A couple of questions

[kenstaples]

I bought my 2017 Hurricane last April. Now that I would use the cab heat, I find that it does not work - The fan blows, but when I turn the temp knob all the way clockwise to the red/heat setting I get no heat. I assume that the control is electronic and energizes an actuator that opens a hot water valve in the radiator system. Anyone have any troubleshooting ideas?
#2) There is a small momentary switch hanging by two wires from the driver's side of the front shade. It doesn't seem to do anything! Anyone know what this may be?
Thanks in advance for any help. I really enjoy reading the Forum (Thor, not Penthouse, but...) and it has been a big help for a relatively new RVer.

[16ACE27]

The hanging switch is for calibrating the shade positions - check your manual for the shade.

The heat/cool is controlled by a "blend door" which operates by vacuum. may be a loose/broke vacuum hose or actuator.

[Sappy2]

The temp control is a cable moving a blend door under hood at the air box. Have someone inside move the temp control while you observe the function under hood. If it is disconnected (not moving), then that would be the cause. If it is moving a lever on the heater box, then something else is happening.

[Lt Keefer]

A lot of Fords use vacuum to control the blend doors. The small tubes used in that system are excellent rodent snacks as well. Have you had any rodent problems? If so, look for chewed up vacuum lines under the dash.

[Sappy2]

Forgot to mention a few items related to no heat. This assumes that you have a Ford chassis.
1- Check the coolant bottle under hood and make sure that the engine coolant is not low (empty). If it is empty, this will cause a no heat condition, but this also means you need to find out why the coolant bottle is that low.
2-To check the mode switch, simply start the engine and place the blower on high. Move the mode switch to vent, then defrost, then floor. If the blower directs the air to the appropriate location, then that system is fine, nothing else to do.
3-Make sure that engine temp gauge reads normal after the engine is up to temperature. If not, this may be a stuck stat and the engine is not coming up to temp. This issue (stuck stat) generally does not cause NO HEAT, but rather low heat.
4-If all else looks fine, check that the heat door is moving (I mentioned that earlier). Just move the temp knob inside and the lever should move under hood via the cable. If not, find out why. If it does, then I suggest that you need a good tech to find out what is up.

Good luck!

[Travelin' Texans]

If the coolant level is low that will cause engine overheating, not cooling & would be indicated on the temperature gauge on the dash.
I've never had a tstat stick in the open position, always closed, which again will create an engine overheating, not cooling, issue very quickly.
I'm betting either by vacuum or electronically the blend door isn't functioning which is the chassis manufacturers issue not Thor's or your rv dealer.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

If the coolant level is low that will cause engine overheating, not cooling & would be indicated on the temperature gauge on the dash.
I've never had a tstat stick in the open position, always closed, which again will create an engine overheating, not cooling, issue very quickly.
I'm betting either by vacuum or electronically the blend door isn't functioning which is the chassis manufacturers issue not Thor's or your rv dealer.

The Evans Tempcon dash unit installed in the Thor Hurricanes was installed by Thor MC in plant 750. The F-53 stripped Ford chassis is not shipped with a heater or A/C unit. The engine is shipped with the A\/C compressor attached but it is not connected or wired for anything. Most RV dealers do not have an A/C specialist on staff, so it is best to search out an A/C repair shop to diagnose the problem.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

If the coolant level is low that will cause engine overheating, not cooling & would be indicated on the temperature gauge on the dash.
I've never had a tstat stick in the open position, always closed, which again will create an engine overheating, not cooling, issue very quickly.
I'm betting either by vacuum or electronically the blend door isn't functioning which is the chassis manufacturers issue not Thor's or your rv dealer.

I had a thermostat stuck open on a car a number of years ago. It was in the winter and the heater was worthless. The car didn’t have a temp gauge. Two repair shops insisted that thermostats only fail closed and wanted to focus on the heater core which was a huge project requiring removal of most of the dashboard. The thermostat was right on top of the engine and easy to get to so I thought it was worth starting there first. Sure enough it had failed and was a super simple fix.

[16ACE27]

Another drive-by. OP hasn't been back since he posted the question.

Same as his other thread/post 7 months ago.

[petef]

Beau388 has it right.

Mine would not work on MAX ( air output went to windshield) and another tie the blower motor went. Find the authorized dealer/repair on their website. Evans Tempcon

Originally Posted by Beau388

The Evans Tempcon dash unit installed in the Thor Hurricanes was installed by Thor MC in plant 750. The F-53 stripped Ford chassis is not shipped with a heater or A/C unit. The engine is shipped with the A\/C compressor attached but it is not connected or wired for anything. Most RV dealers do not have an A/C specialist on staff, so it is best to search out an A/C repair shop to diagnose the problem.

[The Gritz Carlton]

I remember years ago, lots of commercial trucks had a spigot type valve that would close the water supply to the heater core during the summer. Probably the same era you had a crank handle under the seat...but...do any commercial vehicles still use such a valve? Also, inasmuch as the entire front cab mechanics are built by THOR (not Ford), is it possible the water supply that's suppose to go to the heater core is not there or not connected properly? Do the hoses come from the factory (bare chassis) capped off?

[lwmcguire]

I thought the 35M was a Cummins 350hp

Has a different type control and has shut off valves at the engine

Since he has gone AWOL he must have it figured out