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Old 03-05-2021, 02:02 AM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 29M
State: Texas
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THOR #11781
I don't think you can go wrong by following the manufacturer's owners manual. It also doesn't hurt that they sell the oil and filters at Wal Mart if you choose to do it yourself.

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Old 03-05-2021, 08:45 AM   #22
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Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
State: Florida
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Originally Posted by Jimenez61 View Post
Did you use full synthetic right away. Or did you use blend for a while before using full. I was told to use blend for about 2 oil changes and then change to full

Most engine builders will tell you that using conventional motor oil for at least the first 2000 miles or 30 minutes on a dynometer at low RPM is best for allowing piston rings to properly seat for minimal oil consumption. Here are the technical details:

Sealing the piston rings when breaking in an engine requires allowing the rings and piston skirt to carefully wear down the peaks (called asperities) on the cylinder wall.

Although a new or freshly honed cylinder appears smooth to the naked eye, it contains microscopic peaks and valleys. If the valleys are too deep, they collect excess oil, which burns during combustion and leads to oil consumption.

The sharp peaks, meanwhile, provide insufficient area to allow the rings to seat tightly. That means highly pressurized combustion gases can blow past the rings and into the crankcase, contaminating the oil and taking potential horsepower with it.

ďControlled wearĒ helps flatten the cylinder-wall asperities, providing increased surface area for the rings to seat tightly. The result is maximum compression (i.e. power) and minimum oil consumption.




In my case, Ford does not mandate full synthetic for the PowerStroke TurboDiesel. This is my second oil change so it had conventional heavy duty diesel motor oil from the factory and the same at its first oil change.

I will now likely do my own oil changes using full synthetic that meets the Ford spec specific to the PowerStroke.
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Old 03-12-2021, 12:18 AM   #23
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Model: ACE 27.2
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I have the F53 V10. Class A. Change it myself every year, or every 5K. Maybe somewhat conservative. I do it myself, with the Fumoto valve. Mobil 1, get it when itís on sale at Costco , $28/6 pack. Pretty cheap maintainance.
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Old 03-19-2021, 01:29 PM   #24
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Can you send me a link showing how to do the oil change procedure? I am a retired 60+ year old female with some mechanical experience. I, too, have a Chateau with the V-10 engine and love it!!
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Old 03-19-2021, 03:06 PM   #25
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Model: Chatea 31E
State: Maryland
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Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
On a related question, what about the transmission and rear differential?

For the newer 6-speed trans the owner's manual says change it at 150K miles. But the schedule for towing a trailer says every 30K miles. Mine is at 60K and the fluid still looks clean.
For the rear end, the regular maintenance schedule says change the fluid at 97,500 miles. The towing schedule says every 22,500 miles.

In this video the mechanic recommends dropping the pan every 60K miles to clean the magnet that captures metallic particles. So I'm going to do the full procedure, including dropping the pan and replacing the filter and cleaning the magnet.





The trans fluid capacity is over 17 qts, so the fluid and filter cost is over $140.
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Old 03-19-2021, 03:11 PM   #26
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Lambchop-Iíll figure out how to send the links. If you Google Ford F53 oil change some Youtube vŪdeos pop up. 2 things: Get a Fumoto valve (for the F 53, itís a F106 or F106n) and an oil filter wrench (either cap type or socket adjustable). One time purchases, total labout $35. Mobil 1 at Costco, $30, then one quart at Autozone. Once younave done it once itís a 15 minute job.
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Old 03-19-2021, 05:44 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Lambchop View Post
Can you send me a link showing how to do the oil change procedure? I am a retired 60+ year old female with some mechanical experience. I, too, have a Chateau with the V-10 engine and love it!!
There are several You Tube videos, this one doesn't have as much BS as some of the others

A couple of comments
Your filter and drain bolt may be too tight depending on who did the last oil change. Ford has torque specs and they aren't very tight!
Don't panic if the filter is TOO tight, there are simple ways to get it off

The proper drain pan bolt size is 16mm, the proper way to tighten the filter is.
Tighten several revolutions, till filter contacts motor then another 1/4 turn probably says it on the box

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