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Old 12-24-2021, 01:22 PM   #141
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Alabama
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THOR #22773
Wow, It seems like I have missed a lot of conversations on this thread.

First @ newThorbuyer ... Great detailed PDI, and congrats on having the courage to walk away! I had to walk away 3 times before finding my current Sanctuary. In the end you are correct that you are really buying a "starter kit" and that you can expect to repair and modify to make it yours ... but you need to have a solid starting place (plumping, electrical, etc). Thankfully, it is on a Mercedes platform which is incredible solid.
BTW, My pump will very slightly dim the lights, but nothing major or even noticeable unless you are looking for it. My drivers side scissor cushion does hit the cabinet, my awning needs help to retract (weak motors are very common, and still waiting for the replacement), and I bought the non-lithium version (same as Jay) as I do not think the industry has the bugs worked out yet.
BTW2: BE SURE TO test drive over 65 MPH as another common issues is vibration due to poor balance and bad tires/rims.
BTW3: It is very common for these dealership to try to limit the inspection time ... do not allow this ... let them know in advanced that you will not be rushed through the PDI.

Second @ Jay ... I am also thinking about the Van compass suspension but I am not sure I need it yet, however Utah back-country is again in my future ... and thanks for the video!

@Everyone. Like Jay, I really like my van now, but if you have been following my channel on YouTube (Ryker Mom) you have seen my many issues and many modifications. I agree that it is sometimes hard to stomach spending $115-120K on a new RV and thinking of it as a "starter kit" ... but that is how I approached this purchase. I also knew that I would be doing a lot of repairs myself as the dealership is just too busy and backup for me.

Make sure you subscribe to my channel as I will have an upcoming short 3-4day trip and I will be showing my starting equipment and documenting my experience with all my modifications.

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Old 12-24-2021, 04:19 PM   #142
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Thank you Jay
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Old 12-27-2021, 10:57 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliRVR View Post
Just upgraded suspension to the Van Compass 4.3 and BF KO2 265/70 R17 tires on Tranquility 19L and what a difference. If you really want to improve the ride both on highway and off highway I would definitely recommend this upgrade (at least the suspension). It's like night and day and worth every penny. It allows to to fine tune the suspension to any road condition with the turn of the dial.

I will also comment on the various posts regarding problems people have had with the workmanship. Yes, we've found a few issues not nearly as many as some have posted. People have to remember that compared to customs which I looked at extensively, you are getting so much more. Yes, the quality would better but at a price tag of at least $60K-$80K more. Just need to keep things in perspective.
Did you pick up the medium duty or heavy duty springs/shocks?
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Old 01-23-2022, 12:25 AM   #144
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Hi,

New to the van life and forum. We just purchased a 2022 Sanctuary 19P.

I would like to add a spare tire and wheel. Mine has the optional BFG KO2 tire/wheel package along with the lift. I have looked everywhere and can't seem to find the brand on the wheels. They are 16"

Here's a picture. If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.

I spoke to the dealer and they didn't know but are going to contact their Thor Rep.

I spoke to Thor but there answer wasn't very definitive. The lady on the phone thinks they are Mercedes wheels, but I would think they would have the MB center cap if they were.

In the meantime I've ordered a BFG KO2 in LT245/75R16, only $187 with discounts and free shipping from Discount Tire Direct. I also ordered an OEM style steel wheel from Carid on eBay for only $73 with free shipping. I should have them by the end of next week.

Now I just need to decide how I want to carry the spare on the vehicle.

Thanks!


LC
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Old 01-23-2022, 01:34 AM   #145
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I was about to ask the very same question. I'm looking at the Owl Van tire carrier. If you find out the wheel name let us know
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Old 01-23-2022, 02:29 AM   #146
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Originally Posted by htsai14752 View Post
Did you pick up the medium duty or heavy duty springs/shocks?
Sorry I didnít see your post. Itís the 4.3 from Van Compass. I didnít have an option. They make the basic adjustment based on weight during installation. After that you make adjustments to shocks based on stiffness you desire
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Old 01-23-2022, 01:19 PM   #147
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Originally Posted by TK_MT View Post
I was about to ask the very same question. I'm looking at the Owl Van tire carrier. If you find out the wheel name let us know
Will do.


Has anyone used the bike rack to mount a spare? It is rated to carry 2 bikes each weighing up to 44 pounds. My wheel and tire combination should be no more than 80 pounds and wouldn't be wobbling around like bikes tend to do.


Plus I'd be getting rid of the crossbar that gave me another concussion last night
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Old 01-23-2022, 01:32 PM   #148
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Ride & Tire Pressures

One of the first things I noticed on the 400 mile return trip home from the dealer was the rough ride over the slightest road defect. It was particularly noticeable in the rear, not just rough but noisy as well. The van was running dry as it is much too cold to have water in the tanks. We had a small amount of carry on items so our weight with the two of us and 50lbs of dogs was probably under 600 pounds.


After I got home I checked the tire pressures. The fronts were at 50 each and one of the rears at just over 70 and the other just under 80. I dropped the rears to 60 pounds. It now rides much better and quieter.



The tires are rated for a max pressure of 80 pounds. What is the recommended pressure for this van?


I'm also curious as to what pressures people are running at various laden weights as tire pressures greatly affect ride, handling, load carrying capacity and wear.
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Old 01-23-2022, 02:09 PM   #149
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Noise / Drafty & Cold

Besides the rough/noisy ride resolved by lowering tire pressures, one of our general complaints is the rattling inside the coach. The cabinetry is solidly attached unlike what some others have reported. We haven't been able to isolate the sources of all the noise.


We did find that the burner grills have to be removed while moving. I also stretched a bungee across the stovetop as that continued to rattle a bit even though it is more than screwed down enough.


The cab heater is inadequate for heating the entire space in cold weather while traveling. Our ride home was all in 20 degree weather. We had to drape one of our dog blankets across the back of the front seats from side to side to reduce the constant cold draft running from the back of the van to the front. There really should be a rear auxilliary heater that runs off the engine. I can't imagine how cold it would be for rear seat passengers without running the Truma. Does anyone have any ideas? I've considered running a small electric heater back there while underway.



I suspect that the sliding door doesn't seal completely and that the insulation isn't very good. I willl know better about this in the coming days as I open some panels to look for rattle sources and to see what is behind them. I also have a thermal heat detector that I'll be using to take readings. Unfortunately the very cold weather we are having isn't conducive to doing much outside with the van so it may be awhile before I get to investigating everything. Right now my focus is getting the van equipped and ready for the road.
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Old 01-23-2022, 02:46 PM   #150
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Electrical

On the morning after taking delivery before leaving NJ for home the van wouldn't start. It made a single click and then nothing. I repeated that 4 times and assumed we had a dead battery. I made sure I had depressed the brake pedal first before holding in the start button. Each time a couple seconds would go by and then it would make one click. I checked the monitor panel and it indicated the batteries were full. I closed all the doors and got back in the cab. I tried it one more time and it started. It has been fine since.

The other day I was out on a trip shopping for supplies. There was an intermittent loud beep that began right after I left. There was nothing on the dash to indicate an issue. After my second or 3rd stop I decided to investigate. The beep was coming from the Solar Charge Controller panel. It was indicating 4.8 volts and it wasn't charging. The battery switch was on. When I turned the battery switch off the voltage reading jumped up to 12. The following day I checked it and it showed that the panel was charging and that the battery was full with the battery switch on.

As I have said, it has been cold. We've been below 0 most nights and as low as -11F. I've read that Lithium batteries won't take a charge if they are too cold, but do they also lose voltage? Could this be my issue?
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Old 01-23-2022, 03:04 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCCRUISER View Post
Now I just need to decide how I want to carry the spare on the vehicle.
We have the Owl Vans tire carrier and are quite happy with it, and it was fairly easy to install. I just got the basic tire carrier, not the one with the ladder since there's not much usable storage on the roof and I carry the portable telescoping ladder that came with the van, which is also useful to have for other things like tying ropes to trees etc. I have a MaxTrax carrier strapped to the spare tire so I can carry 4 MaxTrax where they're easy to access. MaxTrax are pricey but they have saved us more than once.

We have OEM steel wheels so I replaced the cone-seat lug bolts that came with the carrier with ball-seat lugs appropriate for the steel wheels - that way they're all the same and I can use them as spares if needed. It looks like you have aluminum wheels that use cone-seat lug bolts, but if you ordered a steel spare wheel that should only be used with the ball-seat lug bolts so be aware of that. Also the bolt length may be different. It wouldn't matter on the spare carrier but would not be advisable to drive it using the wrong lug bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LCCRUISER View Post
After I got home I checked the tire pressures. The fronts were at 50 each and one of the rears at just over 70 and the other just under 80. I dropped the rears to 60 pounds. It now rides much better and quieter. The tires are rated for a max pressure of 80 pounds. What is the recommended pressure for this van?
There is a sticker inside the driver's door that gives recommended tire pressures. I run the recommended pressure of 46/70 on the highway, and drop to about 70% of that (32/50) for comfort on rough trails but I don't go very far or fast on pavement when aired down. I would air down to 50% if I needed significantly more traction and flotation (loose sand or snow), and to 25% to get unstuck if other options failed but then I'd air back up as soon as practical. I carry a portable Viair compressor in the back, and I wired up a 12V circuit for it so I can run it off the house battery but I generally also keep the motor running when I air up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LCCRUISER View Post
Besides the rough/noisy ride resolved by lowering tire pressures, one of our general complaints is the rattling inside the coach.
Check the board that holds the pump and filter under the fridge, as that was causing a lot of noise in ours before I secured it. I think much of the remaining noise we hear is from the main kitchen unit not being screwed down well enough to the floor, as it seems to squeak if I push on it and we hear a lot of squeaking on rough roads. Or maybe it's the wood floor not adequately attached to the metal below. I haven't figured out a solution for that yet. At some point there are diminishing returns because there's still going to be noise from all the stuff we carry with us.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LCCRUISER View Post
I suspect that the sliding door doesn't seal completely
It could be the opposite problem. Ours seals so well that it won't close completely (without excessive force) unless we open the front door a little while sliding it shut. The front door puffs outward as the slider shuts. I think the main issue with heating is that you have a large surface area without much insulation, and the cab heater just doesn't produce sufficient power to keep it all warm.
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Old 01-23-2022, 03:24 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay McClellan View Post
We have OEM steel wheels so I replaced the cone-seat lug bolts that came with the carrier with ball-seat lugs appropriate for the steel wheels - that way they're all the same and I can use them as spares if needed. It looks like you have aluminum wheels that use cone-seat lug bolts, but if you ordered a steel spare wheel that should only be used with the ball-seat lug bolts so be aware of that. Also the bolt length may be different. It wouldn't matter on the spare carrier but would not be advisable to drive it using the wrong lug bolts.
P.S. I also carry a large torque wrench with the right socket for my lugs (BTW socket size may also differ between cone/ball seat), so that I can check and retorque the lug bolts when I'm driving in rough conditions. Mercedes specifies 177 ft-lbs for steel wheels like mine and 133 ft-lbs for aluminum, and I hear they sometimes loosen up especially right after wheels are removed/replaced. I have never had a wheel come off while driving but I hear it sucks. A lot.
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Old 01-23-2022, 11:06 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay McClellan View Post
P.S. I also carry a large torque wrench with the right socket for my lugs (BTW socket size may also differ between cone/ball seat), so that I can check and retorque the lug bolts when I'm driving in rough conditions. Mercedes specifies 177 ft-lbs for steel wheels like mine and 133 ft-lbs for aluminum, and I hear they sometimes loosen up especially right after wheels are removed/replaced. I have never had a wheel come off while driving but I hear it sucks. A lot.

Good ideas!
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Old 01-23-2022, 11:32 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay McClellan View Post
We have the Owl Vans tire carrier and are quite happy with it, and it was fairly easy to install. I just got the basic tire carrier, not the one with the ladder since there's not much usable storage on the roof and I carry the portable telescoping ladder that came with the van, which is also useful to have for other things like tying ropes to trees etc. I have a MaxTrax carrier strapped to the spare tire so I can carry 4 MaxTrax where they're easy to access. MaxTrax are pricey but they have saved us more than once.

We have OEM steel wheels so I replaced the cone-seat lug bolts that came with the carrier with ball-seat lugs appropriate for the steel wheels - that way they're all the same and I can use them as spares if needed. It looks like you have aluminum wheels that use cone-seat lug bolts, but if you ordered a steel spare wheel that should only be used with the ball-seat lug bolts so be aware of that. Also the bolt length may be different. It wouldn't matter on the spare carrier but would not be advisable to drive it using the wrong lug bolts.


There is a sticker inside the driver's door that gives recommended tire pressures. I run the recommended pressure of 46/70 on the highway, and drop to about 70% of that (32/50) for comfort on rough trails but I don't go very far or fast on pavement when aired down. I would air down to 50% if I needed significantly more traction and flotation (loose sand or snow), and to 25% to get unstuck if other options failed but then I'd air back up as soon as practical. I carry a portable Viair compressor in the back, and I wired up a 12V circuit for it so I can run it off the house battery but I generally also keep the motor running when I air up.


Check the board that holds the pump and filter under the fridge, as that was causing a lot of noise in ours before I secured it. I think much of the remaining noise we hear is from the main kitchen unit not being screwed down well enough to the floor, as it seems to squeak if I push on it and we hear a lot of squeaking on rough roads. Or maybe it's the wood floor not adequately attached to the metal below. I haven't figured out a solution for that yet. At some point there are diminishing returns because there's still going to be noise from all the stuff we carry with us.


It could be the opposite problem. Ours seals so well that it won't close completely (without excessive force) unless we open the front door a little while sliding it shut. The front door puffs outward as the slider shuts. I think the main issue with heating is that you have a large surface area without much insulation, and the cab heater just doesn't produce sufficient power to keep it all warm.



*I didn't want to spend more than $500 for a tire carrier, never mind $1300, since the Surco for the older models is under $200. Maybe they will bring out a new one for the V30. I'll find a temporary solution and fab one up when I have time if I decide to keep the van.


*Good tip on the bolts for the steel wheels, I will order a set. I'll carry a torque wrench in my tool kit.

*I looked at the door sticker and didn't see the pressures but found them with a second look.



*I have a Viair in my FJ Cruiser that I will bring on trips plus a tire repair kit and some sealant. My experience has been that I can go down to about 10 on the FJ without rolling a bead but usually run 12-15 offroad. Clearly this much heavier vehicle will need higher pressures. Your advice on the what you air down to is well taken.


*I will follow your suggestions for tracing the noise. It is definitely quieter at the lower tire pressures in the rear tires, even my wife noticed that today. The slider is very hard to close, I can see why people like the power slider.



THANKS AGAIN for your suggestions and input!



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Old 01-24-2022, 12:05 AM   #155
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Electrical gremlins & lp

Here we go again!


My house battery is now completely dead and now I find my nearly full LP tank is completely empty even though we haven't used the Truma.



On a short trip today the Solar Controller started beeping again and showed low voltage even though it indicated we were charging. I had to turn the battery switch off to stop the beeping, but I turned it back on while we visiting our son and grand kids.


While showing off the van to my son I also noticed I couldn't turn on the house lights or operate the power bed.



On the way home the Controller panel started flashing on and off and it finally shut off. Now my main monitor shows the battery to be completely dead and the LP tank empty. Not only that, the monitor is down to having less than 10% of a charge. Clearly there is something seriously wrong.


I thought the secondary alternator kept the house battery charged while the engine is running. Am I wrong there?



Departure day isn't that far away, so I'm extremely unhappy. The dealer wasn't very up to snuff on all the features and operation during the walk through (they didn't even know the engine displacement or that it had low range, heated seats and a few other minor features).


Since it didn't come with any manuals I can only rely on Internet searches to resolve issues or learn how to use the van and its features. Luckily, I'm not yet completely off grid but now not sure if I even trust it enough to do that. We sacrificed the comfort features of a B+ or small C to have more mobility but I don't think at this point I would go anywhere in this van that didn't have very reliable cell service and immediate access to AAA.

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Old 01-24-2022, 12:07 AM   #156
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Alternator Not Charging House Battery on Tranquility 19L

The alternator that charges my lithium house batteries stopped charging. Still charges off the Shore Power. Any ideas would be helpful
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Old 01-24-2022, 12:12 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by CaliRVR View Post
The alternator that charges my lithium house batteries stopped charging. Still charges off the Shore Power. Any ideas would be helpful



Timely post even though you weren't responding to mine. I feel your pain!
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Old 01-24-2022, 12:13 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by LCCRUISER View Post
Here we go again!


My house battery is now completely dead and now I find my nearly full LP tank is completely empty even though we haven't used the Truma.



On a short trip today the Solar Controller started beeping again and showed low voltage even though it indicated we were charging. I had to turn the battery switch off to stop the beeping, but I turned it back on while we visiting our son and grand kids.


While showing off the van to my son I also noticed I couldn't turn on the house lights or operate the power bed.



On the way home the Controller panel started flashing on and off and it finally shut off. Now my main monitor shows the battery to be completely dead and the LP tank empty. Not only that, the monitor is down to having less than 10% of a charge. Clearly there is something seriously wrong.


I thought the secondary alternator kept the house battery charged while the engine is running. Am I wrong there?



Departure day isn't that far away, so I'm extremely unhappy. The dealer wasn't very up to snuff on all the features and operation during the walk through (they didn't even know the engine displacement or that it had low range, heated seats and a few other minor features).


Since it didn't come with any manuals I can only rely on Internet searches to resolve issues or learn how to use the van and its features. Luckily, I'm not yet completely off grid but now not sure if I even trust it enough to do that. We sacrificed the comfort features of a B+ or small C to have more mobility but I don't think at this point I would go anywhere in this van that didn't have very reliable cell service and immediate access to AAA.

Have you tried calling the Thor tech support? I've used them once and they were actually very helpful.
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Old 01-24-2022, 12:27 AM   #159
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Originally Posted by TK_MT View Post
Have you tried calling the Thor tech support? I've used them once and they were actually very helpful.

I have not called them and this being Sunday night I doubt they are open. The customer service person I talked to a couple days ago on an equipment question didn't seem very knowledgeable so my confidence level of getting expert help is pretty low. At least I did get some help from them, however, unlike from the dealer. I'll will try them tomorrow since it is dark and well below freezing here if they want me to do a walk through.


Thanks for your input!
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:48 PM   #160
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Originally Posted by CaliRVR View Post
The alternator that charges my lithium house batteries stopped charging. Still charges off the Shore Power. Any ideas would be helpful

Your post turned on the lamp in my head during the middle of the night so I plugged in to shore power this morning. Mine is now also charging off the shore power. The control panel also recharged and is functional again. The LP reading on that is back up, so the zero reading of the LP tank was related to the low battery in that unit.


Thanks for the idea.
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