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Old 06-12-2024, 09:36 PM   #1
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Model: Tellaro 20L
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THOR #31920
2nd Solar panel and improved mounting

Moving the existing panel forward provided just enough room for a 2nd panel.


After reading about others having their panels "come flying off", I looked closely at the mounts on the existing one and found them significantly compromised.

(note the dark black line which is a crack)

This lead to me to significantly beefing up the existing mount in this manner.


I used rivnuts in the sidewall of the panel as it is a hollow extrusion and thru bolts with nuts would risk collapsing and distorting the frame.


They are installed with this tool.


And look like this when installed.


The new SS bolts were installed with blue Loctite threadlocker.


I feel much better about the mount now. Here is an inside view.


On another note, I joined the panels together using the same rivnuts.


Dave
2022 Tellaro 20L

PS - the single panel installation had a 20 amp fuse in the controller circuit which was changed to 30 amp. Only took 1 sunny afternoon to blow the 20 amp fuse which I failed to check.

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Old 06-12-2024, 10:24 PM   #2
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Great writeup! But next time use the Picture Icon to insert the pictures so they show up in the body of the post. Otherwise you get a bunch of links to the pictures.
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Old 06-12-2024, 10:45 PM   #3
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THOR #16721
Interesting and creative use of Rivnuts! They were used on my TJ to hold fenders on.
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:10 AM   #4
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THOR #31920
OK, I'll see how to that...When I click the picture icon, it says "please enter the URL of your image".

Hmmmm, what should I do differently? I see pictures on the original post, not links.
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drichct View Post
OK, I'll see how to that...When I click the picture icon, it says "please enter the URL of your image".

Hmmmm, what should I do differently? I see pictures on the original post, not links.
Cuz I fixed them for you.


Check out this tutorial:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...res-33712.html
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:19 AM   #6
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THOR #31920
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Cuz I fixed them for you.


Check out this tutorial:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...res-33712.html
Thanks, I'll do better next time
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Old 06-13-2024, 04:16 PM   #7
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Nice install.

How did you wire-up the second panel? Series or parallel? Differences that you are seeing in the upgraded system?

Thanks?
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Old 06-13-2024, 08:56 PM   #8
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THOR #27962
Quote:
Originally Posted by drichct View Post
Moving the existing panel forward provided just enough room for a 2nd panel.


After reading about others having their panels "come flying off", I looked closely at the mounts on the existing one and found them significantly compromised.

(note the dark black line which is a crack)

This lead to me to significantly beefing up the existing mount in this manner.


I used rivnuts in the sidewall of the panel as it is a hollow extrusion and thru bolts with nuts would risk collapsing and distorting the frame.


They are installed with this tool.


And look like this when installed.


The new SS bolts were installed with blue Loctite threadlocker.


I feel much better about the mount now. Here is an inside view.


On another note, I joined the panels together using the same rivnuts.


Dave
2022 Tellaro 20L

PS - the single panel installation had a 20 amp fuse in the controller circuit which was changed to 30 amp. Only took 1 sunny afternoon to blow the 20 amp fuse which I failed to check.
What a coincidence! Did the exact same thing last weekend but without the rivnuts. Great use though.

I added a 200w panel (Rich Solar) and used beefier standoff brackets. I also replaced the existing panel brackets with the new ones and used much improved t-slot bolts. The existing ďt-slot boltsĒ were sketchy.

I didnít use any rivnuts but that looks like a nice idea. I used nylock nuts, blue threadlocker, lock washers and double nutted depending upon how accessible things were.

Wired in series. Earlier I had installed a solar disconnect and upgraded the controller to 30a MPPT from 10a.
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Old 06-14-2024, 12:54 AM   #9
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2nd panel wiring and chassis battery drain issue

[ATTACH]Attachment 46466[/ATTACH]
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatnxtRV View Post
Nice install.

How did you wire-up the second panel? Series or parallel? Differences that you are seeing in the upgraded system?

Thanks?
The wiring was in parallel, as provided by the Y Connectors included in the expansion kit: https://gopowersolar.com/products/ov...xpansion-200w/



The installation instructions are attached showing parallel connection..

Today the 2 panels kept the coach batteries at 100% despite having the inverter on all day to power a trickle charger on the chassis battery. I am exploring options for keeping the chassis battery alive as it completely drains in a week requiring use of the "emergency start". Doesn't seem like a good thing to let the chassis battery to completely discharge.

I am pondering a separate 50W inverter connected directly to the coach batteries (with a switch) to power a 2 amp maintainer to keep the chassis battery alive. The solar panels should be quite able to handle this small added load.

Would like to hear how others addressed the chassis battery drain problem.

Dave
2022 Tellaro 20L
Attached Files
File Type: pdf installation details.pdf (30.4 KB, 22 views)
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Old 06-14-2024, 01:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drichct View Post
[ATTACH]Attachment 46466[/ATTACH]

The wiring was in parallel, as provided by the Y Connectors included in the expansion kit: https://gopowersolar.com/products/ov...xpansion-200w/



The installation instructions are attached showing parallel connection..

Today the 2 panels kept the coach batteries at 100% despite having the inverter on all day to power a trickle charger on the chassis battery. I am exploring options for keeping the chassis battery alive as it completely drains in a week requiring use of the "emergency start". Doesn't seem like a good thing to let the chassis battery to completely discharge.

I am pondering a separate 50W inverter connected directly to the coach batteries (with a switch) to power a 2 amp maintainer to keep the chassis battery alive. The solar panels should be quite able to handle this small added load.

Would like to hear how others addressed the chassis battery drain problem.

Dave
2022 Tellaro 20L
Not sure about vans, but most motorhomes have a Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) which monitors voltages between house and chassis batteries... connecting them as needed to prevent what you describe.

I have a class C with solar on the roof... all batteries are kept at 100% when the rig is sitting idle, with absolutely no intervention. It just works.
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Old 06-14-2024, 02:40 AM   #11
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Dave,
Thank you for the information. Another project.

Jorry
2023 Rize 18M
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Old 06-14-2024, 02:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Not sure about vans, but most motorhomes have a Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) which monitors voltages between house and chassis batteries... connecting them as needed to prevent what you describe.

I have a class C with solar on the roof... all batteries are kept at 100% when the rig is sitting idle, with absolutely no intervention. It just works.
No BIM on the Sequence/Tellaro vans. There is only an emergency start switch to a Trombetta connection.

The GoPower 30a MPPT controller does have two outputs, one of which can connect to the chassis.
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Old 06-14-2024, 03:40 AM   #13
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THOR #30506
Nice work!! I have to inspect mine for cracks!! now- I added a 2nd panel and replaced the feet, and the side mending plate solves the problem of tightening the foot on awning side in the middle!! I struggled with that 2X on mine and another.
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Old 06-14-2024, 01:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCP View Post
No BIM on the Sequence/Tellaro vans. There is only an emergency start switch to a Trombetta connection.

The GoPower 30a MPPT controller does have two outputs, one of which can connect to the chassis.
I should qualify this by saying it applies to the Sequence/Tellaros that have the LiFePo4 battery setup with the underhood generator (UHG). Not sure, but the vans with AGM and Onan generators may have a BIM.
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Old 06-14-2024, 02:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MCP View Post
I should qualify this by saying it applies to the Sequence/Tellaros that have the LiFePo4 battery setup with the underhood generator (UHG). Not sure, but the vans with AGM and Onan generators may have a BIM.
The Precision Circuits Li-BIM225 (for lithium batteries) isn't perfect... but it works great in conjunction with solar to keep house lithium and a chassis LA battery topped off. Just replace your Trombetta with it and you still have your emergency start function PLUS no more dead chassis battery.
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Old 06-14-2024, 06:54 PM   #16
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THOR #31920
no 2nd output on the controller :(

Quote:
Originally Posted by MCP View Post
No BIM on the Sequence/Tellaro vans. There is only an emergency start switch to a Trombetta connection.

The GoPower 30a MPPT controller does have two outputs, one of which can connect to the chassis.
Unfortunately, I have the GP-PWM-30-SQ with only 1 output. Otherwise, this would be a perfect solution.

Dave
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Old 06-14-2024, 08:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by drichct View Post
Unfortunately, I have the GP-PWM-30-SQ with only 1 output. Otherwise, this would be a perfect solution.

Dave
I have not had the dead battery issue although the parasitic draw is a concern. I use it frequently enough that it isnít a problem. When not used frequently I simply attach either a small solar panel and toss it on the dash (or roof) or I connect a Battery Minder. Either can be easily plugged in to the pigtail connector attached at the battery below the floor. Simple and easy.

Eventually Iíll connect the controller battery 2 output to the chassis battery terminal at the trombetta as others on the forum have done.

Note photo should be rotated 90 to right.
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Old 06-14-2024, 09:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCP View Post
I have not had the dead battery issue although the parasitic draw is a concern. I use it frequently enough that it isnít a problem. When not used frequently I simply attach either a small solar panel and toss it on the dash (or roof) or I connect a Battery Minder. Either can be easily plugged in to the pigtail connector attached at the battery below the floor. Simple and easy.

Eventually Iíll connect the controller battery 2 output to the chassis battery terminal at the trombetta as others on the forum have done.

Note photo should be rotated 90 to right.
Duck Sticky for you:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...ays-20421.html
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Old 06-16-2024, 01:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
The Precision Circuits Li-BIM225 (for lithium batteries) isn't perfect... but it works great in conjunction with solar to keep house lithium and a chassis LA battery topped off. Just replace your Trombetta with it and you still have your emergency start function PLUS no more dead chassis battery.
Went looking for the Trombetta and found it mounted on the underside of the floor (outside), close to the batteries and exposed to all the elements. Does not look like an appropriate place to install the Li-BIM225. Does look to be a perfect solution otherwise. Maybe there is a way to enclose it or move it inside.

Dave
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Old 06-16-2024, 01:31 AM   #20
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If you have the bank account for buying appropriate length and gauge cables, you can locate it about anywhere in the circuit between house and chassis batteries. The Trombetta on my class C was on the driver side firewall, convenient for ignition circuit and emergency start circuit - both of which connect to the BIM. So I just used the same location. It's up high enough to stay dry, but gets typical road grime/dust etc. It's sealed, so no harm.
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