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Old 12-14-2022, 11:46 PM   #21
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THOR #27874
Yep, I live in WI, we are going to get your weather in a week.

My Bounder and Tellaro are sitting on their pad, both covered, winterized and plugged in to keep warm and charged up...never know, if it gets too much...I'm tearing the covers off and heading South.

ron

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Old 12-15-2022, 04:01 PM   #22
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All the best !!
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Old 01-01-2023, 07:32 PM   #23
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Model: Sequence 20L
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Post

Does the Balkan monitor display show two banks or just one?
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Old 01-01-2023, 08:49 PM   #24
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Only Bank1 if I remember correctly...
As the RV is stored for the winter without access, I cannot verify...
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Old 01-01-2023, 11:12 PM   #25
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There can be 32 devices on the CANBUS, combo of shunts, displays, BT Gateway and regulators. You can select any of the many devices on any display.

It's 1 bank per shunt, but you can have/display multiple banks if you have multiple shunts in the CANBUS network...only need 1 display.

Balmar shunts are around $150 (just the shunt - blew one up already), I just bought a 400amp shunt, display/BT capable on Amazon for $80...I plan on putting it in series with the Balmar shunt and ignoring the Balmar display.

I have the Balmar BT module that I use to monitor the UHG via BT/App. The app will show everything the display does and more (including ability to change parameters on the regulator).

The only reason for me to stick with Balmar is the shunt/regulator combo (necessity with the UHG).

The Amazon WonVon (guess where it's from), has way better interface (BT/App) and it does data logging.

I think the Balmar display is a demonstration of someone practicing firmware development, and they haven't quite figured out that they don't know what they are doing.

The display crashes/reboots often, SOH is a joke and 9/10 times it's completely frozen, menu items are duplicated/triplicated (battery chemistries - lists each item multiple times). I've updated the firmware...same stuff different day.

ron
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Old 01-02-2023, 01:23 PM   #26
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THOR #28761
Thanks for your in-depth research on what we are faced with. My NEW 2023 Sequence 20L is at General RV now and expect to have some feedback tomorrow.?????????? Don’t know what to think at this point , in addition my fully propane tank lasted three days?????????

Happy New Year
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Old 01-02-2023, 02:10 PM   #27
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Good luck...happy new year
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Old 01-02-2023, 06:39 PM   #28
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Thank you Ron for your investigations; the WonVon actually seems to correspond to a better use than the Balmar.
To each of you, the best in 2023 with your rv!!
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Old 05-01-2023, 09:08 PM   #29
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THOR #26625
Hi everyone.

Here is a follow-up for the investigations made by the lithium battery system specialist who diagnosed our Tellaro last week.

The BALMAR was programmed for a 100Amp system when it should have been programmed for 200Amp (the Tellaro has 2 lithium batteries of 100Amp) !

This makes all the difference in the calculation of the SOC !!

Before meeting the specialist, I had produced an Excel spreadsheet with the use of power consumption and now the SOC matches the estimates very well.

We just returned from a trip of a few days on the North Shore of Quebec and as expected according to my calculations, the SOC in the morning is now between 70% and 50% after a night in boondocking.

The most energy-consuming equipment at night is the fridge with an average of 5.4/5.5 AMP / hour.

To lower our electricity consumption, we now turn the inverter OFF for the night:

FROM THE MASTERVOLT DOCUMENTATION:
How to switch an inverter e.g. on or off?
When the SmartRemote is active, press any key to
reveal the sub menu. Press P1 to switch on or off.


The other equipment that we would also like to close at night is the Winegard, not only for its power consumption, but also to close its wifi signal. Our Tellaro does not have a power switch. Maybe one day we'll have one installed.

So here is the current situation, thank you again for your comments and suggestions, we wish you a wonderful and long season in VR !!
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Old 05-02-2023, 11:27 AM   #30
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Model: Sequence 20L
State: Virginia
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THOR #28761
Balmar

Speaking of Bahmar. Mine was dead last week, black, no data.
Spent an HOUR on phone with Thor tech support. Kept telling me to look for a box close to the inverter. After removing board under bed on driver side all I found was the inverter and the transfer switch. Asked about the other side, answer NO…….Advised to take RV back to dealer.
Took it back to General RV, 100 miles round trip.
In Five minutes the shunt was on the passenger side behind the distribution panel.Tookwireoff,waited-seconds,reconnected…Working…
When i got back home I called Thor,, I expressed my feelings.
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Old 10-02-2023, 06:25 PM   #31
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I have a Thor Tellaro 20LT and the lithium battery system has never worked correctly. They've already replaced the Balmar system but that didn't help much. I had the RV plugged in for a couple of days to fully charge it but it couldn't even run my CPAP machine through the night in addition to only the refrigerator. The alternator is supposed to charge the battery but I gain no power after hundreds of miles of driving. I've had several other smaller issues as well. I have the RV in to get fixed but I'm awaiting warrantee authorizations for over 2 weeks. It has been in getting fixed for more days than I've used it on the road. Thor's customer service sucks and the build quality of these vehicles is garbage. I'd highly advise looking for a different RV if you are on the market.
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Old 10-02-2023, 07:44 PM   #32
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Model: 2022 Tellaro 20L
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Originally Posted by cad157 View Post
jannadem, 16ACE27, howzball and ron, thank you again for all this relevant information and verifications that we will do next spring when the RV comes out of its winterization!

And yes, too bad that the fridge can't also run on propane... propane, for the Thor Tellaro 2022, is only used for the stove, hot water, heating and it works very well!!
Bonjour Cad157,

If you PM me, I can help you understand the 200A lithium system better- I have a Tellaro 20L, and moved my batteries inside, and upgraded them to 600A so I do not have to worry about much of anything for as long as a week.

I can tell you 12V fridge is way better than propane, which are very fickle.

You should be able to run the fridge for 2 days alone- something else is on and draining your battery.

You can also come see me if you need, about 90 min from Montreal.

Best, Mark
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Old 10-02-2023, 10:17 PM   #33
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Thumbs up

Thanks Mark for your answer, so far we learned to manage within the parameters of our system. I keep your quote if one day we decide to upgrade our 200A lithium system.
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Old 10-02-2023, 10:24 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cad157 View Post
Thanks Mark for your answer, so far we learned to manage within the parameters of our system. I keep your quote if one day we decide to upgrade our 200A lithium system.
It is a learning curve for sure. I converted another RV before this one, and Thor has a long road ahead for QC. I do like the floor plan of the 20L, in spite of all the issues, but I am handy and can fix all the problems.

Hang in there- it will be great once you learn how to manage it all.
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Old 10-02-2023, 10:42 PM   #35
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Old 10-03-2023, 01:48 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by cad157 View Post
Add up your watts- find your fridge specs- typical is 6A startup and 1-2A running.

So if you have 2A, that is 12V x 2A= 240W per hour. 24 hrs= 576Wh (Watt-hours)
You have 200Ah available, or 2400Wh (12x200), and so you can use up 21% of your battery bank in one day, w/o solar replenishement, or show 79% SOC after 24 hrs.
Also add any watts you are using, and figure out how long you can sustain on 2400Wh.

I think something else is on... Hope that helps!!
If your Tellaro was wired like mine, you might want to have someone decompress it... mine was a rat's nest!! Not any more.
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Old 10-03-2023, 04:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyMag View Post
I have a Thor Tellaro 20LT and the lithium battery system has never worked correctly. They've already replaced the Balmar system but that didn't help much. I had the RV plugged in for a couple of days to fully charge it but it couldn't even run my CPAP machine through the night in addition to only the refrigerator. The alternator is supposed to charge the battery but I gain no power after hundreds of miles of driving. I've had several other smaller issues as well. I have the RV in to get fixed but I'm awaiting warrantee authorizations for over 2 weeks. It has been in getting fixed for more days than I've used it on the road. Thor's customer service sucks and the build quality of these vehicles is garbage. I'd highly advise looking for a different RV if you are on the market.
We also have the 200a/h system but have an Onan generator instead of the UHG (under hood generator) for charging and have been happy with the setup. You should not be having these kinds of problems with power. The DC refrigerator is great and in "good" solar conditions should be able to run it for days given your 190 watt solar setup.

My problem is that my batteries stay charged at 100% which is not always a good thing with lithium. I do not leave my refrigerator on 24/7 however. I use the excess power along with the inverter to also power a trickle charger for the chassis batteries that will go down if the vehicle is not driven for a week or so.

You will notice with the Mastervolt Combi system you will conserve quite a bit of power by turning the inverter off using the switch located on the inverter instead of using the remote panel. It makes at least a 1.5 a/h difference. Strongly recommend setting up the remote switch for this which is a simple 30 minute modification.

The Balmar battery % shown on the display has proven to be unreliable and that system really does have some problems. We have found when we run the generator with the air conditioner the Balmar readings are not correct on many occasions. One work around that works if you have the bluetooth dongle for the Balmar (which I highly recommend) is to change the battery size on the app to reset the system. Then change it back to the correct setting (200a/h) and the system corrects itself. It is a shame that you have to learn these kind of "workarounds" but thanks to Thor's poor quality that is the case unless you want to replace the entire system.

Hope you get your setup repaired because something is not right if you can not get decent charging with running the engine. Just make sure your SOC (state of charge %) readings are correct as we have found this to not always be the case.
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Old 10-04-2023, 01:20 AM   #38
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Since the reprogramming of the Balmar this spring (post no. 29), a new Bmpro console in August (no longer working), a new fridge in September (compressor blown) and a new Balmar alternator yesterday (stopped working), it seems that everything works correctly with better electrical autonomy. We are currently on the road and everything seems OK.
Thank you Mark and Campguy21 for your insightful observations and recommendations!
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Old 10-05-2023, 07:17 PM   #39
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Model: 2022 Tellaro 20L
State: Vermont
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THOR #30506
Quote:
Originally Posted by cad157 View Post
Since the reprogramming of the Balmar this spring (post no. 29), a new Bmpro console in August (no longer working), a new fridge in September (compressor blown) and a new Balmar alternator yesterday (stopped working), it seems that everything works correctly with better electrical autonomy. We are currently on the road and everything seems OK.
Thank you Mark and Campguy21 for your insightful observations and recommendations!
Campguy21 said it well with long idle periods-
Lithium batteries should be stored at 50-60% for long periods- shut off solar (disconnect at controller) and disconnect B- from battery to Buss bar for 1-3 month periods.

For winter storage, 3-6 months many say to store at 50-60%, then every 3 months charge to 100%, then discharge to 50-60% and repeat every 3 months.

Same goes for the BMPro tablet- remove and take indoors for long storage.
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2022 Thor Tellaro 20L, 600Ah LFP/ Balmar UHG, 380W solar.
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Old 10-05-2023, 09:06 PM   #40
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