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Old 02-10-2024, 12:10 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2023 Tellaro
State: Connecticut
Posts: 22
THOR #20423
Tellaro “parasitic” battery draw lowered

I think most motorhomes have some battery draw with everything turned off, and then still some even with the rotary “disconnect” switch off. I never got my Quantum Class C to draw less than .8 amps, and since I had only a 100ah AGM battery, that was unacceptable. So, I installed a knife switch before everything, including the shunt (had just a cheap columb counter so depowering it frequently didn’t matter as it didn’t “learn”) and made sure nothing went direct to battery. Problem solved.

Not as easy with the Tellaro .

With everything obvious (ie having a switch) turned off but the coach in “use” mode - that is, the rotary switch on - I had about a 1.6 amp draw. With the 200ah lithium system, after a week you’re just about dead.

With the rotary switch OFF, there was still about a 1 amp draw so I then did the following:

1. Turned off the inverter/charger at the unit itself, so the remote panel over the side door goes dark. That rocker switch is located on the aft end of the mastervolt unit, accessed thru the panel under the driver side bunk. A little tough to get to, and I may install a remote switch, as others have.
1. Turned off the Truma controller by pushing the button and holding it until the display goes out.
2. I found a switch to turn off the solar controller in the BMPro app under settings, solar control settings, operating status (on/off).
3. I cut and sealed off the power wire inside the Winegard unit on the roof, as there is no switch anywhere that I could find.

Each of these steps provided a small improvement, and at this point, the Balmar app finally reads “0.0” amp draw. The sg200 gauge, BT gateway, and shunt (I assume) are now the only things always powered, and it seems that draw is less than .1 amp, as nothing registers on the gauge.

Now it goes for days with no change in the SOC reading. A loss of a percent or two per week is fine. I installed a 30 amp RV and a 15 amp std receptacle outside the garage, where I store the van under a canopy. I keep it plugged into the 30 amp all the time, and if I want to charge I can flip the breaker from inside the house. It’s close enough so the Bluetooth gateway allows me to monitor from just inside the house, as well.

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Old 02-10-2024, 01:03 PM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 35m
State: North Carolina
Posts: 840
THOR #13505
Good job!

Got my beast down to about 10 watts. Gotta run the firefly
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Old 02-10-2024, 02:21 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Connecticut
Posts: 1,733
THOR #20289
My 2021 Axis draws about 0.7 amps with the battery switch on and about 0.1 amps with it off. The 100 watt panel wired to the GoPower controller and then directly (through a fuse) to the battery keeps up nicely with that small 0.1 amp load.

David
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Old 02-10-2024, 03:00 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2022 Tellaro 20L
State: Vermont
Posts: 391
THOR #30506
Tellaro power management

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpzlaw View Post
I think most motorhomes have some battery draw with everything turned off, and then still some even with the rotary “disconnect” switch off. I never got my Quantum Class C to draw less than .8 amps, and since I had only a 100ah AGM battery, that was unacceptable. So, I installed a knife switch before everything, including the shunt (had just a cheap columb counter so depowering it frequently didn’t matter as it didn’t “learn”) and made sure nothing went direct to battery. Problem solved.

Not as easy with the Tellaro .

With everything obvious (ie having a switch) turned off but the coach in “use” mode - that is, the rotary switch on - I had about a 1.6 amp draw. With the 200ah lithium system, after a week you’re just about dead.

With the rotary switch OFF, there was still about a 1 amp draw so I then did the following:

1. Turned off the inverter/charger at the unit itself, so the remote panel over the side door goes dark. That rocker switch is located on the aft end of the mastervolt unit, accessed thru the panel under the driver side bunk. A little tough to get to, and I may install a remote switch, as others have.
1. Turned off the Truma controller by pushing the button and holding it until the display goes out.
2. I found a switch to turn off the solar controller in the BMPro app under settings, solar control settings, operating status (on/off).
3. I cut and sealed off the power wire inside the Winegard unit on the roof, as there is no switch anywhere that I could find.

Each of these steps provided a small improvement, and at this point, the Balmar app finally reads “0.0” amp draw. The sg200 gauge, BT gateway, and shunt (I assume) are now the only things always powered, and it seems that draw is less than .1 amp, as nothing registers on the gauge.

Now it goes for days with no change in the SOC reading. A loss of a percent or two per week is fine. I installed a 30 amp RV and a 15 amp std receptacle outside the garage, where I store the van under a canopy. I keep it plugged into the 30 amp all the time, and if I want to charge I can flip the breaker from inside the house. It’s close enough so the Bluetooth gateway allows me to monitor from just inside the house, as well.
In my Tellaro, I added a remote switch for the Combimaster I/C, a battery disconnect for the main battery bank, off the shunt, and then two breakers for the PV system, so I can completely shut the whole system down. The inverter can drain the battery if not turned off, and is not intuitive thru the Mastervolt panel. The remote switch allows me to have 'charge only' function on the I/C. There is no "off" switch on the Combimaster- you would have to add a disconnect the B- cable before the inverter for that.

If I need my fridge on 12V, I can leave the rig alone and let the solar panels charge the batteries w/ master switch on. I've never had the coach batteries die yet.

I also have two solar panels and an MPPT controller now- so less chance of those batteries draining. MPPT gives me about 97% vs. PWM at 70% from the panels now. I get solar gain on cloudy days as well.

I moved my batteries up inside my 20L as well, allowing me complete control for winter storage- I can now remove them easily and take inside for the 5-6 month storage period, and charge/discharge as required every 3 months.

The chassis battery is the one to watch- it dies in 5-10 days on it's own. The 2022 20L has no bidirectional charging like my 2021 AT did, so I have to add a trickle charger on the jumper posts under the bonnet, for the chassis battery, for winter storage.

When in use, I added a 2A trickle charger inside, connected to the hot side of the Trombetta e/s solenoid, and switched from the 'hallway'. I removed the outlet and added a dedicated one inside the electrical compartment. I can turn that on when plugged into shoreline as well, when the batteries are back inside. Otherwise I use an external one for winter so the Combi is not involved, and don't have to plug into shoreline.

The truma doesn't draw enough watts when not in use, imho. Only time it does is if the control is lit up, or is actively heating.

The other item can be the outside propane switch- minor draw there with a light and active solenoid underneath. So be sure that is off as well. I'll be moving that inside as well- just like Winnebago does in the Travato.

Finally, note (sideways pic) new hinged control panel and now I can get both hands on that tank drain!
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Mark & Cyndy
2022 Thor Tellaro 20L, 600Ah LFP/ Balmar UHG, 380W solar.
Former: 2001 Rialta QD, (full refit), 2021 Tellaro 20AT ( 3mos)
Daily driver: 2021 VW ID4
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Old 02-10-2024, 04:23 PM   #5
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Connecticut
Posts: 1,733
THOR #20289
Mark:

Your chassis battery dies within 5 to 10 days? Is that due to something Thor did when converting the Ram chassis to their RV? I can’t imagine the delivery van doing that.

I am so glad that my 2021 Axis has the Precision Circuits BIM. It automatically lets the coach batteries charge the chassis once the coach voltage gets up to about 13.5 volts. With a 100 watt panel keeping the coach batteries charged up, both systems stay charged.

I see you are in Vermont. I am in Connecticut. For winter storage I temporarily hookup a 50 watt panel mounted on the rear bumper vertically facing south. The vertical position keeps the snow off whereas the rooftop panel can stay snow covered for as much as a month- not this year so far though.

David
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Old 02-10-2024, 05:19 PM   #6
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2022 Tellaro 20L
State: Vermont
Posts: 391
THOR #30506
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
Mark:

Your chassis battery dies within 5 to 10 days? Is that due to something Thor did when converting the Ram chassis to their RV? I can’t imagine the delivery van doing that.

I am so glad that my 2021 Axis has the Precision Circuits BIM. It automatically lets the coach batteries charge the chassis once the coach voltage gets up to about 13.5 volts. With a 100 watt panel keeping the coach batteries charged up, both systems stay charged.

I see you are in Vermont. I am in Connecticut. For winter storage I temporarily hookup a 50 watt panel mounted on the rear bumper vertically facing south. The vertical position keeps the snow off whereas the rooftop panel can stay snow covered for as much as a month- not this year so far though.

David
Yes it does- and many others that have the LFP batteries- Thor had a BIM in the AGM system in my 20AT, but not in the LFP coach systems. So the chassis would just drain out from parasitic drain up front, even when plugged into shoreline. My 20AT did not have this problem, b/c it had the BIM and bidirectional charging.

That's why I added the Noco 2A charger inside tied to the chassis battery for the 20L. Was surprised the chassis battery was almost at 10% SOC one day- then figured what TMC failed to do... so I fixed it. Problem solved.
70+ mods done to this thing, and still has no insulation. (I don't call the spaghetti test method of insulation a valid one)


Good old Thor and their lack of attention to detail... it's not what they did, it's what they didn't do.
I do have a TT30 outlet in my solar canopy for shoreline, but w/o a BIM, no charge to the chassis. When the sun is out- free electrons!


But when the batteries are removed, I just use an external charger to avoid confusion of the I/C inside.


My family originated from CT- Cornwall area in late 40's- dad came to VT after WWII. His dad was a well known GP in the Housatonic valley, and started the VNA NW in Bantam. Just sent a PM to you.
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Mark & Cyndy
2022 Thor Tellaro 20L, 600Ah LFP/ Balmar UHG, 380W solar.
Former: 2001 Rialta QD, (full refit), 2021 Tellaro 20AT ( 3mos)
Daily driver: 2021 VW ID4
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Old 02-11-2024, 08:36 PM   #7
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Sequence 20L
State: Illinois
Posts: 128
THOR #28919
I held down the 2 outer buttons on the remote for inverter. Screen went black and could see the draw drop immediately. Same result I was getting when turning off the inverter with the switch on the inverter. but now I don’t have to get down on my hands and knees to turn it on or off.
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Old 02-12-2024, 02:41 PM   #8
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2022 Tellaro 20L
State: Vermont
Posts: 391
THOR #30506
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparks701 View Post
I held down the 2 outer buttons on the remote for inverter. Screen went black and could see the draw drop immediately. Same result I was getting when turning off the inverter with the switch on the inverter. but now I don’t have to get down on my hands and knees to turn it on or off.
You have to remove the headboard of the 20L to get to that switch- hence why I added the remote switch. The other floorplans you still have to dig for the Combimaster.
In the 20L, you can add a boat latch and metal tabs to access both headrest compartments as well as seen in photos. Switch is still easier to access, but with the QR hatches, you can troubleshoot easier.
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Mark & Cyndy
2022 Thor Tellaro 20L, 600Ah LFP/ Balmar UHG, 380W solar.
Former: 2001 Rialta QD, (full refit), 2021 Tellaro 20AT ( 3mos)
Daily driver: 2021 VW ID4
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