came the tight area.

I’m reviving this thread to let people know one thing about those screws in the roof. I tried the same thing, it thought, why wouldn’tI be able to do the same? After all, I have the same model. Nope! All my current screws were about one inch behind the metal frame. So all those “massive” one inch screws, we’re just drilled into fiberglass and the wood roof. I should’ve known due to the fact that the trim on both drivers and passenger side curved back one inch from the trim on the sides (which were through metal). So I had to drill new holes and put in the SS bolts like Kevin did. I then sealed with sikaflex and eternabond tape.
I feel much more confident about the roof cap area now being secured.

[pohoda]

Been following this thread with all of Kevin's and other's input, but never thought I'd be here. Turns out I had a major water leak on the cab windshield and as Thor quality goes peeling back the layers of the onion only exposed more and more issues. The worst of it was I had mold starting to grow from water that had been leaking for a while and this year in Southern CA we have had more rain than I have seen in over a decade. So I started pulling stuff apart to get the mold taken care of and before I knew it I had ripped out all the panels and plastic molded pieces including the glued in ones. I am almost done with sealing up the windshield with one last spot that still drips with extreme rain, but I have been able to seal from the inside also with SikaFlex 221 and will add another bead at the top of the window where water accumulates...maybe even some eternabond. Now I have to figure out how I am going to get these panels back in and what glue to use. Loctite has an adhesive/sealer https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...156418#overlay that I am thinking might work, but how I am going to be able to apply this glue to the panel and then put it in place without getting it all over is going to be fun. While I am at it I'm going to add through bolts on the roof to secure the cap to the metal frame, lap seal it, eternabond it, and be done. While I have it apart I am going to insulate everything and seal up all the stuff Thor missed, but I may just go with the non-blow in insulation type since I have all the panels off and could just place it in there before hand. I am also just going to abandon the motorized shade and just use this shade https://www.heatshieldstore.com/car-...-omni-standard or maybe keep the Thor shade with motor mechanism removed for manual operation. Including a picture of what the cab looks like with all the panels out. I will say it makes things much easier to seal around the front cab windshield when you can access it from the bottom side, but man this is going to be a project to put all back together. I wanted to take it in somewhere to have them do it at a shop I know around here that is good, but they are all so busy right now. I am open to any suggestions and hopefully my journey in this will help add to the this awesome thread that Kevin put together.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by pohoda

Been following this thread with all of Kevin's and other's input, but never thought I'd be here. Turns out I had a major water leak on the cab windshield and as Thor quality goes peeling back the layers of the onion only exposed more and more issues. The worst of it was I had mold starting to grow from water that had been leaking for a while and this year in Southern CA we have had more rain than I have seen in over a decade. So I started pulling stuff apart to get the mold taken care of and before I knew it I had ripped out all the panels and plastic molded pieces including the glued in ones. I am almost done with sealing up the windshield with one last spot that still drips with extreme rain, but I have been able to seal from the inside also with SikaFlex 221 and will add another bead at the top of the window where water accumulates...maybe even some eternabond. Now I have to figure out how I am going to get these panels back in and what glue to use. Loctite has an adhesive/sealer https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...156418#overlay that I am thinking might work, but how I am going to be able to apply this glue to the panel and then put it in place without getting it all over is going to be fun. While I am at it I'm going to add through bolts on the roof to secure the cap to the metal frame, lap seal it, eternabond it, and be done. While I have it apart I am going to insulate everything and seal up all the stuff Thor missed, but I may just go with the non-blow in insulation type since I have all the panels off and could just place it in there before hand. I am also just going to abandon the motorized shade and just use this shade https://www.heatshieldstore.com/car-...-omni-standard or maybe keep the Thor shade with motor mechanism removed for manual operation. Including a picture of what the cab looks like with all the panels out. I will say it makes things much easier to seal around the front cab windshield when you can access it from the bottom side, but man this is going to be a project to put all back together. I wanted to take it in somewhere to have them do it at a shop I know around here that is good, but they are all so busy right now. I am open to any suggestions and hopefully my journey in this will help add to the this awesome thread that Kevin put together.

You have a big job ahead of you. If you need any help or suggestions let me know, I will gladly help in anyway that I can.
I am happy to report that my front cap is doing great after several thousand miles.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

You have a big job ahead of you. If you need any help or suggestions let me know, I will gladly help in anyway that I can.
I am happy to report that my front cap is doing great after several thousand miles.

Kevin how many calls and letters has TMC sent you asking for your guidance or suggestions how they could make their product better or safer???

I guess that same question goes to judge in reference to the failed repair the factory did to him and what he suggests. With judge's situation and repair of the slide mechanism, what does TMC want to know from him in a sort of "action action report"?

[pohoda]

Originally Posted by kwplot34

You have a big job ahead of you. If you need any help or suggestions let me know, I will gladly help in anyway that I can.
I am happy to report that my front cap is doing great after several thousand miles.

Much appreciated Kevin. Your thread was on my mind as I was ripping this apart. What are your thoughts on the Loctite adhesive that I linked or do you have another you might recommend to glue the plastic molded pieces back? I am thinking whatever I use has to be pretty strong and what Thor used was in some spots very hard to remove and even took a little of the glass with it. The large side panels were all held in place with these large velcro pieces many of which had already stopped sticking or were not holding at all. The window frame does hold the one side molding on and that piece is critical to getting a good seal on the window as it added to the thickness needed for the window frame trim to cinch down on it. I am not against just using some screws with the decorative buttons like I did on the headboard trim that was also just velcro glued on.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by pohoda

Much appreciated Kevin. Your thread was on my mind as I was ripping this apart. What are your thoughts on the Loctite adhesive that I linked or do you have another you might recommend to glue the plastic molded pieces back? I am thinking whatever I use has to be pretty strong and what Thor used was in some spots very hard to remove and even took a little of the glass with it. The large side panels were all held in place with these large velcro pieces many of which had already stopped sticking or were not holding at all. The window frame does hold the one side molding on and that piece is critical to getting a good seal on the window as it added to the thickness needed for the window frame trim to cinch down on it. I am not against just using some screws with the decorative buttons like I did on the headboard trim that was also just velcro glued on.

I don't see an issue with using that adhesive, it's used on fiberglass and flexible.
Oh wow, the large side panels are held on by velcro, Thor is getting lazy,mine have screws that hold them on. I had to put screws in our headboard also, the velcro didn't even hold it up for one year.

[kwplot34]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Kevin how many calls and letters has TMC sent you asking for your guidance or suggestions how they could make their product better or safer???

I guess that same question goes to judge in reference to the failed repair the factory did to him and what he suggests. With judge's situation and repair of the slide mechanism, what does TMC want to know from him in a sort of "action action report"?

LOL! I'm surprised Thor has not contacted me to take down this thread and others so people can't see what kind of crap they're shoving out the door.