12V Dash Power Outlet - No Power

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

2018 Thor ACE 30.3... Ok, I just burned the fuse for the Dash panel 12v outlets, that event has also disabled the step it is stuck in the out position. I was working on replacing the 12V power outlets with USB power outlets and accidently shorted the wires. When the short happened I heard a pop which to me indicates the affected fuse is near the dashboard. I am nearly certain the fuse is located in one of the two fuse panels located on the left side of the driver's foot well. One of the panels has a door and is clearly a Thor part, the second panel is mounted above the Thor labeled panel and is nearly inaccessible. Does anyone have any idea about which of these fuse boxes has the fuse I am looking for and what amperage it would be? I already looked at both fuse boxes, but I do not recall seeing a 30-amp fuse as someone else has observed. The documentation I can find on Thor web site for my unit is not much help either.

Thor came through with Schematics for the fuse panel that the Step is wired through. I have attached a photo of that panel "ACE dashboard fuse panel 1".
I circled the fuse that Thor identified as the step motor fuse. Unfortunately, that fuse is not damaged. I also checked every other fuse in that panel, and all appear sound.

There is a second fuse panel mounted above the first see "ACE dashboard fuse panel 2". I checked all the 15a and greater fuses in that panel and all appear sound as well. All this leads me to believe there is another fuse somewhere up the line in the circuit that feeds panel 1. Any ideas where to look for that fuse?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

Thor came through with Schematics for the fuse panel that the Step is wired through. I have attached a photo of that panel "ACE dashboard fuse panel 1".
I circled the fuse that Thor identified as the step motor fuse. Unfortunately, that fuse is not damaged. I also checked every other fuse in that panel, and all appear sound.

There is a second fuse panel mounted above the first see "ACE dashboard fuse panel 2". I checked all the 15a and greater fuses in that panel and all appear sound as well. All this leads me to believe there is another fuse somewhere up the line in the circuit that feeds panel 1. Any ideas where to look for that fuse?

That 20 amp "fuse" is a circuit breaker (see the CB designation?).

Did you check the fuses "hot" to verify there was 12 VDC supply to the fuse? That would tell you that there is no problem upstream if you have 12 VDC to the fuse block.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

That 20 amp "fuse" is a circuit breaker (see the CB designation?).

Did you check the fuses "hot" to verify there was 12 VDC supply to the fuse? That would tell you that there is no problem upstream if you have 12 VDC to the fuse block.

I identified a few other circuits that were also affected. All of them have elements that go through that panel. So, I started looking at the chassis fuse panel. Fuse 22 in the chassis fuse panel is a fuse for the "Cigar lighter" circuit. I hit paydirt, that fuse was burned. I replaced it and got the power port power back. However, that did not fix the problem with the steps not working. I believe the feedback from the short I caused must have burned a second fuse. Too dark to keep working tonight. I'll pick up tomorrow. What I don't understand is why some of the circuits from that panel still work. For example, the wipers also would not turn on yet when I attempted to start the wipers, I could hear the relay(s) on that panel click yet the wipers did not start. As far as I can tell from the circuit diagram there is only one 12v feed into the panel.

[MJC62]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Why would you need two hands for a test light/probe? The "tail" wire connects to ground and you probe the two test points on the back of the fuse to verify power to both sides (good fuse) or only one side (open fuse) or neither side (a different problem).

And I agree; getting to those fuse boxes is a PITA. Might be easier to zip off the four bolts for the seat with an electric ratchet or impact and just move the seat out of the way.

ACE gets the cigar! In tight spaces a 12 volt test light is the bomb.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

I got the Dashboard 12V power outlets powered again. Determined that Fuse #22 in the chassis fuse box had been burned when I replaced that I got the 12v power outlets back on-line. Before I replaced the fuse, I did a quick systems check and found that the steps, the windshield wipers, the mirror adjustment, and the jacks also have no power. Once I replaced the fuse in the chassis fuse box all I got back was the 12v power outlets. everything else is still not powered. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box near the floor in the drivers footwell and all the fuses in the Chassis fuse box and all Appeared good. I am now at a loss about where to look for more burned fuses. let alone a fuse that would affect all the circuits that are out.

Circuits still out:
windshield wipers
Mirror adjustment
the steps
the jacks

Any idea about where else to look? Perhaps a shorted relay or an inline fuse somewhere. One other thought is that these circuits are active only with the ignition switch on that is the only point of commonality I can think of. Is there an inline fuse in the ignition circuit?

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

I got the Dashboard 12V power outlets powered again. Determined that Fuse #22 in the chassis fuse box had been burned when I replaced that I got the 12v power outlets back on-line. Before I replaced the fuse, I did a quick systems check and found that the steps, the windshield wipers, the mirror adjustment, and the jacks also have no power. Once I replaced the fuse in the chassis fuse box all I got back was the 12v power outlets. everything else is still not powered. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box near the floor in the drivers footwell and all the fuses in the Chassis fuse box and all Appeared good. I am now at a loss about where to look for more burned fuses. let alone a fuse that would affect all the circuits that are out.

Circuits still out:
windshield wipers
Mirror adjustment
the steps
the jacks

Any idea about where else to look? Perhaps a shorted relay or an inline fuse somewhere. One other thought is that these circuits are active only with the ignition switch on that is the only point of commonality I can think of. Is there an inline fuse in the ignition circuit?

There is a 59a breaker by your chassis battery that is tripped.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

There is a 59a breaker by your chassis battery that is tripped.

What's a "59a breaker"? Did you mean 50 amp breaker?

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

There is a 59a breaker by your chassis battery that is tripped.

Well the answer was the tripped breaker in the engine compartment. Mine kind of looks like ACEs picture. The reset is yellow and the red ovel button is round and lime green. Everything is now up and running. Thanks everyone who helped me.

[Don_Atchley]

Fuse #70 in the front row. Big 30amp A1S type fuse.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

I can figure it out. the bigger problem is that my 2020s body can't do what my 1970s body did installing an FM stereo radio in my 1972 Fiat 850. I spent a good amount of time with my feet up by the headrest and head down the footwell for that. Strangely enough I am installing a new radio in the ACE. To do the test light thing I would need two hands unless someone has invented a one-handed test probe. I do not think I can manage to get into a position where I can use both hands to operate the test probe and still see what I am doing without also removing the driver's seat. With that in mind does anyone know if one person can remove and replace the seat bolts into the floor? Or, is a helper required to hold a wrench on the either the Bolt or the nut under the floor?

I just answered my own question about the seat pedestal mounting to the floor. The seat pedestal is attached to the floor with four bolts held in place by separate nuts over washers. You can see the nuts by looking up under the front wheel wells. To access, you will need to turn the wheel all the way left for the left seat bolts and all the way right for the right seat. So, to remove the seat a helper will be required to hold a wrench on the nut while the first person turns the rachet on the bolt under the seat.