Solar / fridge

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Flwestcoast

If I do upgrades will first meter work? I can’t get Davids to link, blank page, could be operator error…

Now I am confused again on fridge. So it DOES have internal inverter? Best question for me to be clear is if I have NO house battery connected but I am hooked into shore power or genie running Will fridge work?��

Disregard how it works internally. The only thing we need to know is that it needs to run off 12 VDC power, so needs to be connected to batteries. That’s not to say that batteries can not be charged at same time that they power fridge. Solar, alternator, and or converter can charge batteries at same time fridge is being powered.

[DavidEM]

What exactly is your existing battery- make and model like the fridge? You can usually easily add another and wire it in parallel (+ to + and - to - with jumper cables) with the existing one. That will let you run your fridge overnight with no solar, generator or shore power recharging which is your basic need. A single 100 amp hour lithium would also do the job if you don't want to add another battery but that will cost $400+.

David

[Flwestcoast]

Originally Posted by Chance

Disregard how it works internally. The only thing we need to know is that it needs to run off 12 VDC power, so needs to be connected to batteries. That’s not to say that batteries can not be charged at same time that they power fridge. Solar, alternator, and or converter can charge batteries at same time fridge is being powered.

So if my battery is dead, gone, won’t hold a charge and I can’t replace immediately will fridge run off shore, genie, etc? Without a battery at all in the equation?

Yes, good reminder about the weight issue. This has occc of 833. Would never be able to use this coach as a live in…. I came from a 42’ tag DP that terrified my mom. I was thinking would break even with 2 lithium’s vs 1 heavy lead acid. Also another reason to try to do one solar panel vs multiple for more watts.

Any and all thoughts, advice much appreciated everyone!!

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Chance

Disregard how it works internally. The only thing we need to know is that it needs to run off 12 VDC power, so needs to be connected to batteries. That’s not to say that batteries can not be charged at same time that they power fridge. Solar, alternator, and or converter can charge batteries at same time fridge is being powered.

Well stated.

If it was my coach and I wanted it to perform for me, this is what I’d do:
- purchase two new 12v flooded lead acid batteries from Costco or Sams. Group 24 will probably fit in the space under the steps. They will last a minimum 3yrs as long as you check the water monthly. Only $80 x 2
- either add a 2nd 100w solar panel or (as OP suggested) remove current 100w panel & replace with 300w flex panel ($300) + upgraded solar controller ($50-100)

That way you will rarely need to worry abt your house batteries powering your 12V fridge where ever you are

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Flwestcoast

So if my battery is dead, gone, won’t hold a charge and I can’t replace immediately will fridge run off shore, genie, etc? Without a battery at all in the equation?

Yes, your converter will still power the DC buss so all DC loads, including the fridge, will continue to operate if SP plugged in or the generator is running.

[Flwestcoast]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Yes, your converter will still power the DC buss so all DC loads, including the fridge, will continue to operate if SP plugged in or the generator is running.

Ahhhhh forgot about the converter!!!

Thank you, relieved now I understand! Yayyyy!!!!

I need lithium. When and how is yet to be determined

THANK YOU ALL for your advice, knowledge and above all patience with me!!

Monica

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Flwestcoast

So if my battery is dead, gone, won’t hold a charge and I can’t replace immediately will fridge run off shore, genie, etc? Without a battery at all in the equation?

.....cut....

I had a single battery go really dead overnight a long time ago (essentially an open circuit) and the converter wouldn’t operate correctly until the battery was replaced. Newer equipment may be different, but I wouldn’t want to try running the electrical system without a battery in place to help regulate voltage. I know you probably don’t mean literally operating without battery in place.

Regarding weight, yes, a second Group 31 would add close to 60 pounds, so it may be possible to add an extra lead battery, but it’s a significant amount of your OCCC which is in short supply. It’s unfortunate Thor didn’t build the motorhome with 200 Ah of lithium capacity to start with.

[Flwestcoast]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

What exactly is your existing battery- make and model like the fridge? You can usually easily add another and wire it in parallel (+ to + and - to - with jumper cables) with the existing one. That will let you run your fridge overnight with no solar, generator or shore power recharging which is your basic need. A single 100 amp hour lithium would also do the job if you don't want to add another battery but that will cost $400+.

David

Oops missed this post.

I would rather go for a single cheaper lithium now and leave everything else until a bigger redo in future. Sounds like I can do that with my existing equipment, with the caveat my current controller will be slower snd less efficient. Or change controller now also. Am I correct in that? What is the model number/ make of your BMS you suggested?

[Flwestcoast]

Now THAT would have been fantastic!! Lithium from factory, I would have gladly optioned it that way if it had been an option����

[DavidEM]

If you want the cadillac of lithium batteries, buy Battleborns at $900 each, maybe cheaper with discounts. But the SOK, Amperetime, or Big Batteries are priced at half but don't have a cold weather charging BMS cutout, but otherwise good. Just don't try to charge them in freezing weather.

You current charger will work ok, it just won't charge as fast or as full, but no real problem otherwise.

David

[Flwestcoast]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

If you want the cadillac of lithium batteries, buy Battleborns at $900 each, maybe cheaper with discounts. But the SOK, Amperetime, or Big Batteries are priced at half but don't have a cold weather charging BMS cutout, but otherwise good. Just don't try to charge them in freezing weather.

You current charger will work ok, it just won't charge as fast or as full, but no real problem otherwise.

David

Thank you! I’m relieved my cockamamie plan might work out after all!
I think I’ll save Battleborns til future upgrade and go with the “lower priced” option so I won’t feel bad if they don’t last as long . I don’t have any plans or desire to be anywhere cold ( below 80).
Am I correct that it’s a simple take out wet cell and insert lithium then change setting on controller? Easy peasy if that’s all…

Thank you!!

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Flwestcoast

Thank you! I’m relieved my cockamamie plan might work out after all!
I think I’ll save Battleborns til future upgrade and go with the “lower priced” option so I won’t feel bad if they don’t last as long . I don’t have any plans or desire to be anywhere cold ( below 80).
Am I correct that it’s a simple take out wet cell and insert lithium then change setting on controller? Easy peasy if that’s all…

Thank you!!

That's all! Take the old one out and replace it with a lithium version like this one: https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Batte...%2C2212&sr=8-5.

And in S Florida if you don't have to worry about freezing temps, I am sure the cheaper ones will last as long as Battleborns.

David

[petef]

I have a 100 watt panel. Puts out 5 Amps, so a 10 hour sunny day you get 50 amp-hrs. If the fridge draws 75 amps per 24 hrs, that is 25 Amp-hr deficit without parasite you need at least 2 panels and 2 batteries with 200 Amp total capacity min

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by petef

I have a 100 watt panel. Puts out 5 Amps, so a 10 hour sunny day you get 50 amp-hrs. If the fridge draws 75 amps per 24 hrs, that is 25 Amp-hr deficit without parasite you need at least 2 panels and 2 batteries with 200 Amp total capacity min

Yes, but…

The 5 amps are only produced when the sun is directly overhead in a blue sky situation.
Anything other than that is less amps.

I’m in Southern California and I do not believe that I have ever generated 10 hours of 5 amp power from a single panel.

Right???

[DavidEM]

Right.

A horizontally mounted 100 watt panel will put out about 30 Ahs in sunny weather. Less in higher lattitudes or past summer, more if lower latitudes near summer solstice. But never 50 Ahs.

David

[cgeace29.3]

Does your fridge operate on D C power?

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by cgeace29.3

Does your fridge operate on D C power?

The OP has a 12v only fridge

[cgeace29.3]

Power(watts)=volts x amps
Typical solar panel puts out 100 watts
12v x 8.3 amps = 98.4 watts
So, 1 solar panel will power the fridge under normal operating conditions

Loaded fridge may require more power

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Flwestcoast

Ted,
Thank you for your reply��
I have the shunt in my Amazon cart, how simple is this to wire to battery. I have an irrational fear of auto batteries, again, irrational…

David,
Here is data sheet showing all equipment including fridge. Is this what you needed? Thank you again!


I am really hoping as the fridge has its own inverter I will be able to do a simple battery swap until ready/need more power throughout coach. My controller does have lithium setting.

Monica

It says it will cut off at 10.4 volts and won't restart till 11.7 volts in the specs

[Bill Johnson]

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...artShunt_2.png
This one is nice