Thor Delano - dead chassis battery?

[holtcg]

Just to note here, I did check the panel after it had been sitting a few days and the chassis battery reading was accurate on ours.

It sounds like you have a missing connection from the chassis battery to the Rapid Camp system. Especially if you are getting a good battery indication on the dash, and/or have tested the battery.

Something that's nice to have around:
I have a Solar brand battery tester, about $55 on Amazon that I've had and relied upon for a long time. Pretty simple to use and easier than taking your rig to Autozone or hauling out the battery. If your CCA is far below rating, you might have a bad battery. These are better than a voltmeter because a battery can still put out more than 12v and have almost no cranking amps. these are the ones that will strand you in very cold or hot weather.

[MLP]

Harbor Freight has a battery load tester for $19.99 and is good for 6 and 12V batteries. A simple multi meter will test voltage and a good one does not cost much.

[RVRaidermike]

So just to update everyone: I'm a newbie idiot [emoji1751]

The chassis battery was low due to the "normal" parasitic drain that's pretty common in the sprinter. Been starting it every other day or so, and it's been fine.

The house battery was the one I originally was referring to, even though it clearly says "house" and "chassis", I guess I didn't pay enough attention.

Appreciate all the replies, we're actually at an RV park for the first time with it, and so far so good [emoji106]

[MLP]

First the only stupid questions are the ones that are not asked and you are not an idiot just inexperienced. Back when I had a Class C, I added a disconnect switch on the battery. When it was in storage it eliminated the parasitic drain problems. With the chassis battery the way to tell it is on the way out is to watch when the headlights brighten when you start to rev the engine. The battery needs to be replaced. I still test the battery(s) by load testing once a year.