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Old 08-27-2021, 10:13 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryD View Post
there is duct work connecting the front and rear. Air was blowing thru the front unit duct even though it was turned off. Tested by turning rear on and off and proved that the rear blows air into the front. There also seems to be updates of making the unit more efficient. No gaps, nothing to seal, they even have their own version of the pyramid thing to isolate each side and make it more efficient. See attached photos.

Attachment 33126

Attachment 33127


So, put a front window cover, the kind that goes from passenger door window, over windshield then over drivers door window ($36 on Amz) and that alone made a nearly 10 degree difference.
Not sure what your pictures are suppose to show but that's just a standard old Coleman ceiling plate there. There generally are two ducts running the length of the RV and both, and in the case of 2 ducted units, both a/c units dump into those 2 ducts. There are no one way check valves on an a/c to only allow air to go one way. Having it that way means you can run one unit at the other end of the RV and get cooling air throughout. If there were check valves incorporated it would complicate a simple a/c and potentially reduce the airflow and cost a bunch more. Some manufacturers such as Grand Design in their better RVs utilize a race track ducting, think that's what the call it, to allow air to go on both sides and cross over. In the case of Thor and what we're talking about, I'm pretty sure that's not what's here. Just poor installation.

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Old 08-28-2021, 12:38 AM   #42
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gotcha... I assumed rear unit did bedroom and front unit did kitchen etc. The photos at RV Airflow, the manufacturer of that styrofoam triangle are very different than what I have...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...f?v=1593259112
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:48 AM   #43
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Most effective changes

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Originally Posted by LarryD View Post
2021 Magnitude SV34. ANything over an outside temp 90+ and the units seem to struggle. THe bedroom unit can keep temp at 70-72 but the forward unit is always ~10 degrees warmer. Durring the hottest part of the day the living room/kitchen area never gets below 82 while the bedroom (open door) gets to ~72. Both units blow cold(ish) but I never hear the compressor cycle. In the evening everything returns to normal and the coach can get down to 60's. Anyone else experience this?
I've done nearly every item suggested on this forum-all of which were incrementally helpful. The most effective were:

--Arrive at the campsite with the coach cool. Run roof A/C while driving and insulate the doghouse to decrease engine heat in coach.

--Bought SunGuard window shades for outside of windshield and two side windows. Put on immediately after parking.

--Installed insulated curtain to block front of RV. Most of the heat comes from this area.

--Insulate all skylights, including the bathroom. I use removable insulated cushions where possible.

All of the above makes a big difference.
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Old 09-01-2021, 06:20 PM   #44
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Close your big slide and start the ACs before you need them.

Also as noted close all shades. You should be OK with that.
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Old 09-01-2021, 07:09 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by twovillagers View Post
I've done nearly every item suggested on this forum-all of which were incrementally helpful. The most effective were:

--Arrive at the campsite with the coach cool. Run roof A/C while driving and insulate the doghouse to decrease engine heat in coach.

--Bought SunGuard window shades for outside of windshield and two side windows. Put on immediately after parking.

--Installed insulated curtain to block front of RV. Most of the heat comes from this area.

--Insulate all skylights, including the bathroom. I use removable insulated cushions where possible.

All of the above makes a big difference.

Also clean your condenser. Mine didn't look very dirty, but cleaning it still seemed to help.
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Old 09-01-2021, 07:44 PM   #46
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Thumbs up

Welcome to the club. I go camping in my 2014 Thor Citation in August in south Mississippi 96 degree heat with 95 % humidity (remember 100 % humidity is rain). My little A/C struggles to bring the temp down.
My solution is to take a portable on rollers 6000 btu A/C using 10.5 amp along.
I'm in heaven after that.
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:04 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by twovillagers View Post
I've done nearly every item suggested on this forum-all of which were incrementally helpful. The most effective were:

--Arrive at the campsite with the coach cool. Run roof A/C while driving and insulate the doghouse to decrease engine heat in coach.

--Bought SunGuard window shades for outside of windshield and two side windows. Put on immediately after parking.

--Installed insulated curtain to block front of RV. Most of the heat comes from this area.

--Insulate all skylights, including the bathroom. I use removable insulated cushions where possible.

All of the above makes a big difference.

Great suggestions. In my experience reducing heat loads is much easier than making an existing A/C cool more than it was designed for.

A lot of air conditioning load is associated with solar heat gain, and I prefer to keep it out rather than trying to remove it after it has entered the motorhome. When parked in sun, covering windows on outside is very effective.
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Old 09-01-2021, 09:38 PM   #48
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Here I think is the link I tried to do earlier for AC

https://youtube.com/shorts/dGwATVb7bnQ?feature=share
After https://youtube.com/shorts/ykudVQMNFE4?feature=share
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:10 PM   #49
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Since the back of your RV is colder than the front, have you tried to use a fan to push the colder air toward the front. It is not ideal, but helps.
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:52 AM   #50
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Havent scoped it yet but this cant be good.... I have one like this up front also.

Attachment 33120
The vent is inside out (backwards).
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Old 09-02-2021, 05:22 PM   #51
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A/C mod

Hello, I have done all the recommended fixes to get my a/c to perform better. The last one was an item I purchased. I had to make some modifications for it to work in my 2016 Thor Vegas with the Coleman 13,500 btu unit. The company worked with me and helped with fitment. They install these rv airflow items in grand design 5th wheels at the factory. Just check them out and see what you think. I am not interested in making any kickback from it. I just wanted to let you know what worked for us. There is a coupon for 15% off somewhere.
V/r
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:24 PM   #52
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So i have the ace 30.4, the ford f53 airconditioner pretty much doesnt work at all. My chevy v8 blew cold as soon as i turned her on. Kept that 22 he cool.

You have to run all three ac units when its 95 deg out. Run the camper, front and back ac unit. It might help a little.
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Old 09-03-2021, 10:57 AM   #53
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Window Awnings will help a lot. Keeping your AC coils cleaned will allow your unit to run at max capacity. I’m assuming you already have Windows and Windshield Covered during the heat of the day.
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Old 09-03-2021, 11:32 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Chucke View Post
Hello, I have done all the recommended fixes to get my a/c to perform better. The last one was an item I purchased. I had to make some modifications for it to work in my 2016 Thor Vegas with the Coleman 13,500 btu unit. The company worked with me and helped with fitment. They install these rv airflow items in grand design 5th wheels at the factory. Just check them out and see what you think. I am not interested in making any kickback from it. I just wanted to let you know what worked for us. There is a coupon for 15% off somewhere.
V/r
Chuck
RV Airflow makes a difference. I had a shallow plenum. Was made for a deeper plenum. A little carving with a hacksaw blade and she fit like a charm. Can’t use the air dump anymore but made it much more efficient and increased airflow. Eliminates the mixing of intake and output. Also use the Sunshade screens on windshield and side windows.

However, am not promoting a product!
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Old 09-03-2021, 12:14 PM   #55
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Foam insert

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Originally Posted by Thomas M View Post
Google rv ac hacks great ideas there. I did the one where you use 1” foam to create a v that send air directly to ceiling vents. Less than 20:00 and about an hour of time and 2 beers. Btw best thing I ever did. Ac keeps up and cools great. There is one thing you lose that is the use of the vent on ac to dump air into area fast but you will find air flow is better and return air better.
The day I picked my coach up I knew practically no air coming from bath vent. I fix things myself if I can. First thing I did was block off the ducts past the forward and rear vents. It helped a lot. Then I made my own foam hack for inside the a/c unit itself. It made a HUGE difference. In heat index temps here in SW Florida above 100 my unit cycles a fraction of the times it did before the fixes. I keep A/C on all the time at 88 so it is always fresh and cool inside. During winter when humidity and temps are lower I pull air through with one fantastic fan with the second open for circulation.

It cost me about 6.00 vs buying the ready made one… and no, I don’t miss the air dump feature at all.
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Old 09-03-2021, 01:08 PM   #56
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Assuming your air conditioners are working, it's time to have your windows tinted. Light tint on the "greenhouse" windshield and side windows up front that you use for looking at outside mirrors and heavier tint on any higher windows up front. I must tell you that tinting the windshield might not be legal but many do it and it's hardly noticeable and with the right tint product, very effective.
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Old 09-03-2021, 01:12 PM   #57
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This works for me

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Originally Posted by abjbrtd View Post
Here's a very long but VERY good ac read
When you have a week or so it's a very good read, till then
Read pg1.

Notice the comment about the divider, taping it in place is easy to do and if yours is like most it will make a big differance! Use aluminium duct tape on side, top and CORNER and JOINT ac unit and duct.

Next big easy upgrade is to drop the vents at both ends of your mh. Block the duct just beyond the vent, this will keep the ac from trying to cool the end caps
I used this, get 2 you'll be working on the roof unit after reading a few pages of the thread.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchT...log=4294765360

Here's the thread, I have it bookmarked

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...ice-12980.html
I did this to the vents in my unit and it increased the airflow out of the individual vent s. Are you also removed the grill under the air conditioner and spend some time with aluminum tape making sure that all of the cracks were taped so that there was no air flow between the inlet and the return. Here in Florida where of course the sun bakes on the roof air conditioner I removed the shroud bought some reflectix insulation and added a layer of insulation over the air baffle /return air side. Not the compressor side . I also added tinting to all of the coach windows here in Florida we're allowed to tint the driver and the passenger window.
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Old 09-03-2021, 02:25 PM   #58
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Model: 2022 Chateau 31W
State: Florida
Posts: 25
THOR #24543
To all..

Thanks to all who have and continue to contribute to this thread. It's incredibly helpful and there are now multiple things on my to do list to help improve the forward a/c in my unit.
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Old 09-14-2022, 02:40 AM   #59
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Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
State: Florida
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For all of the complaints about people having A/C issues in their coaches, I have to say I still could not be more pleased with the performance of the A/C in my ‘20 Magnitude SV34 after all the mods I did about two years ago.

After more than two weeks on the road during our current trip with temps running from 85 - 97 and having sites in full-sun with no shade, I can say the coach has been anywhere from comfortable to downright chilly.

I didn’t even bother putting in the insulated cushions in the fan vents and the A/C still performed great. With outside air temps at 95, the air coming out of my vents was right around 56 - 57 degrees and mid to low 70’s in the center of the coach. Now humdity levels were low but I got similar performance last year when temps were in the 90’s and the humidity was high.

Insulating the evaporator enclosures on the roof, cleaning up Thor’s cappy ductwork, installing an RVAir Flow in the the front A/C, closing the curtain in the cab-over bunk and using the WeatherTech F550 Full Cab Sun Shade Kit keeps my coach as cool as I could hope for in an uninsulated box on wheels.

Installing the RVSoftStarts this year let me run both A/C’s when we only had 30A service at one site as well.

The mods also help me run one of my A/C’s off my new Inverter and keep the coach comfortable at night as well without having to run continuously when we boondock a night here and there.

I have to give my A/C system a 9 out of 10! [emoji106]
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Old 09-15-2022, 09:33 PM   #60
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Model: FourWinds SK 35
State: Virginia
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I am with Judge I cleaned all the vents also did the ac mod also traveling in 95 degrees weather and we have been very comfortable. Recommend doing it
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