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Old 03-02-2024, 07:05 PM   #1
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THOR #29545
2023 Axis 24.1 - all chassis items are dead

2/29 - Went in the unit (connected to shore power - 15A) and tried to operate the front shade with no success. Checked everything else and tried to start the engine. No dashlights, dings, clicks, or anything. Tried to aux start unit with and without the generator.

3/1 - Explored the interwebs for solutions. Could not directly access the chassis battery, so disconnected everything else and tested voltage on line side of solenoid below the fuse compartment - 13+/-volts, so battery is good, correct?

Called Thor and they referred me to Ford since it is chassis related. Talked to Ford and they explained that they would send someone to jump start and for me to call back, if it was not successful. The technician came and could not jump the battery - no access to the battery that he could determine. Having looked for the battery in the compartment, I understood.

Called Ford back and they want me to call a ford truck facility, arrange an appointment and then call them to set up the tow. I'm fine with that, if that is what it takes. it does seem, however, that it may be a blown fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.

Does anyone have a clue how to access that fuse box? I have seen threads on that, but saw no real solutions. Someone has had to access those fuses at some point.

Of course the root question, if it is a fuse, is what caused it to blow?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

David

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Old 03-02-2024, 07:15 PM   #2
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THOR #3723
Jump yourself

There's a switch on the center console that basically jumpers your house batteries to your engine battery. You have to press and hold the button for a few seconds, and simultaneously turn the ignition key. The switch connects the batteries via a relay.

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Old 03-02-2024, 07:17 PM   #3
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Thanks, but that switch is dead as well. Should have specifically mentioned that. The gen start switch and the cab lights are the only two dash items that work.
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:18 PM   #4
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The chassis battery is accessible by taking off the slide table in front of the passenger seat and cutting through an inch or so on each side of a piece of plywood underneath the table.

The fuse box is on the drivers side in the engine compartment outboard of the antifreeze fill nozzle. Looks to me that you can only access it by removing the front hood.

But I don’t see a connection to your starting problem. You assume that the 13+ volts indicates that the chassis battery is good, but you may be reading something else, maybe the house battery. Check at the battery terminals once you have removed the plywood.

David
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:20 PM   #5
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If Iím not mistaken to access the chassis battery on an Axis you have to remove the passengerís computer table. A bunch of posts on the forum on changing that battery.
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by EA37TS View Post
If Iím not mistaken to access the chassis battery on an Axis you have to remove the passengerís computer table. A bunch of posts on the forum on changing that battery.
I have seen some of those and a couple on removing the wheel to access the battery. Makes my surprise at having to take out the headlight of my Olds Silhouette in the '90's to replace the battery seem like nothing.
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:37 PM   #7
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THOR #13932
If I read you correctly, the gen start button works.
If so;
START THE GENERATOR

And
Do,,not attempt to access the battery through the wheel well. It's a valueless try and I believe a confusion between f53 and e350/450 chassis.
Remove the desk, jump the battery.

There's a very recent thread about all this. Look in posts from the last week.
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:40 PM   #8
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I did start the generator and held the aux start down for an extended period, stil no success.
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Old 03-02-2024, 07:46 PM   #9
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Let the generator run and check your dash lights after 15 minutes or so.
Also,
There are breakers mounted to the wall of the understep batteries(if yours are under step). Typically mounted on the rear wall of that supposed battery box. If they are there (mine has three breakers) make,sure the flag is pushed up/in and not waving. You may have to get on the ground, look up, and reach in a narrow space between batteries,and rear wall.

To further Madden:
One of,my damn breakers is mounted ON TOP of the other making it all but impossible to feel or see.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:08 PM   #10
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I may be asking the obvious here:

Have you checked the STORE/USE switch? And then if/when you're running the generator, it would be a good time to check all the other switches.

You stated you were hooked up to shore power, so I'm looking for things in the system that would prevent that from charging your rig. If you were able to start the generator...then the house batteries are charged. It's just not getting to the rest of the rig.

The breaker by the house batteries was already pointed to, so the next item would be the STORE/USE switch.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:14 PM   #11
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I don't touch the store/use switch as it has no value to me, but my spousal unit trying to turn on the awning lights would sure give it a flick.

That switch is a very good call and is a good candidate for culprit.
(Mine is in the stairwell on your entering left)
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Atchley View Post
I may be asking the obvious here:

Have you checked the STORE/USE switch? And then if/when you're running the generator, it would be a good time to check all the other switches.

You stated you were hooked up to shore power, so I'm looking for things in the system that would prevent that from charging your rig. If you were able to start the generator...then the house batteries are charged. It's just not getting to the rest of the rig.

The breaker by the house batteries was already pointed to, so the next item would be the STORE/USE switch.
USE/STORE switch has nothing to do with the chassis battery. It only disconnects the house battery bank from the house DC buss.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
USE/STORE switch has nothing to do with the chassis battery. It only disconnects the house battery bank from the house DC buss.
I was thinking that if USE/STORE was off, and something had drained the chassis battery...this might cause their symptoms.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:22 PM   #14
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But,
If chassis went dead due to phone charger or somesuch, and the use store is off, will a Shore/gen charge or aux-start work?

I don't know. Seems it would/wouldn't work as I asked....

While pulling the desk off to reach the chasiss battery mostly sucks, I did mine preemptively in my shop so I wouldn't be doing it at some burger-doodle in Cairo Illinois at 10pm.

Pull the desk, jump start the vehicle, and add the jumper lugs(I posted pictures)mentioned this week in a similar thread. Post 73 in my signature link has pictures of my 24.1 access door and how I remounted it.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:38 PM   #15
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THOR #29545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Atchley View Post
I may be asking the obvious here:

Have you checked the STORE/USE switch? And then if/when you're running the generator, it would be a good time to check all the other switches.

You stated you were hooked up to shore power, so I'm looking for things in the system that would prevent that from charging your rig. If you were able to start the generator...then the house batteries are charged. It's just not getting to the rest of the rig.

The breaker by the house batteries was already pointed to, so the next item would be the STORE/USE switch.
Yes, the switch is in Use position. I had not noticed the breakers in the house battery box, that's good to know. They were okay.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
But,
If chassis went dead due to phone charger or somesuch, and the use store is off, will a Shore/gen charge or aux-start work?

I don't know. Seems it would/wouldn't work as I asked....

While pulling the desk off to reach the chasiss battery mostly sucks, I did mine preemptively in my shop so I wouldn't be doing it at some burger-doodle in Cairo Illinois at 10pm.

Pull the desk, jump start the vehicle, and add the jumper lugs(I posted pictures)mentioned this week in a similar thread. Post 73 in my signature link has pictures of my 24.1 access door and how I remounted it.
The switch had been in off for about a week. I am going to look at the fuses in the engine compartment tomorrow, when I have more time.

Thanks for the input and ideas.
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Old 03-02-2024, 09:47 PM   #17
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THOR #20220
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
The chassis battery is accessible by taking off the slide table in front of the passenger seat and cutting through an inch or so on each side of a piece of plywood underneath the table.

The fuse box is on the drivers side in the engine compartment outboard of the antifreeze fill nozzle. Looks to me that you can only access it by removing the front hood.

But I donít see a connection to your starting problem. You assume that the 13+ volts indicates that the chassis battery is good, but you may be reading something else, maybe the house battery. Check at the battery terminals once you have removed the plywood.

David
I see a 100 amp fuse blue knob when I lift the hood.
Right in front of battery area
Good luck
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Old 03-03-2024, 03:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Hokieute View Post
I did start the generator and held the aux start down for an extended period, stil no success.
This literally just happened to me last week. I had to jump the chassis battery. You take the desk on the passenger side off and you can access the battery. Google it there are a few good YouTude videos. Itís really simple. Then you can hook up cables and jump start it. I used a beefy jumpstart battery. Started right up.

Lisa
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Old 03-09-2024, 08:28 PM   #19
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Similar problem turned out to be a solenoid stuck in off position. We jumped it from a nearby converter.
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Old 03-10-2024, 02:49 AM   #20
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Had trouble with my chassis battery constantly going dead. can get to positive post from front of RV. but trouble with back --negative. Ended up taking a copper jumper like you use to connect golf cart batteries--skinning and twisting the middle together. Removed a screw (bolt) that is at the radiator. Put the other two ends of the jumper under the bolt and tighten down--thus creating my ground (negative). Now it is easier to jump.
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