Gemini and Compass

[DonB]

I know I am listed as a Junior member, but I have nearly 50 years of camping experience and have significant "handyman" repair experience (4 years in a Thor).
So, has anyone converted the useless front fire escape window to an active ventilation window. It is to small to be useful as a fire escape and we need the ventilation. If not, that is fine - I will launch out and see what I can find and pass the information on to others who are interested.

[RVjon]

Refrigerator runs fine on propane and DC, on AC I get "H" fault light, indicating AC heating element bad. Does this unit have a backer heater? Is the correct part no. for the heating element 630804? Does the unit have to be removed from the wall to change out the heating element?
2018 Gemini 23TR

[RVjon]

Gemini 23tr LP generator starts but no AC power to unit. I just changed the converter and all was working well on shore power. Nothing works the same way twice on these RVs.

[Skip-Michigan]

Where is this located?

[Skip-Michigan]

Where does the new/additional pressure valve need to be added/ located?

[yukongrant]

Originally Posted by RVjon

Gemini 23tr LP generator starts but no AC power to unit. I just changed the converter and all was working well on shore power. Nothing works the same way twice on these RVs.

You may want to take a look at the thread here - https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f1...use-27433.html Similar problem so may be helpful.

You may also want to watch this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yzxx8Ht2hOs

I had the same problem with our 2019 Compass 23tr. A tech found that breaker, reset it. And we were back in business. (Try the simple things first.)

[RVjon]

fridge is located mid way aft on passenger side. drawer below with water heter below that. Storage above with tv connections. No access other than 4x12 panel on exterior of rv. Can't reach or even see the heating element where it goes inside boiler insulation.
Rv is in Miami if that was your questin

[lodcomm]

I Managed to get the Dreaded "n" code on my norcold 512 in my 2018 23TB
I found the service manual and did the control board reset procedure, and it is now working fine.

Accessing the control board through the outside access panel was quite difficult. I was unable to actually completely remove the cover due to the extremely limited space around it. As a result I could not get the cover to go back into place. It is kinda just hanging with the left side still semi snapped into place.

Has anyone ever pulled the fridge (or at least slid it forward) into the cabin? if so could you give me a basic idea of what was involved.

I need to get a bit more room in the outside access to get the cover back on properly.

thanks!

-t

[nmcmilla]

Originally Posted by lodcomm

I Managed to get the Dreaded "n" code on my norcold 512 in my 2018 23TB
I found the service manual and did the control board reset procedure, and it is now working fine.

Accessing the control board through the outside access panel was quite difficult. I was unable to actually completely remove the cover due to the extremely limited space around it. As a result I could not get the cover to go back into place. It is kinda just hanging with the left side still semi snapped into place.

Has anyone ever pulled the fridge (or at least slid it forward) into the cabin? if so could you give me a basic idea of what was involved.

I need to get a bit more room in the outside access to get the cover back on properly.

thanks!

-t

Hi Lodcomm,

I'm dealing with the dreaded n code right now. First time in 3+yrs. Not sure what triggered it (other than I tried to restart fridge with out fully understanding the triggering problem). Got an appointment to take it in Aug 18 so I can ask how they access the control board. I will post their answer here.
They will also be troubleshooting HOW I triggered it.
From my reading, I'm suspecting poor venting. Recently I had 2 solar panels installed on roof (one of which is right in front of fridge vent) and the panel wires run down the fridge vent space. I was also camped for several days where a gusty wind started up every afternoon so maybe "blow back" wind redirected down the vent? Anyway, my understanding is just resetting to get rid of code won't cure the problem until the original problem is cured (hoping it was the wind).
Nancy

[clarkwood]

I have done more N fault resets on my Gemini rental,

I feel like a Norcold Formula One "Pit Crew".

All of them was because the fridge is sensitive to levelling and if you are off level by a bit it will fault. Most were done when seriously off level and forgot. Like at a hilly Walmart parking lot, or taking the kids White Water Rafting, parked on a hill, and never turned the fridge to off. When back on level fire the fridge up at least 30 min of sitting time to let the fridge re-adjust. One N fault is a warning, second N Fault is something more serious. It is designed to prevent RV fires. Message me at clarkwoodproperties@gmail. I will forward my PDF file for renters on how to handle the N fault while being thousands of miles away from our yard. The Norcold guy has a PDF file he gives out on how. FYI to those that have reset the mother board, I have not put the back cover on as yes it is a pain to get on and off, 2. I use a simple 12v light tester with alligator clip. Attach alligator clip to chassis ground or similar in the access panel and use the point 12v probe to jumper. Works like a charm. Oh the N Fault stories I could tell about just renters doing silly things causing the fault.

[clarkwood]

Hello Nancy I have a similar 2017 Gemini TX.

To do this repair is not crazy but you do need to be handy and have a few tools say in the $20 range from Canadian Tire.

Take photos before attempting the step by steps and even low adhesive painters tape to mark and label any wiring as such. Smaller hands work best to fiddle with this repair. Skill level is about a 5-7 for the handy. Not a full on doing your own brakes repair, but up there with say replacing your fuel filter on your Mercedes Sprinter 3500. Can be done but a pain in the @#%$% but should also save you hundreds of $$$ for something that does happen.

[nmcmilla]

Hi Clarkwood,
I've emailed you for your n code "help" info. I am not as handy as you describe but will definitely give it another look. Thanks, Nancy

[RVjon]

OK all, you have to pull the fridge out about a foot (about half way out).
First order a replacement ac heater element (mine was 630804 for norcold 512.3).
Remove 10 screws, 2 in back of fridge at base. four large screws in bottom and top front (there are two access holes at bottom of control pane, and four smaller screws on the sides (two are part of door hinges). I'm not certain these last four hold the fridge in.
Unplug ac, pull two main dc power wires (yellow and white), and last disconnect the propane line. Now you can pull the fridge out to get to the control board cover and the boiler area. Two screws top left and bottom right hold the cover on. work the cover free (not easy) and then pull the two gray wires leading to the heater element. open the flimsy tin chimney and remove the heater element. reverse the process to finish.
Once removed you can check for 60 ohms on ac heater element, if good the control board is the problem.
Doing this myself probably kept me from having my rv held hostage by some
inefficient shop for 5 to 6 weeks. Glad I did it.

[roadrunner255]

Hello all,

Anyone run into an issue with a broken plug cover on a Southwire Surge Guard?

Southwire is telling me they don't sell the part separately.

See attached;

[Pete'sMH]

Can’t help you. But what is the purpose of the cover in the first place? Isn’t your power cord plugged into it?

[roadrunner255]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Can’t help you. But what is the purpose of the cover in the first place? Isn’t your power cord plugged into it?

Assume its a dust cover when not connected.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by roadrunner255

Assume its a dust cover when not connected.

I suppose so, but other plugs don’t have them and get along fine. I think that if mine broke I’d just remove it and be glad to be rid of it.

[dadepfan]

Hello All

I have a 2016 Gemini 23TR which has two panels of 4 USB connections each - one next to the couch and one on the slide-out bed in the back.

All 4 connections on both panels are dead, and the front panel was already replaced once when the 4 connections went dead before.

I do not think all the connections on these panels went out at once, and I have no idea why this keeps happening.

Does anyone know if there is a fuse or circuit breaker involved with these panels? Anyone have this problem or have an idea about what the heck the problem is?

Thanks,

Dave

[butchspiller@yahoo.com]

"Cigarette lighter" outlet on the dash of 2022 compass is out of order. Anyone know where the fuse may be?

[clarkwood]

My have been out for years. If you figure this out let me know. I plug devices in the AC outlet below when on shore power. Good Luck with This.