12V Dash Power Outlet - No Power

[wileythor24]

There is no power to the dash 12V power outlet in our 2018 Axis 21.1. I have checked with and without the coach running as well as plugged in to shore power. I insprected the underhood chassis fuse box and the spot where a fuse should be and there spot was vaccant. I put a fuse in there and still no power. I was thinking that the the fuse box in the basement under the driver's side might be where the problem lies. But there is no diagram or labels for it. Any suggestions?

[DavidEM]

I had the same problem on my 2021 Axis. It was caused by the Axxera display dropping down and the attached radio shorting the outlet’s terminals. Since I couldn’t easily get to the fuse box (this coach has the new Ford V8), I just ran a new wire directly to the batteries.

This problem and fix is specific to Axis models near 2021. Thor’s installation of the larger display is a POS but they have fixed it in later years.

Your 2018 has the smaller display which may not cause this problem, but it might be worth checking. It could be as simple as the spade power supply terminals pulling off the outlet.

David

[Jimbo56]

If you’re talking about the 12v lighter socket, mine had the ground unplugged. I simply reached and found the ground loose, plugged it back in. The other outlet with 2 USB’s has one unplugged from the POS Axxera head unit. Since I never use the Axxera unit, and I’d have to take the dash apart I’ve left it be. Don’t need it.

[wileythor24]

Took the whole assembly out and there is no power going to the wires. I'll try looking thru the dash again.

[happy]

Hopefully you will find a power wire. We have added 12 volt lighter socket and USB power outlets by using Tap-A-Fuse connectors. There are most likely a few un-used hot fuse spots under the steering wheel in the drivers foot well fuse box. If you need to run a new power wire, that is a fairly easy place to find a power source.


If you do go to all the trouble that it takes to get to the battery, it may be worth while to run more than one wire in case you need it in the future.

[wileythor24]

I'll have to look again under the driver's side footwell for a fuse box. All I've found were the coach's box at the inverter, a box in the basement under the diver's seat and the one for the chassi in the engine compartemt. Any chance of getting a photo of the one under the steering well? Thanks.

[OldWEB]

I perused Ed Falkner's Vegas/Axis manual and the under hood Power Dist. Box could have 4 fuses for power points. Fuse #'s 65; 66; 67; and 72

EDIT: Ed's manual
Pg. 107

Good Luck

[wileythor24]

Looked at #72 underhood and found it empty and that's where I plugged in a 20A fuse I borrowed from my F150. I'll have to get back under there to check the other ones. Yes, I used Ed's manual to find that chassis box diagram. Really tough squeezing in there to see it.

[robertconley]

The fuse you are looking for is on the drivers side under the hood.
I will post a picture of it.
It is a 30 amp square fuse. I don't remember witch one it has been 2 yrs since I had the issue.

[robertconley]

Originally Posted by robertconley

The fuse you are looking for is on the drivers side under the hood.
I will post a picture of it.
It is a 30 amp square fuse. I don't remember witch one it has been 2 yrs since I had the issue.

This is the fuse box picture

[Capeteacher]

Found the fuse in the storage area under the drivers window. Don’t know the number but it is a 30amp yellow fuse

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

2018 Thor ACE 30.3... Ok, I just burned the fuse for the Dash panel 12v outlets, that event has also disabled the step it is stuck in the out position. I was working on replacing the 12V power outlets with USB power outlets and accidently shorted the wires. When the short happened I heard a pop which to me indicates the affected fuse is near the dashboard. I am nearly certain the fuse is located in one of the two fuse panels located on the left side of the driver's foot well. One of the panels has a door and is clearly a Thor part, the second panel is mounted above the Thor labeled panel and is nearly inaccessible. Does anyone have any idea about which of these fuse boxes has the fuse I am looking for and what amperage it would be? I already looked at both fuse boxes, but I do not recall seeing a 30-amp fuse as someone else has observed. The documentation I can find on Thor web site for my unit is not much help either.

[Capeteacher]

I have a Vegas. The fuse is in the box on the drivers side in the storage area. Don’t know if it is the same with you but it is worth a look.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Capeteacher

I have a Vegas. The fuse is in the box on the drivers side in the storage area. Don’t know if it is the same with you but it is worth a look.

The first storage area on the driver's side my 2018 ACE 30.3 is near the rear wheel. The Driver side compartments in order starting from the front wheel are. The jack pump, then the Propane tank, then the generator. All these compartments are open to the elements. I will still check but I think the fuse panel is one of the two in the driver's foot well. It is so hard to get to that I do not want to resort to pulling each fuse to check if I can avoid it.

[MJC62]

Dan, do you know how to check your fuses with a test light or multi-meter? (I prefer a test light for this task). I know it will be a PIA to access but better than pulling them. You can narrow it down some by amperage.
The step motor should be a at least a 20 amp yellow, or if the circuit is containing your dash power outlets too, maybe a 25 amp clear or 30 amp green.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by MJC62

Dan, do you know how to check your fuses with a test light or multi-meter? (I prefer a test light for this task). I know it will be a PIA to access but better than pulling them. You can narrow it down some by amperage.
The step motor should be a at least a 20 amp yellow, or if the circuit is containing your dash power outlets too, maybe a 25 amp clear or 30 amp green.

I can figure it out. the bigger problem is that my 2020s body can't do what my 1970s body did installing an FM stereo radio in my 1972 Fiat 850. I spent a good amount of time with my feet up by the headrest and head down the footwell for that. Strangely enough I am installing a new radio in the ACE. To do the test light thing I would need two hands unless someone has invented a one-handed test probe. I do not think I can manage to get into a position where I can use both hands to operate the test probe and still see what I am doing without also removing the driver's seat. With that in mind does anyone know if one person can remove and replace the seat bolts into the floor? Or, is a helper required to hold a wrench on the either the Bolt or the nut under the floor?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

I can figure it out. the bigger problem is that my 2020s body can't do what my 1970s body did installing an FM stereo radio in my 1972 Fiat 850. I spent a good amount of time with my feet up by the headrest and head down the footwell for that. Strangely enough I am installing a new radio in the ACE. To do the test light thing I would need two hands unless someone has invented a one-handed test probe. I do not think I can manage to get into a position where I can use both hands to operate the test probe and still see what I am doing without also removing the driver's seat. With that in mind does anyone know if one person can remove and replace the seat bolts into the floor? Or, is a helper required to hold a wrench on the either the Bolt or the nut under the floor?

Why would you need two hands for a test light/probe? The "tail" wire connects to ground and you probe the two test points on the back of the fuse to verify power to both sides (good fuse) or only one side (open fuse) or neither side (a different problem).

And I agree; getting to those fuse boxes is a PITA. Might be easier to zip off the four bolts for the seat with an electric ratchet or impact and just move the seat out of the way.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Why would you need two hands for a test light/probe? The "tail" wire connects to ground and you probe the two test points on the back of the fuse to verify power to both sides (good fuse) or only one side (open fuse) or neither side (a different problem).

And I agree; getting to those fuse boxes is a PITA. Might be easier to zip off the four bolts for the seat with an electric ratchet or impact and just move the seat out of the way.

The test probe device I was thinking of had two pointy ends like a multi meter. I would just touch pointy end to the to the opposite blades of the fuse there is a load on the circuit so the probe should light if the fuse is burned.

As for removing the seat is the female "nut" Inegrated into the framework under the seat or is there a separate nut that requires a helper to hold a wrench on?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

The test probe device I was thinking of had two pointy ends like a multi meter. I would just touch pointy end to the to the opposite blades of the fuse there is a load on the circuit so the probe should light if the fuse is burned.

As for removing the seat is the female "nut" Inegrated into the framework under the seat or is there a separate nut that requires a helper to hold a wrench on?

Just like a multimeter, but an alligator clip on the negative lead and connect it to ground.

Hard to say with your MH but generally the fore/aft slides have studs that go down through the swivel plate. The studs don't move so it's just a matter of removing the nuts.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Hard to say with your MH but generally the fore/aft slides have studs that go down through the swivel plate. The studs don't move so it's just a matter of removing the nuts.

Actually, I am talking about removing the seat and pedestal. On my 1995 Allegro the pedestal was bolted to the floor using a four nuts and bolts. To remove the seat and pedestal it was necessary to hold the nut with a wrench while turning the bolt with a ratchet.