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06-15-2018, 04:07 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
State: Arkansas
Posts: 7
THOR #11950
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Would upgrading the AC be worth it?
Well. I am preparing for my next cross country trip. Last year, my only real issues was that it is harder than hell to keep Oliver (our 2014 Thor Siesta 24SA) cool.
I have a buddy that just built his own RV parking garage and insists that I order a new / different AC and we can pull it into his bay and replace mine. No issues with the work, just not sure what to get.
Has anyone upgraded their AC? I was thinking about a 15000 BTU Dometic Blizzard.
What happens right now?
Mine is a ducted system. I have three vents aft of the unit, one vent on the unit, and two vents forward of the unit.
If I close all of the vents and open only the two forward, I get minimal airflow, but some air flow. If I close all of forward plus the one on the unit, I get decent flow from the two above the bed. At night I can open the back two and the bed area is sleep-able. If I close all vent except the forward vents there is no way anyone could use the above cabin bunk. It probably stays hotter than outside.
However, during the day the RV will only stay about 10 degrees under outside temperature.
I have read that I should pull down all of the walls in the over head cabin and insulate. Apparently Thor does not believe in wasting money there for the comfort of the client.
Any thing else I should do? Would replacing the current AC help?
Any thoughts?
Chuck
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06-15-2018, 05:25 PM
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#2
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Axis/Vegas Enthusiast
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.4
State: Michigan
Posts: 9,837
THOR #1150
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06-15-2018, 05:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Georgia
Posts: 2,585
THOR #4735
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it's no guarantee that a higher amp unit will necessarily make any big enough difference when you really need it, but it WILL require a larger input, larger amperage Breaker, and possibly could impact/limit the other things you can do while the unit is running, whether you are on generator or shore power.
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the Turners...
two Campers, two Electric cars
former diesel pusher traveler
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06-15-2018, 06:00 PM
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#4
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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Since it would require the least amount of expense: I'm all for giving the insulation route, a try first!
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"What: me worry?"
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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06-15-2018, 06:01 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
State: Arkansas
Posts: 7
THOR #11950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieGeek
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Thanks.
I had done the research and had already read these.
I should have been clearer in asking if anyone that had the same unit experienced the same issue. My Thor dealer made the comment that the issue with the front vents was that it was an engineering flaw. Other posts talked about adding vents. And another about having to upgrade to a 50 amp system.
I was looking more specifically for a Siesta 24.
Chuck
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06-15-2018, 06:05 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Gemini 24TX (Formerly)
State: California
Posts: 1,459
THOR #5821
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Going from 13500 BTU to 15000 BTU will make only a marginal, if even noticeable difference. Your only talking 1500 BTU which in the AC world isn't much. I wound up putting a second and matching 13500 BTU AC/Heat Pump in front, which does make a difference.
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06-15-2018, 06:08 PM
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#7
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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You mentioned adding a vent to the body of the AC??
While you were up in there with the cover off: did you make sure that airflow was going where it is supposed to?
You might be able to improve airflow, with some effective sealing techniques...
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"What: me worry?"
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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06-15-2018, 07:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Travato
State: Florida
Posts: 2,475
THOR #1765
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Adding a circular vent directly under the discharge makes a world of difference. It’s cheap and easy. There are several threads and instructions on how to do it.
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06-15-2018, 07:28 PM
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#9
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I Think We're Lost!
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 22,195
THOR #8860
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__________________
"What: me worry?"
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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06-15-2018, 08:13 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
State: Arkansas
Posts: 7
THOR #11950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
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I saw that too. I am not sure it is something that I could do or want to do with mine.
Tried to add a pic of mine but without much luck. Here is a link to what mine looks like.
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-31059...ct_top?ie=UTF8
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06-16-2018, 02:35 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Forest River Forester 235
State: Indiana
Posts: 4,884
THOR #6826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
You mentioned adding a vent to the body of the AC??
While you were up in there with the cover off: did you make sure that airflow was going where it is supposed to?
You might be able to improve airflow, with some effective sealing techniques...
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I was very disappointed with the effectiveness of my single air conditioner and was about ready to tackle adding a second one. But I decided to check the airflow baffle first and found mine to be VERY out of place. I straightened it up and taped it in place with metal duct tape and it made an utterly astonishing difference. I ordered and will install the circular additional vent tomorrow. I think that’s about all I can do for the one unit. As the summer passes it should become clear if it was enough. At this point I think it might be!
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06-16-2018, 10:54 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Travato
State: Florida
Posts: 2,475
THOR #1765
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The other things you can do to use that unit most effectively is to purchase the pillows that fit onto the vent fan holes and I built a reflective cover out of cardboard, shelf liner paper and aluminum foil that fits inside the skylight of the bathroom. On a sunny day, a tremendous amount of heat came in from those two places. The last mod was a curtain that my wife made that stretches on a rod behind the seats. Coupled with reflective window inserts it kept a lot of heat from the front window. I also use that curtain when driving to create a smaller space for the dash A/C to cool. The curtain coupled with two 120v plastic fans mounted on the curtain tracks above the side windows plugged into a small inverter mounted under the dash between the seats, makes a big difference going down the road on a hot day.
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06-16-2018, 12:13 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1 KC's Big Box
State: Kansas
Posts: 2,171
THOR #3510
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Regarding what ONeill said... Ron agrees … for years we have used the vent pillows in all 3 vents, including the bathroom. It decreases the heat markedly.
Our a/c up front from the chassis/motor seems to work well .. I know of several people who have put up a curtain behind the front seats to confine the cool air to the cab when going down the road.
Re the house a/c … our Axis came with the upgraded unit .. dumb luck !! It pushes a lot of air … In additiona, we have two small fans we use to the air around the living room and bedoom. It is amazing what a couple fans will do.
That's all we got !
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Ron & Kay n KC too !
2001 Scamp 13'
'KC's Little Box'
Jeep Wrangler TJ
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06-17-2018, 11:41 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Tennessee
Posts: 297
THOR #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oneilkeys
Adding a circular vent directly under the discharge makes a world of difference. It’s cheap and easy. There are several threads and instructions on how to do it.
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[emoji106][emoji108]
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06-19-2018, 03:06 AM
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#15
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Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 29.4
State: California
Posts: 49
THOR #9328
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Circular AC Outlet
Added a circular outlet vent under the AC discharge in my Axis 25.2 today. 95 degrees outside with an interior temperature of 77. Was not able to achieve that much of a delta before the addition of the circular vent. More than pleased with the outcome.
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06-19-2018, 11:49 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 6,187
THOR #2121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kylecm
.....cut....
Mine is a ducted system. I have three vents aft of the unit, one vent on the unit, and two vents forward of the unit.
If I close all of the vents and open only the two forward, I get minimal airflow, but some air flow. If I close all of forward plus the one on the unit, I get decent flow from the two above the bed. At night I can open the back two and the bed area is sleep-able. If I close all vent except the forward vents there is no way anyone could use the above cabin bunk. It probably stays hotter than outside.
However, during the day the RV will only stay about 10 degrees under outside temperature.
I have read that I should pull down all of the walls in the over head cabin and insulate. Apparently Thor does not believe in wasting money there for the comfort of the client.
Any thing else I should do? Would replacing the current AC help?
Any thoughts?
Chuck
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Three thoughts:
I’d first ask Thor why they don’t offer a 15,000 BTU A/C as an option before seriously considering switching to a larger A/C unit. I suspect it’s because your generator is of lower power rating than most motorhomes, and you “may” be introducing a new problem under certain conditions.
One of the highest heat loads on any motorhome is the windshield, particularly new Class Cs with large slanted windshields. If you want to reduce heat gain most effectively, an outside cover that goes over entire windshield is by far the most effective, specially when parked in sun. Interior curtains and shades don’t stop heat from entering the RV, they convert sunlight to heat at curtain or shade. At that point hot air will rise and heat bed area over cab. The biggest drawback with the outside covers I’ve used over 20 years is that you can’t see out of windshield once installed. However, we like the extra privacy so that issue isn’t all bad. If the view out the front is nice, sometimes I’ll take it off during parts of day when not needed to block sun.
Lastly, from your description, it sounds like you may have an issue with duct to the front. I’d check that out or have it checked. When you close the others to the back of MH, you should be getting significant airflow to front. You may have a blockage, or disconnected duct, or who knows. I doubt dealer is correct on it being an engineering flaw, at least not entirely or from duct size standpoint.
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06-19-2018, 01:48 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Compass 24TB
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 27
THOR #10629
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ac issues
Hi
Before you spend a bunch of money, Double check and make sure your unit isnt just recycling the cool air. Look on the gemini/compass thread for this issue.
It won't take long just remove your filter/cover. Mine was literally cooling its self I put a partition in to separate inlet and outlet it made a huge difference
also partial blockage to vent system due to poor installation
Good luck
Kevin
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06-19-2018, 08:21 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Forest River Forester 235
State: Indiana
Posts: 4,884
THOR #6826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksgreene
Hi
Before you spend a bunch of money, Double check and make sure your unit isnt just recycling the cool air. Look on the gemini/compass thread for this issue.
It won't take long just remove your filter/cover. Mine was literally cooling its self I put a partition in to separate inlet and outlet it made a huge difference
also partial blockage to vent system due to poor installation
Good luck
Kevin
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Agree with this 110%. On mine there was a fiberboard baffle that is supposed to be vertical to separate the two air flows. But it’s just a friction fit for some reason and mine had been displaced to nearly horizontal by the way the installer had routed the wiring. I straightened it up and sealed it in place with metal duct tape. The difference/improvement in the overall performance of the air conditioner is at least 100%. I went from planning to add a second unit to not planning to with 20 minutes of no cost work. I also added the round vent to the cover as in the photo on this thread but I’ve not yet tested its impact.
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06-21-2018, 06:14 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Four Winds 31W
State: Michigan
Posts: 542
THOR #9522
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Got a link for the round vent? I have been removing the cover completely to let the blast straight down rather than through the ducts during the day. And putting back up at night to cool the bedroom.
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Pete and Carolynn Foss from Oxford, MI
2018 Four Winds 31W
1999 Aero Cub F-21 trailer
1977 Tioga 24 foot RV
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06-21-2018, 10:59 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Windsport 29M
State: Indiana
Posts: 3,692
THOR #5196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss
Got a link for the round vent? I have been removing the cover completely to let the blast straight down rather than through the ducts during the day. And putting back up at night to cool the bedroom.
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The round vent is available from Amazon, Camping World, and many other sources. Remove the four screws holding the ceiling cover in place and then remove the cover. Mark a spot in the center of the cover under where the AC exhaust is. Use the vent as a pattern and draw a circle where the vent will mount. Drill a 3/8” pilot hole and use a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade to cut out the circle you drew, take your time and keep the blade on the line, the plastic cuts very easily. Use four 1/2” #6 stainless panhead screws to mount the round vent. Reinstall the inside ceiling cover. You can goof off and still do the install in 30 min easily.
I’ve done several of these vents and they do make a difference. I leave the ducted vents open and use the round vent to direct air where I want it.
Here is the link to the vent on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095TEFNA...ing=UTF8&psc=1
If the link doesn’t work search for RV round air vent and then look for the vent made by JR Products.
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