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Old 05-08-2021, 10:29 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Snks View Post
Hi,
I have a 2020 Thor 29j outlaw motorhome with a Norcold N7X fridge that since new intermittently shuts off with a five blinking trouble code. The code says the burner was on when it was not suppose to be. But after replacing many parts with no luck they recently put a brand new fridge in it to fix it and it’s still doing it.
The last trip out it went out over 20 times in four days.
I just checked it and it doesn’t appear level although I’m not sure if that could be the issue. Either the self leveling is off or the fridge is not level.
The dealer and Thor don’t seem to know what it is and it’s due back to the dealer in a couple days. They are going to look at the propane hoses. It has a good flame and supposedly the gas pressure at the gas valve checked out.
Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks
This may not help but absorption fridges are crap even when they work right. I had one that worked fine but the wife could smell propane exhaust when we would boon dock. Had J.C. Refrigeration in Indania replace the back side of our Norcold N611 with a 12v model with a real compressor like one in your home. It works great!!! Cools down the fridge from 80 degrees to 38 degrees in 3 hours. Not cheap but you won't regret it. Plus no fire hazard or fumes to deal with!!! Bob & Wendy Trice

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Old 05-09-2021, 01:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Thinking about it more....all of the other propane appliances demand a higher flow of propane than the refrigerator. Perhaps the regulator or line somewhere has enough restriction that only a really low flow is impaired. It doesn’t really make much sense though and since your fridge does work some of the time on propane a simple blocked line seems unlikely. If it’s not the flex line in the slide I think I’d look more closely at the regulator. Maybe it’s defective or has water in it or something.
I would agree maybe the regulator being the problem. Regulators are inexpensive to try and test with.
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Old 05-18-2021, 11:44 PM   #23
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Sooo...I wonder if there’s been any resolution to this interesting problem? Haven’t heard anything from the OP in a while.
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:04 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Sooo...I wonder if there’s been any resolution to this interesting problem? Haven’t heard anything from the OP in a while.
I agree, if you solve the problem or any problem it would be nice if they closed out the issue with a solution so as to help everyone.
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:16 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Sooo...I wonder if there’s been any resolution to this interesting problem? Haven’t heard anything from the OP in a while.
Hello,
I just got the motorhome back. The dealer said they are unable to duplicate the intermittent five code shut down on their lot. Which was very mild overcast temps in Santa Fe Springs, Ca.and close to sea level. The very frequent intermittent shut downs were occurring at 2700 ft and temps were in the 80’s. Some wind but at times not windy. It has shut down with the same five code flash many more times and at other places.

So I told them and emailed Thor six videos of it off with the code flashing. So they agreed to replace the regulator.

I just looked at the upper vent and I have a couple of questions on how it’s boxed in and vented. I will put some pictures in the next couple posts.
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:19 PM   #26
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I agree, if you solve the problem or any problem it would be nice if they closed out the issue with a solution so as to help everyone.
Hi,
I just replied above as I got the motorhome back a couple days ago.

I only hope it would be solved but I’m totally unsure. Please read the post above.

Thank you guys for responding. Pictures next post.
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:31 PM   #27
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So the very thin plywood that boxes in to make the upper wall vent looks a bit just thrown together.

There also appears to be a temperature sensor in the upper area of the fins. I wonder if the plywood is cut too high or to low it is also fairly close to the fins. Can anyone confirm if this looks correct or have a picture of their side vent fridge to compare.

If the plywood is cut too high wouldn’t that cause a potential to overheat and the temperature sensor also shown in the pics shut the fridge down while on propane.

I’m not sure why the pics are sideways.

Thanks, Steve
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Old 05-29-2021, 11:38 PM   #28
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Is the plywood height correct for proper venting.
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Old 05-30-2021, 12:59 AM   #29
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I’m not sure why the pics are sideways.
Cuz you take the pics sideways.
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Old 05-30-2021, 01:09 AM   #30
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See page 9 in the installation manual. It talks about using a fan when a upper wall side vent is used. Also shows the proper installation. What you want is for the natural air flow to go through the bottom and top coils which requires it being close to the wall or baffles installed.
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Old 05-30-2021, 01:16 AM   #31
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The manual I posted is a little screwy in the codes for the number of flashes 'seen'.
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Old 05-30-2021, 08:27 PM   #32
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See page 9 in the installation manual. It talks about using a fan when a upper wall side vent is used. Also shows the proper installation. What you want is for the natural air flow to go through the bottom and top coils which requires it being close to the wall or baffles installed.
Thank you for posting the installation instructions. I printed them out and it appears the plywood baffle is not cut correctly. It is suppose to be a 1/4” below the bottom of the condenser. It is 3/4” above it and there is a sensor in the pics that is likely tripping as it could get too hot.
I will send the pictures to Thor and see what they say. Luckily it’s easy fix.
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Old 05-30-2021, 09:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Snks View Post
So the very thin plywood that boxes in to make the upper wall vent looks a bit just thrown together.

There also appears to be a temperature sensor in the upper area of the fins. I wonder if the plywood is cut too high or to low it is also fairly close to the fins. Can anyone confirm if this looks correct or have a picture of their side vent fridge to compare.

If the plywood is cut too high wouldn’t that cause a potential to overheat and the temperature sensor also shown in the pics shut the fridge down while on propane.

I’m not sure why the pics are sideways.

Thanks, Steve
If it doesn't overheat on AC it won't overheat on propane. The same heat is required to make the fridge work, the only difference is the source of the heat.
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Old 05-30-2021, 09:35 PM   #34
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If it doesn't overheat on AC it won't overheat on propane. The same heat is required to make the fridge work, the only difference is the source of the heat.
Well it’s been to the dealer so many times with the same issue and not getting fixed. The least they could do is be sure about following the instructions and going from there. Look over the whole thread this is the second fridge with the same problem. About anything else has been accounted for but the regulator and the venting.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:09 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by taylorbob1 View Post
Fridge vent cooling fan...
I don’t have one of these but others on the Forum have installed similar
Also, some use the small box, battery powered, cooling fan to circulate the absorption fridge internal air.
I will tell you that the DC12v powered dual fans are the way to go. They keep the entire box cold and are worth the small price. I had my Norcold N611 gas/electric system replaced with a 12v system with a residential type compressor installed by J.C. Refrigeration in Indiana and it's the best upgrade I have done on my 2018 Thor Windsport 29m, and I've done A LOT OF UPGRADES!!!!!
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:14 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Snks View Post
Thank you for posting the installation instructions. I printed them out and it appears the plywood baffle is not cut correctly. It is suppose to be a 1/4” below the bottom of the condenser. It is 3/4” above it and there is a sensor in the pics that is likely tripping as it could get too hot.
I will send the pictures to Thor and see what they say. Luckily it’s easy fix.
I was looking at the wire schematic on page 20 in the owners manual and it shows where an optional condenser fan (*F) could be wired in. There is also an optional freezer blower (*S) that I have not heard of before.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:25 PM   #37
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I was looking at the wire schematic on page 20 in the owners manual and it shows where an optional condenser fan (*F) could be wired in. There is also an optional freezer blower (*S) that I have not heard of before.
Doesn't apply to me with a residential fridge, however, over on the Jayco forum some folks are posting about swapping out the boards in their Norcolds to make them more efficient especially in warmer climates such as the Southwest.

Here is a link. to the thread. as stated Doesn't apply to me so I'm not sure whether or not it is relevant to you.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ent-87287.html
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Old 06-05-2021, 10:51 PM   #38
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So here is some good news so far. I just came back from a trip from the desert floor around 2500ft. to the mountains around 7,000 ft. and it didn’t shut off once.
So might it have been the regulator? I am hoping it’s fixed for good.

But the biggest shut downs where when camped it the high desert. It won’t be some time before I get out there to see as it’s too hot to camp out there.

Thank you all for the great suggestions. Fingers crossed.
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Old 05-21-2023, 05:15 AM   #39
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Thought I would post after a couple of years later. Somehow the fridge stays on now and worked it’s bugs out. I did find a tiny leak at the fitting for the regulator the dealer replaced. I don’t think that was the issue that caused the fridge to go out.

I think it may have been something in the propane line that worked it’s way through.
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Old 05-21-2023, 01:42 PM   #40
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Thought I would post after a couple of years later. Somehow the fridge stays on now and worked it’s bugs out. I did find a tiny leak at the fitting for the regulator the dealer replaced. I don’t think that was the issue that caused the fridge to go out.



I think it may have been something in the propane line that worked it’s way through.
Thanks for the follow-up. I'm late to the discussion but I've read the whole thread, what a saga. Since you're happy with your rig and still having on, allow me to add a suggestion. This YouTube RV tech does a great job of teaching while showing his fixes. This one is for adding a baffle for better airflow and better efficiency. This is the way the factory SHOULD HAVE done it. (I can't find the "link" button)
https://youtu.be/DxUnW7gudEE
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