Controls for Solar controller in ‘23 Tellaro?

[jpzlaw]

As I look the controller behind the lower drawer in the back I don’t see any controls on the unit. I’m thinking there may be a time when I’d at least like to turn it off. Like if I want to determine exactly how large my parasitic drains are. Or if I’m in direct sunlight at high noon, cuz when I do the math, in theory, I could be putting 14 amps into my 10 amp controller. I’ve thrown a towel over the panel but I’d prefer a switch.

And how can you check the batt type setting is correct?

Am I missing something or is there really no way to control the controller?

[DavidEM]

If you have the Go Power 10A controller, then like most solar controllers there is little to control. You do have to select the type of battery which is done with the Battery Type button. After that, there is nothing to control.

If you want to turn it off temporarily, then install a switch or just temporarily pull the fuse out of the holder on the red wire that connects to the battery.

If you don’t have one, the Go Power manual is attached.

Sounds like you have two 100 watt panels connected to a 10A controller. That is too much IMO, but lots do it. Unless you RV down in the tropics you will never see the max rated amperage from a panel.

David

[jpzlaw]

Hi David, thanks!

I’ll have to go back and look again closer because my controller seems to be just a black box with the 4 wires coming out the bottom. Maybe there’s a cover over the unit but it has no logo or display on it and doesn’t look like the picture!?

It’s also in a lousy place for access. I’ll check in the morning….

Best regards… Joe

[RonRM]

The 20L comes with a 10amp GoPower. The only way to 'turn it off' is by pulling the 20amp fuse wired off the 12v Coach power disconnect switch (to the left coming in the side door).

You can see a little bit of what it is doing on the BMPro, but really basic stuff.

I just ordered the GoPower GP-RVC-MPPT-30 along with the GP-RVC-R display/bluetooth remote. It's compatible with the BMPro's RV-C can-bus, but it still needs the other device to initially program it, and it only has 1 RV-C can-bus port...can't have both plugged in at the same time. I'd give up the crappy BMPro screen for the app for my phone.

There is a more expensive controller from Renogy, that is RV-C...wasn't worth the extra $300 for me. Some of the Victron stuff is also compatible...even more money.

The cool thing about the 30amp controller, is that it can handle 2 batteries each with different chemistries. So, it can be wired to charge both the lithium system as well as the chassis battery. It will also handle a second 190w panel.

You will find your 20L solar will only charge the coach batteries, it does not charge the chassis battery. When storing, make sure you at least, have a battery tender on the chassis battery.

I'm on a mission with my 20L, to make it a lot safer, easier to store and monitored a bit better...check out this link, lots of folks have contributed some great ideas to help that process.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f4...etc-33115.html

Check out some of the other posts about the UHG, cold weather charging. Good discussions on what works and what doesn't...will save you a lot of headaches

Ron