More charging issues

[RonRM]

Good point.

What actually happens, does the ATS just drop out after engaging or does it just not engage at all?

[fourthgear]

In my case, it did both ,I would go check the RV & even though the Inverters indicator lights showed it had SP & was actually switched over ,there was no 120VAC any where in the Coach & yes no charging of the LI batteries .

[RonRM]

Just thought of something else you can check...

Check to see if the Balmar shunt is wired backwards. One pole should be clearly marked -BATT - that should go to the leads coming from -B. The other side goes to the load.

They kinda work when backwards, but completely wrong readings...ask me how I know...

Ron

[JourneyingTurtle]

So I reached out to Thor and they suggested I bring the van to them. I've just left their service center and am nothing but happy with the service I received.

They found multiple loose connections and a ground wire that wasn't installed properly by LeMesa (Albuquerque). They also replaced the recalled timer module.

Now I just need to use the van for a few days to be sure the issues are resolved.

We all know Thor has quality control issues but the level of service I've received from their customer service, tech support and now at the service center itself has been top notch.

Thanks to everyone here for your assistance in troubleshooting. Even though I wasn't able to diagnose and fix the problem myself, I learned a lot from this thread.

[RonRM]

Nice...good to hear it got straightened out.

[VanMorrison]

I’m having trouble charging off the alternator. I feel it should be pretty straight fwd, vehicle is running, battery should charge. Do I have to adjust settings to charge off the alternator?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by VanMorrison

I’m having trouble charging off the alternator. I feel it should be pretty straight fwd, vehicle is running, battery should charge. Do I have to adjust settings to charge off the alternator?

Year/Make/Model of RV will get you better targeted answers - otherwise all you get are WAGs. No working crystal balls here.

[VanMorrison]

Originally Posted by VanMorrison

I’m having trouble charging off the alternator. I feel it should be pretty straight fwd, vehicle is running, battery should charge. Do I have to adjust settings to charge off the alternator?

2022 Thor sequence. Combi12v.

[fourthgear]

Are we talking about the second Alternator/ UHG or the Chassis charging system ?

[VanMorrison]

Originally Posted by fourthgear

Are we talking about the second Alternator/ UHG or the Chassis charging system ?

The second alternator. My SOC keeps going down while I’m on the road. Nothing is running that I know of. My only way to get it to go up is solar. I haven’t had the option to plug it in yet.

[fourthgear]

I would make sure the wiring is connected to the UHG & is correct first off . There has been a few issues with these UHG from TMC , Belts , VR , unwired , wired incorrectly or a bad connection . Your Solar panel will not be enough to charge the LI battery system if using appliances , you will need to plug into SP if it gets too low .

[VanMorrison]

I am trying to figure it all out. I’m actually on the road in it for awhile in Yellowstone. Coverage is pretty spotty, so rarely any service. I think I am going to call mastervolt then Balmar and see if they can walk me through anything. Thanks for that. I’ll let you know what they say. My electrician experience includes changing lightbulbs and a plug outlet once.

Originally Posted by RonRM

It's a puzzle for sure...

If you can't find a decent RV dealer that understands this stuff, maybe a marine dealer that knows the Balmar stuff inside and out.

Other option, call Balmar and or Mastervolt, if you get the right people they will trouble shoot with you.

I'm with you, I'm thinking Balmar...evidence - UHG blew up, display doesn't make sense. There are only 3 other components, other than the UHG...display, shunt, regulator. Did you compare the params I posted. Those are the factory config for a 200ah battery setup.

Problem's like this are hard to figure out, swapping parts would help.

Without parts, a couple of other things you could try, swap the plugs on the shunt - long shot, look for anything loose - pull on any of the butt splices. Pull/Replace the fuse to the shunt (I think its either 5 or 2 amp..dont remember), it comes off the back of the master 12v disconnect switch. Check the plug on the display, I'd reseat the plug.

Good luck

Ron