Fold up bed in Gemini 23TW

[Bluetreak]

Originally Posted by Robertiverson

Uploading several pics of what my chop up looks like with slide in and out.
Very cozy and comfortable to sleep in and use as a lounge couch. With slide in can use bed for stealth snoozing or rest while driving.

Thanks for the pics! We just came back from a trip to SC from Missouri, spending a few nights in the rig on the way down and back. The bed does take up too much space when "up" and unless you turn on the overhead lights, it can be pretty dark and the legs are treacherous. I've done the wingnut conversion and added light-colored rubber feet to replace the dark originals and to make the ends of the feet stand out if I have not removed them.

The restructuring of the bed is interesting, but our heights (6'2" and 5'7") make it seem like not for us. We'll have to see.

Right now, the rig is in for repair, the slide having gone south as we drove to SC. I am WAY too familiar with the "manual" mode of slide operation now. Not tea bag with the slide going out, but a major pain trying to poke the little un-seeable button with the sideout out and above your head!

[Robertiverson]

Stuck slide would be one of my worst nightmares. More so if it’s stuck while out. I’m sure it’s in the manual but maybe you could post a pic or two where that button is. Sounds like something needs to be depressed while help is pushing and pulling on other parts of the coach slide?

[Bluetreak]

Originally Posted by Robertiverson

Stuck slide would be one of my worst nightmares. More so if it’s stuck while out. I’m sure it’s in the manual but maybe you could post a pic or two where that button is. Sounds like something needs to be depressed while help is pushing and pulling on other parts of the coach slide?

In manual mode, you are actually using the motor to move the side in a sort of "unsupervised" fashion. Unless the slide is really binding, no pushing or pulling by people is necessary. If it's really binding, try to figure out what is causing the problem: Lost dog toy, ballpoint pen, missing cooking utensil, cabinet drawer being squished, Etc.

The "normal" way to move the slide is with the button. The controller sends power to the motors, monitors the rotation of the two drive "systems" and tries to keep both sides moving the same distance.
If there is a problem, the controller stops and flashes a green light to indicate which motor/drive system is the problem and then flashes a red light a coded number of times to indicate something of the nature of the problem. The various issues (low battery voltage, over current, Etc. can be dealt with and hopefully fixed. "Manual Mode" turns off the monitoring function of the controller and just sends power to the motors when you push the IN or OUT button. The drive systems will run (or not) and the slide will move under motor power (no human manual pushing or pulling needed). If one of the motors is not working (spinning), that side of the slide will not move and you can end up with the slide cocked at an angle in the opening. A little bit of a difference is not bad (<4" or so), more than this can be a real problem. If one side of the slide is not moving and the other is, it MAY be possible to push or pull the non-moving side. Removing the cable connector at the controller for the non-moving motor should make it easier to physically move that side.
Finally, removing the screw (from the outside, near the top of the slide) that keeps the motor engaged with the drive system and sliding the motor up and out of engagement with the drive will make it easier to move that side physically.

Note: If you are trying manual mode, you need to hold that last, 7th push for like 5 seconds until the red and green lights start to flash. Then you have around 2 minutes and can go inside and push the slide button. Stay calm, watch what the slide is doing and make sure it is moving in or out equally. if not, stop and regroup.
In my 2020 23TW, the slide controller is inside the outside compartment, up high on the wall. It's hard to see the switch you have to push, as it is mounted on the controller PC board and you get to it through a "window/opening" in the case. I had to wear a headlight to see it and using a piece of a twig, it took some positioning to get the pusher in the right location. The push is gentle and you will hear/feel a small click when you've got it right. Now do it 6 more times....
The Lippert slide room manual on their website is a decent reference, as is the Lippert help line.

[Financialgg@sbcglobal.net]

Originally Posted by Robertiverson

Stuck slide would be one of my worst nightmares. More so if it’s stuck while out. I’m sure it’s in the manual but maybe you could post a pic or two where that button is. Sounds like something needs to be depressed while help is pushing and pulling on other parts of the coach slide?

See that you are in California, might you be close to San Francisco? Trying to see one of these Thor Gemini or Compass in person so we can order one. Do you have ample room for passenger and driver leg room. It sounds like you are enjoying your rig. Appreciate your time.
GG

[Robertiverson]

Nice explanation! Thank you. I’ll look for it and become familiar. Maybe park a poke took near it for good measure. I’ve got lots of headlamps to aid my poor eyesight.

[Robertiverson]

SoCal here. Closer to San Diego. At 6’ tall and only driver on 3300 mile drive in 13 days I had zero fatigue in the driver chair. Wife had no squirming either. Chairs were rather comfy and leg room good and stretched out. I removed armrests after a few days to gain 3” of clearance moving from cab to coach. Don’t miss them cuz we never use them.

[Robertiverson]

We cut off 34” and use it on the dinette bed as a topper. Remember, 34” width is narrow for a bed but wide for a cot. So I use the dinette as a very comfy cot.

[LizB]

Thanks for the idea. Does this let you use the bench with the slide in?

[Robertiverson]

Originally Posted by LizB

Thanks for the idea. Does this let you use the bench with the slide in?

With the slide in the, the slide wood frame covers the bench. With the slide in, the modified bed can be sat on like a bench but most legs will dangle as it’s about 7” higher than the bench. For sitting and ensstchi g tv it’s great at the increased height. To put shoes on, etc it’s likely too tall for that.

You could flip the shortened mattress up against the headboard to reduce the 7” rise to about a 4” rise above the bench height. This would be a hard sitting surface.

[mbbrumm]

Why don't you remove the front bed leg and mount a wooden block support to the space in the bench cushion where the leg would go to support the bed platform from the bottom? Even if it comes up over the bench cushion it seems safer that the steel support sticking out grabbing your arm.

I do not have a TW so maybe I am missing something.

[LizB]

Originally Posted by Robertiverson

Update. May 1 returned from 13 day, 3100 mile return trip to California. Bed was a pest. Legs were removed in 30 seconds each day upon folding up bed so the legs were out of the way. Bench was useless. Wasted space of folded bed while driving was stupid. Stealth sleeping with slide in was only possible on dinette bed. Our solution the day after returning took two hours. We removed and junked the bed frame. Cut up mattress. Reinstalled mattress. We can now sleep while slide in or use it as a bench. We will continue to modify it to suit our needs. 5’ and 6’ tall, we can both lay down comfortably, just not on a queen anymore.

Thanks for sharing. We're looking at a Quantum / Echelon. It has the same bench / bed / slide arrangement in the back end. Those bed legs have got to go.

[Robertiverson]

The slide would hit anything sticking up above the cushion. A block would be to be removed to avoid getting hit. Fabricating a folding foot is a good solution if keeping the Murphy bed. We chose to trash the Murphy and are happy with results. A Velcro attached support could also work out.

Originally Posted by mbbrumm

Why don't you remove the front bed leg and mount a wooden block support to the space in the bench cushion where the leg would go to support the bed platform from the bottom? Even if it comes up over the bench cushion it seems safer that the steel support sticking out grabbing your arm.

I do not have a TW so maybe I am missing something.

[Soarer]

We also wanted to change the bed leg. I made a post in the Class B section with photos and some links to several folding shelf supports. Varies from 440-660 pounds of weight for a pair of supports. $25 well spent. No more contact bruising and the frig door opens fully with our slide retracted while traveling. Hope this helps!

[RSKDSK]

Here is what a newer one looks like

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crGtNxNGOtE

[mbbrumm]

Originally Posted by Soarer

We also wanted to change the bed leg. I made a post in the Class B section with photos and some links to several folding shelf supports. Varies from 440-660 pounds of weight for a pair of supports. $25 well spent. No more contact bruising and the frig door opens fully with our slide retracted while traveling. Hope this helps!

What a great idea! I have looked at these supports for counter extensions but never thought about using it on the bed.

[Bobboots99]

Thanks for sharing your mods to the 23TW bed. I have two questions: a) is there anything important in the "seat" at the foot of the bed? b) Could I use the current bedframe but add a hinge at the headboard and reverse the mid-bed hinge so it folds up like an inverted "U"?

This would not add sleep surfaces when slide is in, but may help with usability.

Thanks

[Soarer]

Originally Posted by Bobboots99

Thanks for sharing your mods to the 23TW bed. I have two questions: a) is there anything important in the "seat" at the foot of the bed? b) Could I use the current bedframe but add a hinge at the headboard and reverse the mid-bed hinge so it folds up like an inverted "U"?

This would not add sleep surfaces when slide is in, but may help with usability.

Thanks

Bob,
The foot of the bed might need to take the weight of a person sitting on that corner, so a strong folding support is advised. But this was such an easy fix. Literally, Jim swapped the original support with the folding support in 15 minutes!
A) Our long term goal is to build a storage box just above the fresh water tank and plumbing to just below the bed. We will remove the 3 wimpy drawers and the cushion on the bench. We plan to raise the bench top about 5” which will give us about 11” between the tank and the raised lid. (This should be able to hold ….. golf clubs!!!) With that raised lid the bed leg only needs to be 2”. So our $25 investment of the folding support will work until the future project is complete.
B). Your inverted V idea is interesting, but we have two concerns. The hinge by the head of the bed would be squeezing the mattress against the wall. That’s a lot of force on the wall. Secondly to lift the mattress in the inverted V will take a lot of arm strength to lift.

We are still cogitating about a better “bed frame hold back system” than bungee cords but nothing yet.

Lovin’ this forum with great ideas in play! Jackie

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by WAK

Hi,
We recently purchased a 2021 Gemini 23TW. When the bed is folded up, the legs at the end stick out and are dangerous. I have numerous bruises from bumping into the leg closest to the dinette. Anyone have the same problem? Suggestions?
WAK

There is a recent thread about a fix for this. Search function is your friend.

[Bobboots99]

Thanks for sharing your insights. So here's what we're doing:
1) remove matress and entire folding bedframe.
2) add 3x 8" folding shelf supports to box at foot of bed
3) put 60" x 20" x 1/2" plywood under existing cushion at foot of bed... Extend this over 8" shelf supports when slide-out is extended. (ztote under cushion before retracting)
4) add 10" x 60" x 4" thick cushion over #3 plywood extension.
5) place seat cushion + seat back cushion from table at foot of queen bed to fill gap in height difference.
6) Place Amazon 3-section 4" folding matress in place of origional bed (59" x 74"). Done.

In AM, slide matress forward creating inverted V from inner two sections leaving flat section accessible when slide is retracted.
Slide 60" plywood extension ba k under foot-chest-cushion.
Close 3 x 8" shelf supports,

Throw 10" x 60" x 4" new cushion onto bed
Retract side and have access to bed area with v-shaped cushion serving as back rest.

I'll post pics when it's done next week.

[Bobboots99]

Here are the pics of the finished outcome on our 2021 Compass 23TW


The Bed Matress is a short-queen tri-fold from Amazon
"Best Price Mattress 4 Inch Trifold Memory Foam Mattress Topper with Cover, CertiPUR-US Certified, Short Queen"

https://a.co/d/1464Z0h




The Cushion is a 36 x 60 x 4" custom cushion from CushionPros.com using Sunbrella "Spectrum Dove" fabric & Color.



We also added a 36 x 60 jute-backed rug at the bottom to add another layer of thermal isolation to the wooden floor of the slideout.


When preparing to travel, fold the mattress into a V-shape under the cabinets with one-third of the mattress coming forward like a couch. Then pull the front of the mattress forward to overhang the floor a few inches, and slide the 36 x 60 Sunbrella 4" cushion under the tri-fold bed.


We just let the 4" cushion overhang the base cabinet by 9 - 10" when in bed-mode which provides sufficient support for the foot of the tri-fold mattress. There is also nothing hard to run into when you move around the foot of the bed.


Apologies for some photos being rotated, and note that the last photo does not have the 4" cushion underneath to show the tri-fold mattress more clearly.